This tutorial explains how to build a rope tree swing in the backyard for the kids. My daughter really enjoys it, however I made it large and strong enough to seat two adults.
Materials:
- Pressure treated 2in x 8in board, 4 feet in length
- 5/8in diameter hollow-core braided polypropylene rope, ~100 feet length.
- 3″ corrosion resistant deck screws, Qty: 10
- Sanding block
- Course and fine grit sandpaper
- 2-7/8in by 5/16in chain link, Qty: 2
- Gorilla Wood Glue
- Roll of kite string
- Oak tree
A Note about Rope Strength
The 5/8 inch braided hollow-core polypropylene rope I used in this project has a safe working load of 294 lbs. The “working load” of a rope is about 1/5 of it’s total tensile (or breaking) strength, and the tensile strength of this rope is 1400 lbs. In the next photo, the rope appears to be 3/4 inch diameter; under load it thins to 5/8 inch diameter. The only difference between the two ropes here is the color.
It’s important to use a large diameter braided rope for the swing. The use of a smaller diameter and/or twisted rope will be too slippery on the chain link and may cause the seat to tip over.
Nylon rope would be an upgrade over the hollow-core braided polypropylene rope used here because it’s a stronger (and more expensive) material.
A nice overview is of twisted and braided ropes is at Rocky Mount Cord Company, Inc.
Tools
- Cordless Drill/Driver
- Saw
- Carpenter’s square
- Pencil
- Tape measure
- Carpenter’s level
- Butane Lighter
High Tree Branch
Building the tree swing presented a bit of challenge because my 24 foot extension ladder wasn’t tall enough to reach the high and strong branch on the oak tree. Normally, I’d tie the rope to the tree branch using a Swing Hitch knot, but it requires putting your arms around the branch to tie the knot. Since I couldn’t reach the branch, I had to figure out a way to tie off the lines from the ground. I solved this problem with kite string and a Running Bowline knot.
Rope Tree Swing Construction
Building the Tree Swing Seat
- The seat is a 36 inch length of 2in by 8in pressure treated lumber.
- The seat reinforcements are a 4in length of 2×8.
- Mark and saw the 36 inch long bench seat and the two 4 inch reinforcing blocks.
- Bevel (i.e. round off) front and rear edges of the bench seat with sandpaper. This is so the edges of the board won’t cut into your thighs when sitting.
- Attach the reinforcing blocks to the bottom ends of seat with Gorilla Glue and the five 3 inch wood screws. Notice the screw pattern is laid out to avoid the drill holes for the rope.
- Locate and drill the 3/4 in holes for the rope 2 inches from the outside end of the seat and 1-1/2 inches from the front and back sides. Here’s a closeup of the reinforcing block attachment and holes.

Seat Bottom Reinforcements and Stopper Knots
Tie the Rope to the Tree Limb
As described in The Challenge section, the tree limb was too high for my ladder and climbing the tree was possible. The solution for attaching ropes to the tree limb is a Running Bowline knot, a type of slipknot. A benefit of a slipknot is the rope won’t strangle the tree limb as it grows.
Not any knot will do when personal safety is at stake. The knots I used in this project are:
- Very strong
- Secure
- Won’t significantly weaken the rope
To reach the limb, I tied a small rock to the end of the kite string and threw the rock over the tree limb, letting the string run off the spool. This took a couple of tries to get it where I wanted.
I then tied the kit string to the 5/8 rope and pulled it back up over the limb. (You’ll need a double length of rope to do this!)
Next, I tied a Running Bowline in the rope and pulled it up snug against the tree limb, all from the comfort of standing safely on the ground. Here’s the result:

Running Bowline Knot around Tree Limb
Do the same for both ropes:

Running Bowline Knots
Cut each rope hanging from the tree limb off at ground level – remember it took a double length to get it over the tree limb and set the Running Bowline knot.
This project is continued in Part 2.
Enjoy,
Bob Jackson
Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com Reproduction strictly prohibited.






Keep it up! Thank you for these good moments reading your blog. Just subscribed to your feed.
Sehr gute Seite. Ich habe es zu den Favoriten.
Thank you!
I searched many sites looking for clear directions that I am my 2 girls could follow. We now have a wonderful swing in our front yard oak. This was a great Mommy-Daughter project!
Hey man awesome project. Very descriptive. I had planned on hanging a swing from a very high branch and had thought of using the Running Bowline but had no idea how to tie it or what it was called. This was surprisingly very helpful, great resources on those knots.
We made this tree swing over the weekend. Your instructions were very detailed and easy to follow. Our problem is the swing does not swing straight. We think it might be because the only branch we have to use is not parellal to the ground-it has a fairly steep incline. Do you have any suggestions or have you encoutered a problem like this? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
Hi Tiffany,
I’m pleased you found the my instructions helpful. If your swing isn’t swinging straight, the seat probably isn’t level left-to-right as when sitting in the swing. This makes one side “heavy” and the swing will be off balance and tend to move toward that side. If you don’t have a carpenter’s bubble level, eyeballing it should be close enough because great precision isn’t needed here.
To correct the problem, you’ll need to adjust one (1) seat bottom stopper knot on the low side to raise and level the seat. Again, only a single stopper knot needs to be adjusted.
The tree branch and the ground for my swing are both uneven as you can see in the project photos, but the seat is level so it swings straight.
If you’re still having problems, post a picture of your swing at http://tinypic.com/ (it’s free and requires no account registration) and reply with the link to the photo so I can see what you’re doing.
Thanks,
Bob Jackson
In making our tree swing I found your website to be helpful…. Thank you
You Rock! I followed your directions exactly and have a great swing! You made it so easy!
Everyone is amazed when they see it because the limb is way up!
And the kids love it…can’t get them off it!
Thanks!
Thanks – I appreciate the compliment!
Tell everyone you climbed it like a coconut tree to reach that high limb!

Can solid core rope be used instead of the hollow core?
A weather resistant solid core rope will work if rated for the same tensile strength.
Many, many thanks! I reached folk-hero status with a little local family by giving them a swing on Independence Day, on a branch 25 feet up in an oak tree. The plans and the knots worked like a dream. Very easy to follow. We had the whole clan on the patio watching the assembly. And when I cut the dangling ropes about 5 feet off the ground . . . they were absolutely agape. It was great fun. I said that the girls could just use a ladder to climb on! They made so much fun of me . . . until I finished the project with the chain links and the bottom section of rope. We all appreciate your help.
You’re welcome. Thanks for the success story!
I just put up our swing today. Thank you! Your directions, especially the knots, were spot on. My four and one year-old are loving their swing. Best of all, I did it myself!
Wonderful! You’re welcome!
Hello Bob, I have wanted a tree swing in my back yard for EVER. Problem is, I don’t have a big tree. Darn it. I thought a great tree replacement would be a light pole that are used for traffic lights. I have tried to get information about the light poles and have found dead ends everywhere. I live in Minnesota. I think the light poles are aluminum? I think they could be very strong if they were secured to the ground with footings and decorative pillar looking bases. What do you think? am I nuttier than normal? Could you help me accomplish a dream so I don’t have to wait to grow a tree?
Thanks much,
Julie Schnell
I think I can help with your dream. Please see the new section titled “What if you don’t have a Tree?” at the end of Part 2. Send me a picture if you decide to build the rope swing support frame.
Thanks,
Bob
I can’t thank you enough for such great directions! I am a Marine Corps spouse with a husband deployed to Afghanistan. I just moved my family to a new house and a giant tree in our front yard was begging for a swing. I followed your directions to a T. (I even printed them and set them on a table in the yard next to me as I was trying to tie the knots!) You made it so easy and it’s so well put together. My neighbors are truly impressed – I am super proud of myself – and my daughter, age 5, is over the moon about the swing! Thank you, thank you from a mom who couldn’t be happier about the memories you just helped give to my children.
I am humbled and so pleased you were able to build the swing! Please send a photo when your husband gets back with the family by the swing and I’ll post it here.
Thank you!!! I just sent this page to my husband and we will be taking on this project next weekend!! I can’t wait to watch the kids enjoy the swing…and plan to have a “witch” sitting on it for Halloween. How fun!!!
Hi Bob,
Great plans, many thanks. Even works when you build it in the UK :-)
My kids and grandkids think fantastic (and why didn’t I build it years ago !!!)
If the weather’s good we’ll use it in some photos for my youngest daughters wedding next Saturday.
Cheers
Hey – Send some photos and I’ll post it here!
Thanks,
Bob
Hey Bob,
Awesome job. Love the site. I thought I might suggest a possible problem which could be causing some of the swings to not swing straight, other than what you have already stated. An easy mistake to make, that can be easily hidden depending on the height of the branch, is having the Running Bowline Knots around the branch in different directions. One tied one way and the other tied the in the opposite direction. This can cause the knots to grab the branch differently resulting in a twisting motion causing the swing not to swing straight. Hope this makes sense and is helpful.
In God we trust,
Fred
For this project, do you have to use gorilla glue or will any wood glue work?
Any waterproof wood glue should be fine.
Hi there
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I was trying to follow and build a tree swing but I ran into a cpl issues and I was wondering if you’ll have time to respond.
1. I bought the pressure treated wood a cpl months ago from Lowe’s. It was lying in my garage since I didnt quite get around to work on this project till now. Today, when I tried to attach the the seat reinforcements using the screws, the wood would break (the pieces also seem a little bent). Why do you think that should happen ? So I was wondering that I should forego the seat reinforcement step completely. Do you think that poses any safety issues ?
2. I bought one rope (as indicated in your instructions). If I cut the rope, it may have threads that hang out. Is there a way to infuse them together ? Or should I have bought two ropes.
Thanks much,
Rajeev
Pressure treated wood has a very high moisture content from the chemical preservatives and shrinks as it dries – this is what caused the warping and cracking in your board. I would start over with a new boards. Since new pressure treated boards can literally be soaking wet, lay them in a dry location with plenty of air exposure on all sides for a week to let the surface dry.
I recommend installing the seat reinforcements for the reasons you stated – it distributes the load and reduces the likelihood of a crack causing a failure, pinch or splinter. The Gorilla Glue does wonders to form a solid bond and it’s water (slightly damp) activated. The wood screws provide the clamping force for the glue and additional reinforcement. You can always drill 1/8″ pilot holes for the wood screws if strain relief is needed to prevent dry wood from cracking.
Fuse (melt) the loose ends of synthetic rope together to prevent fraying by waving the rope end over the flame of a butane lighter. Heat the rope slowly so it doesn’t catch fire.
Thanks for your quick response Bob. I guess I will start with the new boards then. Another question though : wont they warp after the swing is made and hung ? Why is it important to use pressure treated wood for this project. I have never done a woodworking project before so I guess these may be too basic questions – I apologize.
Also, I could not find a drillbit which will drill a 3/4inch hole so I went to the guy incharge of hw at Sears and asked him how that can be done. He suggested I buy a 3/4inch spade bit (which I did). We shall see how that goes.
Pressure treated wood will last outdoors for many years. An untreated board wouldn’t last many seasons.
Long thin boards that are not fastened down or stacked properly tend to warp the most, it also depends on which section of the log the board was cut. A 3 or 4 foot 2×6 board shouldn’t noticeably warp. The seat reinforcements will help stabilize the board.
#2 pressure treated southern pine is the most common lumber. When buying boards, I always look down the length of the board for twists, too many or large knots, sections of bark, etc. I often reject five or six boards for each one I put on the cart and take to the checkout counter.
Yes – use a 3/4 inch wood spade bit.
Hi Bob, How far apart should the ropes be on the tree limb?
The ropes should ideally be spaced equal to the width of the seat attachment.
I’ve search all over for 5/8″ braided hollow core polyester rope. Where can you buy it? I’ve tried EVERYWHERE!!!!! Please help. THanks
I see you’re in the Birmingham, AL area. Call up one of the Home Depot’s in town and ask for “Crown Bolt 5/8 in. x 200 ft. Solid-Braid Poly Rope Black“, Store SKU # 544774. It’s about $100 for a 200 foot roll and also sold by the foot cut to length.
Thanks so much, Bob. I will try HOme Depot. I tried Lowes, and couldn’t find it online at Home Depot, but I’ll phone them and see.
And I’ll let you know if it works.
Thanks,
Kelly
Oh-h-h-h! I was looking for polyester, instead of polypropolene. Sorry! I found it with no trouble at Lowes. Thanks!!!!
Built this swing over the weekend. I’ve gained superhero status with my kids (and my wife too).
Excellent! Thanks for the note!
Hi Bob, I am planning on building the swing soon. I looked on the Home Depot website for the “Crown Bolt 5/8 in. x 200 ft. Solid-Braid Poly Rope Black” per your recommendation in an earlier post. I am a little concerned about some of the warnings regarding the rope.. thoughts? Thanks!
Warning: Avoid using a knot; splicing is preferable. Knots reduce the strength of the rope up to 50%. Do not use this product for overhead lifting, support of human weight or athletic equipment, or other situations where personal safety or valuable property can be endangered. The working loads shown should never be exceeded. Additional care must be exercised when using this product under shock (stress, jerk) conditions. These conditions can reduce working loads by as much as 33%. Never stand in line with rope under tension; such a rope, particularly nylon rope, may recoil (snap back).
The rope specifications state a “Working load limit of 294 lbs”. Let’s assume the knots reduce the working load by 50% as cautioned, leaving a de-rated working load of 147lbs. Since there are two ropes supporting the swing carrying 1/2 the load each, the swing working load is back up to 294lbs or something in that area. Let’s add an additional safety factor and call it 200lbs actual working load for the swing.
Most kids will weigh well under 100lbs, so the 200lbs actual working load is adequate. After mowing the yard for 2 hours last weekend, I relaxed sideways in the tree swing with my feet propped up on the inverted V seat ropes – it’s actually comfortable this way. The 3-1/2 year old ropes supported my 220lb frame just fine and looked as good as the day I built the swing.
You can use a thicker / heavier rope with a greater working load or purchase the really high quality & expensive mountain climbing rope to suit your preferences.
Bob,
I have a swing that doesn’t swing! Go figure.
I really appreciate the clear direction you’ve provided here and have built a swing exactly to your specifications. My kids love it–if I push them. The trouble is, there’s seems to be no way to “pump” on the swing and get it to reach any kind of height. My kids can’t do it and neither can I.
I have a huge oak tree that I’ve attached my swing to. The branch is almost exactly horizontal and probably 12″ in diameter. The rope spacing on the branch is about 3′ apart. The distance from the bottom of the branch to the seat is about 20′. The seat is about 1’6″ off the ground. The rope is 5/8″ braided poly. The rope is attached to the branch with a running bowline knot.
No amount of “pumping” will cause the swing to reach any kind of height. I’ve never experienced this before on a swing. The knots on the tree limb don’t seem to be moving and the limb is also not moving under the weight.
I’m perplexed. I also admit that physics was not one of my best subjects in school.
Please help me and my kids with this wonderful swing.
I’m happy to provide pictures, video, or anything else which will be helpful in diagnosing our problem.
Many thanks.
Gary
My kids would get going by pushing backwards off the ground, or walk backward then pick up their feet to swing forward. But my daughter was already 10 years old and long legged when I built the swing.
I’m guessing your children are much younger since the seat is only 1-1/2 feet off the ground. What’s probably preventing the “pumping” action from working is a combination of limited body weight and the A frame rope seat attachments working against the pumping motion. Pumping means leaning way back and then forward to shift the center of gravity away from the seat to cause motion. Doing this in rhythm makes this swinging action. The A frame rope seat attachments are very stable and tend to limit the shift in center of gravity compared to single rope on each side of the seat. In combination with a small child that has limited height and body weight, I can see pumping would a challenge.
Try this:
Drill a hole in the center of the seat between the two existing rope holes for a single rope attachment point at each end. This will make the seat less stable (and prone to spilling the little ones), but it will make pumping much easier because smaller shifts in the center of gravity will have more effect. If this works, plug up the outer rope attachment holes so someones finger doesn’t get broken.
The knots on the tree limb shouldn’t move by design, this protects the bark so it doesn’t rub off and kill the limb.
Finished this swing today.
First my kids painted some pine boards for the seat. I chose to glue and screw two 1×6 boards together and cut them to length. This gave two equal sides to the swing so I can turn it around later if needed.
I chose 5/8 braided nylon black rope and used the bowline at the top.
I works great. Thanks for the great posting.
Great write up, Bob! You’ve helped me get my rope swing project off the ground. I have a single person hammock swing that I’ll be attaching to a branch about 40 ft. off the ground to a mature oak branch in my woods, over a stream. Getting the guide line and rope over this branch will be a major challenge, but assuming I can get it over, I’ll be using your suggested double running bowline knot to secure the single line of 1/2″ polypropylene rope. I noticed that your ropes are making direct contact with the branch. Is there a reason you didn’t use a cambium saver? I’m on the fence right now, but suspect it may not be necessary since the shallow swing angle and single line attachment using the bowline knot will prevent the rope from sliding back and forth over the branch and damaging the tree. Have you noticed your ropes sliding across the branch? Are they digging in or damaging the bark? Should I play it safe and buy a cambium saver, like this one?
A hammock over a stream… cool!
My rope tree swing hasn’t worn the bark in 4.5 years. The rope pivots at the bottom of the running bowline knot without rubbing or rotating the knot. A cambium saver sounds like a good idea, however that leather model is designed for tree climbing and I don’t see how you’d fit it around the bulky bowline knot. I doubt leather would hold up to rain & sun for very long.
> Getting the guide line and rope over this (40ft high) branch will be a major challenge
Tie a 1/2 or 1 oz. lead sinker to some fishing line. Cast it over the branch with the fishing pole. Tie the rope to the fishing line and draw it up & over the branch.
Take care,
Bob
hi BOB-
I was wondering if the extensions from the quick link to the seat have to be so long (48″)
I would like to make them 30″ or so. Would this make a difference in the operation of the swing or a safety issue??
thanks so much
Gerry
Shorter seat ropes should be fine. If you’re not satisfied with the action of shorter ropes, you can easily replace it with longer (or shorter) lengths.