The bathroom vanity and plumbing is installed in this episode of the project series. Click here if you missed Part 12, which details the toilet installation.
Bathroom Vanity and Mirror
The bathroom vanity and matching mirror were purchased at Home Depot based on the color and style. The vanity model and mirror are:
36 In. Euro Java Maple Shaker With Top Model PPEJVM36D Store SKU# 998354 $289.00/EA Each and the matching mirror is: 29.25 In. x 35 In. Framed Java Mirror Model MG3036-JVM Store SKU# 995324 $109.00/EA Each A matching wall cabinet is available for ~$100.
Bathroom Vanity
The vanity comes preassembled in a large and somewhat heavy box.
Vanity Shipping Box
Unpacking the vanity reveals the cabinet base and cultured marble sink.
Vanity Unpacked
The vanity cabinet is temporarily set in place by the plumbing connections against the wall. As you can see in the picture below, the open back of the vanity allows the position to be adjusted several inches left or right. The marble vanity top is then laid on top of the cabinet.
Vanity Cabinet Rough-In
Faucet Hookup
I chose an American Standard Williamsburg faucet based on the style. It comes complete with the Speed Connect™ drain “1/3 the parts, connects in 1/3 the time”, which I really liked.
American Standard Faucet
The faucet components consist of:
- Faucet
- Speed Connect drain
- Alternate style of metal handles should you not like the white porcelain ones
- Plastic mounting nuts
- Instructions
Faucet Components
The faucet is mounted on the sink by inserting it through the holes in the sink.
Installing the Faucet
The faucet is held in place by the two black plastic nuts that thread onto the hot and cold brass shanks (top of photo). The nuts are tightened by hand, no tools required at this point. The next photo is looking up from inside the vanity cabinet.
Bottom of Faucet and Mount Nuts
The drain body is inserted in the bottom of the sink:
Speed Connect(tm) Sink Drain
The drain is held in place by the gray locknut and tightened by hand. It’s as simple as it looks!
Drain Locknut
The assembled sink drain:
Assembled Sink Drain
This part is really cool – the geared end of the popup drain cable that comes with the Speed Connect™ drain system. It reminded me of a speedometer cable on a car. Pulling the lift knob on the faucet rotates the gear and open/closes the popup drain on the sink. It works very well.
Popup Drain Cable Connector
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, push the popup knob on the faucet all the way down and pull the drain body in the sink up. Then screw the drain cable to the drain body as shown. Check the popup drain operation by working the faucet handle, it’s easy to correct if you don’t get it quite right the first time.
Connecting the Popup Cable to the Drain Body
Hooking up the Drain Plumbing
The PVC drain plumbing for the sink involves some custom fitting of parts. I begins with a 1-1/2 inch P-trap kit from Home Depot. The purpose of the P-trap is hold water in the U section to form a barrier that blocks sewer gases from exiting the sink drain.
1-1/2 inch P-Trap Kit
A schematic diagram is on the back of the P-trap package.
P-Trap Diagram
Here I’m fitting up the drain plumbing. The P-trap is attached to the drain body of the sink and a wye section of PVC pipe. A Studor Mini-Vent (also see my article on sewer gas smell for details) prevents the P-trap from getting sucked dry by equalizing the air pressure in the pipe; and it’s required by the Building Code in most areas.
Studor Valve and PVC Drain Fittings
More fitting and measuring of the drain plumbing connections:
Fitting up the PVC Drain Plumbing
Another view of the drain fittings and layout process:
Laying out the Drain Fittings
A short 1-1/2 inch section of PVC pipe is cut to join the wye to the main drain line.
Ready to Glue the PVC Wye to the Drain Line
The 1-1/2 inch female trap adapter is primed and ready to be glued to the wye.
Gluing the PVC Drain Fittings
The Studor Mini Vent should be installed as high as practical (minimum 4 inches) above the drain line. The Mini Vent threads are sealed with teflon plumbers tape and screws into a 1-1/2 inch PVC female threaded adapter.
Studor Mini Vent Installation
The next photo illustrates the progress at this point; Studor Mini Vent is set as high as practical above the horizontal drain line and the 1-1/2 inch female trap adapter is glued into the PVC wye.
Mini Vent, Wye and Female Trap Adapter
The trap tube is measured and marked for cutting as it’s too long as you can see in the photo below. The trap tube need only extend inside the female trap adapter an inch or two at most.
Measuring the Trap Tube for Cutting to Length
The P-trap tube is cut to length in the photo below. Note the assembly sequence of the trap tube I’m holding in my hand:
- The threaded locking ring from the female trap adapter is slid over the trap tube.
- Next, the white compression gasket from the trap adapter is slipped over the trap tube.
P-trap Tube Cut to Length
Final assembly consists of:
- Inserting the trap tube into the female trap adapter, sliding the white compression gasket into place, and tightening the threaded locking ring. This is the horizontal pipe section facing the wall.
- Tightening the locking ring on the downward facing part of the 90 degree elbow to the U of the P-trap.
These are slip connections making the adjustments easy for proper fit and alignment.
Sink Drain Plumbing Fully Assembled
I’ve now reached a major milestone! The bathroom plumbing is complete! I could turn on the water, but No! – I need to install the baseboard first.
Baseboard Installation
The first thing to do is disconnect the P-trap and slide the vanity away from the wall so I can install the baseboard trim in the corner; otherwise I wouldn’t have room to work.
Vanity Plumbing Disconnected
This is why I moved the vanity to install the baseboard in the corner. The baseboard is nailed to the wall studs with white finishing nails. Note the baseboard is fitted exactly against the vanity cabinet. This not only looks professional but helps keep the cabinet moving if bumped.
Corner Baseboard Installed and Caulked
View of the baseboard fitted against the vanity cabinet.
Vanity and Baseboard
The braided metal faucet connector is threaded onto the hot and cold water ballcock and the faucet. It’s best to use the shortest connector possible to minimize any chance of kinks in the hose.
Faucet Connector
The faucet hoses are connected to the brass stems of the faucet. You’ll need a small wrench to tighten the nuts.
Hot and Cold Water Faucet Connections
The faucet lines are connected to the hot and cold water supply. Lastly, the P-trap is reconnected.
Completed Water Supply and Drain Plumbing
The bathroom plumbing is not 100% completed! Time for first water!! The faucets are opened and the vanity plumbing checked for leaks:
Turning on the Water for the First Time
Trying out the shower:
Running the Shower
And also flushing the toilet. Everything checks A-OK.
Sewage Pump Operation
The running water has to go somewhere, and it empties into the sewage basin to be removed by the sewage pump. I left the 1/2 cover off the basin – this is the part with the vent line – so I could inspect the sewage pump operation and check the PVC sewer lines for leaks. Everything was perfect!
Sewage Basin with Half Cover & Vent Line Removed
This video shows how the Liberty sewage pump operates:
- Water from the bathroom faucet fills the basin.
- The mechanical float switch turns the pump on at the high water level.
- The pump lifts the water out of the basin to the main sewer line overhead.
- The mechanical float switch turns the pump off at the low water level.
- The inline check-valve prevents water from draining back into the basin.
The basin only looks dirty because of some dirt and rainwater that got into it when the house was built and open to the weather. Plastic shavings are floating on the water surface from the time I trimmed the outlet with a Rotozip tool.
The next photo attempts to show the vanity, toilet and shower in a single view. I’ve mounted the toilet paper and towel racks, too.
Vanity, Toilet and Shower
The vanity light and switch installation and wiring are covered in the Part 14.
Until next time,
Bob Jackson
4 Responses to “Finishing a Basement Bathroom – Part 13”
Trackbacks/Pingbacks
[...] The vanity, faucet and drain plumbing hookups are installed and the sewage pump tested in Part 13 of the series. [...]
[...] wall switch. The photo below points out the new vanity light bar and wall switch. You can also read Part 13 of this project which covers the vanity installation and plumbing connections. Vanity Light and [...]
[...] since completed the bathroom plumbing (see Part 13). Click here to see a video of sewage pump being [...]
[...] Part 13 – Bathroom vanity, sink, faucet, drain and water supply plumbing; sewage pump operation video. [...]