This is a continuation of the wiring for the vanity light and switch began in Part 15 of this project. In this installment, I wire the junction box and mount the vanity light.
I bought this 4-light vanity from Lowes for about $100.00 because it matched the towel racks.
The vanity mounts to the wall as follows:
- The blue “old work” junction box is fastened to a hole cut in the drywall.
- The mounting plate is fastened to the junction box via two screws provided with the vanity light as indicated by the red circles.
- The vanity base slides over the two metal studs in the mounting plate and is held in place by two threaded cap balls, as indicated by the two long red arrows. (The bottom hole in the vanity base is hidden from view in this photo.)
Mounting the Junction Box for the Vanity Light
The vanity light is located about 10 inches above the mirror for a pleasing look and high enough that I’ve cleared the 2×4 horizontal bracing between the wall studs.
To locate the junction box:
- With a level, mark a six inch long horizontal line at the height where the junction box will be located on the wall relative to the top of the mirror.
- Take down the mirror to avoid damaging it.
- While standing on a step ladder, mark a 6 inch long vertical line above the center of sink using a long straight edge and level as shown in the photo below. The result is a ‘plus’ + sign for the center of the junction box. (Note the mounting screws for the mirror at the extreme left and right of the photo.)
Hold the junction box face down against the wall over the center lines. Now trace the outline of the box on the wall.
In the above photo, notice that the Junction Box has a flat rim that will sit on the surface of the wall when the hole is cut to prevent the box from falling through. If the hole is cut using this circle, it will be too large.
It just so happens the diameter of the metal mounting ring is the size of the body of the junction box. I therefore center the ring and trace it’s outline on the wall per the photo below:
The smaller diameter hole is cut with a Rotozip spiral saw:
and the junction box fit is checked as shown – perfect!:
Back in the ceiling crawlspace, the is the view of the junction box cutout in the drywall. The hole can just be seen as the bright spot at the lower right above the 2×4 bracing. It was simple to feed the NM 14/2 electrical wire through the hole from here.
The new NM 14/2 electrical wire from the crawlspace junction box is fed through the hole.
The wire is fed through the back of the junction box, the outer jacket remove the ends stripped as shown. Notice the “wings” on the old work junction box. The wings will grab the drywall as the screws are tightened.
To mount the junction box:
- Align the accessory screw holes horizontally as shown with the center lines as shown.
- Tighten the three wing screws until they “grab” the drywall. Don’t over tighten as it can crack the drywall.
Align the mounting ring such that the two threaded studs are perfectly vertical and fasten the mounting ring with the two screws provided with the light kit as shown below. Next, wire nut the pigtails of the vanity light plug to the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires as shown.
These next steps requires three hands… while holding the vanity light bar, plug in the pigtail to the light and tuck the wires inside the junction box. Then slide the base plate over the two threaded studs and screw on the metal ball caps.
Vanity light mounted to the wall.
The glass shades and light bulbs are attached and the circuit breaker turned on
Now it’s time to “Let there be Light!” Wow! What a difference good lighting makes to bring out the colors in liven up a room! Hmm, I need to paint that door white.
Good lighting makes everything look nicer:
The basement bathroom is now 99% complete! Click here for Part 17.
Hope you found this helpful,
Bob Jackson
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