Comments on: How to Repair a Leaky PVC Pipe Joint – Part 3

By: Ryan C

Ryan C — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 14:28:29 +0000

Excellent step-by-step directions with pictures. I laughed out loud when you described how the unglued section popped off! I can just about imagine what your reaction must have been. Maybe a little bit of cursing at the person who did the original work. Despite having no idea who that person is/was, isn’t it funny how a shoddy job like that can leave you convinced that that guy is walking around today with his head up his rear end? Anyway, thanks for the tips. I’m off to work on my own project now with a little more know-how than I had 10 minutes ago.

By: pat trowbridge

pat trowbridge — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 04:15:34 +0000

Wow! Was I lucky to find your work on these repairs. What great teaching. I’m embarking on my own plumbing efforts and this was very encouraging. Thanks alot Mr. Bob Jackson.

By: Netsrac

Netsrac — Sun, 06 Nov 2011 17:55:05 +0000

Thanks, this was very helpful.

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 00:09:06 +0000

Hi Ray,
The lack of “play” to work in the last PVC pipe fitting – while having only seconds before the glue hardens – is a common problem. I used a Fernco Tee fitting for this reason when I spliced into the main sewer line in this basement bathroom project.

It helps to “dry fit” the PVC plumbing pieces and make alignment marks with a felt tip pen to figure out the best assembly order. A long pipe run can often provide enough “flex” if muscled to slip in the last joint. The alternative is to use an appropriate Fernco flexible fitting.

Take care,
Bob Jackson

By: RCharles

RCharles — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:20:30 +0000

An interesting project. I’m doing new work, not a repair, but have a similar problem. the PVC is coming from two directions: the vent is coming down from the ceiling and the drain extends up from the floor. I’m now ready to connect the last three or four pieces with elbows, etc. But the more pieces I glue, the less flexibility for stretching the gap for the last piece. I can’t figure out how to make the last connections since the pipe must be separated to spread the glue and I don’t think I can glue two connections at once.

Your ideas will be appreciated.

Ray

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 04:06:16 +0000

Hi Randy,
I chose the Fernco El for several reasons:

* That section of pipe was very difficult to reach. I could get one hand on it, but two hands at the same time was next to impossible.

* The Fernco El alignment is adjustable both in angle and seat depth. Dry fitting PVC pipe and marking alignments & positions works well, but the Fernco part is insurance against a small mistake.

* PVC pipe glue sets up in seconds – no 2nd chances.

* PVC elbows won’t flex making the last piece to be glued in the center a challege. The Fernco El can be bent/folded to fit in tight spots.

If that section of pipe had been somewhere easy to get at, I might have gone with all PVC parts.

Thanks for reading,
Bob Jackson

By: Randy Clark

Randy Clark — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 16:36:54 +0000

Why did you choose to use the Fernco Ell instead of a new section of pvc? Yes, clamps are easier than cement, but isn’t the cement a more permanent choice? And is the Fernco Ell up to code in most locations?

thanks – your photos and descriptions make me ready to skip the plumber and do my job myself.

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 00:28:36 +0000

I briefly considered a patch job and dismissed it on the belief that the wet joint would prevent pipe glue or epoxy from bonding. The repair parts and cable saw cost less than $20. Well worth doing a complete repair for peace of mind.

By: moab

moab — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 00:00:19 +0000

Why not just scrape out the leaking joint, then drip or inject pipesealant or glue into the joint. Put a bowl underneath and do some heavy testing. Not a perfect fix but maybe good enough to tide you over until you have free time.
Wiggling on a weak join first would identify any unglued weakness. Care should be taken not to pull too hard and damage the mountings.

By: mld

mld — Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:12:49 +0000

Some notes after the repair: Keep tension from left-to-right on the cable – don’t let it go slack. And, don’t stop the motion with the cable saw once you get started. If you stop, a couple bad things can happen. First, as Bob mentions, the PVC can melt back behind the cable. The cables can then get bound up in the PVC. Second, unfortunately these cables twist in the middle if you don’t keep tension – and once they twist around on themselves on the inside of the pipe, getting them unbound is a harder chore than cutting through the PVC itself, especially in next-to-zero clearance situations.