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	<title>Comments on: How to Clean Air Conditioner Evaporator Coils &#8211; Part 2</title>
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	<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/</link>
	<description>Home improvement, maintenance and repair projects.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 18:34:45 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Rick Schreiber</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3611</link>
		<dc:creator>Rick Schreiber</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2012 12:53:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3611</guid>
		<description>To clarify, the house does eventually reach temperature.  It takes longer than it did before the remodel, and the gas heat source turns on and off several times during a single heating cycle, running for 4-5 minutes, then off for one minute.

I tried the flashlight and mirror tip and I was able to see light coming through the A-frame at several locations, so I guess it&#039;s not clogged

Also, the return was never opened to unfiltered air.

I had a tech look at it and he said the computer indicates that it&#039;s shutting down the heat on limit, which tells us that the plenum is overheating.  

We took the bottom door off to allow more air flow and that seems to have alleviated the problem, so I&#039;m moving forward with adding more returns.

Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To clarify, the house does eventually reach temperature.  It takes longer than it did before the remodel, and the gas heat source turns on and off several times during a single heating cycle, running for 4-5 minutes, then off for one minute.</p>
<p>I tried the flashlight and mirror tip and I was able to see light coming through the A-frame at several locations, so I guess it&#8217;s not clogged</p>
<p>Also, the return was never opened to unfiltered air.</p>
<p>I had a tech look at it and he said the computer indicates that it&#8217;s shutting down the heat on limit, which tells us that the plenum is overheating.  </p>
<p>We took the bottom door off to allow more air flow and that seems to have alleviated the problem, so I&#8217;m moving forward with adding more returns.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
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		<title>By: Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3569</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Dec 2011 01:08:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3569</guid>
		<description>The foaming coil cleaner spray can will shoot the cleaner a good 3 feet, so it&#039;s not necessary to be directly over the coils at the far end where it&#039;s widest. A pump sprayer and wand will do even better by forcing a gentle stream of cleaning fluid through those hard to reach areas.

Does your horizontal A-frame evaporator coil look similar to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alpinehomeair.com/partnernet/photoFiles/livecache/imgCache-GoodmanCHPF3_514_0.jpg&quot; title=&quot;Goodman Horizontal Cased Evaporator Coil&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goodman model&lt;/a&gt;? Can you get to both sides of the A coils? 

If your challenge is getting access to the other side of the horizontal coils, consider installing a duct access panel in the plenum in front the coil case. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lauparts.com/catalog/index.aspx?id=14308&quot; title=&quot;Lau access doors enable access into ducts without compromising safety or ventilation.&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lau Industries&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kees.com/access.htm&quot; title=&quot;ACCESS DOORS AND PANELS&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kees&lt;/a&gt; make duct access panels. These are insulated duct access doors with a gasket to seal against the plenum and metal tabs (similar to a duct starting collar) which grip the inside of the plenum to prevent blowouts. Easy to install in the rigid plenum ductboard.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The foaming coil cleaner spray can will shoot the cleaner a good 3 feet, so it&#8217;s not necessary to be directly over the coils at the far end where it&#8217;s widest. A pump sprayer and wand will do even better by forcing a gentle stream of cleaning fluid through those hard to reach areas.</p>
<p>Does your horizontal A-frame evaporator coil look similar to this <a href="http://www.alpinehomeair.com/partnernet/photoFiles/livecache/imgCache-GoodmanCHPF3_514_0.jpg" title="Goodman Horizontal Cased Evaporator Coil" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Goodman model</a>? Can you get to both sides of the A coils? </p>
<p>If your challenge is getting access to the other side of the horizontal coils, consider installing a duct access panel in the plenum in front the coil case. <a href="http://www.lauparts.com/catalog/index.aspx?id=14308" title="Lau access doors enable access into ducts without compromising safety or ventilation." target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Lau Industries</a> and <a href="http://www.kees.com/access.htm" title="ACCESS DOORS AND PANELS" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Kees</a> make duct access panels. These are insulated duct access doors with a gasket to seal against the plenum and metal tabs (similar to a duct starting collar) which grip the inside of the plenum to prevent blowouts. Easy to install in the rigid plenum ductboard.</p>
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		<title>By: Curtis</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3568</link>
		<dc:creator>Curtis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 18:16:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3568</guid>
		<description>My A-coil lays sideways and I cannot gain acess to the lower part of coils. Do you think the foam coil cleaner sprayed on top coils will drip downward and help clean the lower coils ? I might be able to use the AC flow cleaner that has pump spray nozzel and slide my hand between opening and pump that type in the inside but not much room to get my hand in there.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My A-coil lays sideways and I cannot gain acess to the lower part of coils. Do you think the foam coil cleaner sprayed on top coils will drip downward and help clean the lower coils ? I might be able to use the AC flow cleaner that has pump spray nozzel and slide my hand between opening and pump that type in the inside but not much room to get my hand in there.</p>
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		<title>By: Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3520</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Dec 2011 14:48:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3520</guid>
		<description>To summarize the symptoms:
* Blower runs continuously
* Heat cycles on 5 mins, then off 2 mins
* House won&#039;t warm sufficiently
* Concern the AC coils may be dirty from recent construction, restricting the airflow

Were the return air ducts open during the remodeling such that air bypassed the air filter? If not, the air filter should&#039;ve caught the construction debris/dust. Check the air filter isn&#039;t dirty and replace it if necessary. Have you opened the air handler to inspect the coils by shining a high intensity flashlight through the coils to a mirror on the other side to see if they&#039;re clogged or dirty? If the coils are in fact that dirty, your blower motor could be clogged and blowing weakly. I wonder if the dirt/dust may have built up on your flame sensor and burners, too?

If the return ducts were never open to unfiltered air, then I tend to think the problem isn&#039;t with dirty coils or blower motor. But you can use the foaming coil clean as it&#039;s self rinsing. Just leave the system off for 15 mins so it can wick down to the condensate drain pan.

AC systems are relatively safe to work with because there&#039;s no flame, heat and natural gas or fuel oil as with a furnace. Furnace problems should be looked at by a certified HVAC tech. Assuming the coils aren&#039;t restricting the air flow, you could have a problem with the thermostat, flame sensor, blower motor or other furnace electronics. Heat cycling on &amp; off every 7 mins (~8.5 times/hour) is not normal.

Please post back with what you find.

Thanks,
Bob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To summarize the symptoms:<br />
* Blower runs continuously<br />
* Heat cycles on 5 mins, then off 2 mins<br />
* House won&#8217;t warm sufficiently<br />
* Concern the AC coils may be dirty from recent construction, restricting the airflow</p>
<p>Were the return air ducts open during the remodeling such that air bypassed the air filter? If not, the air filter should&#8217;ve caught the construction debris/dust. Check the air filter isn&#8217;t dirty and replace it if necessary. Have you opened the air handler to inspect the coils by shining a high intensity flashlight through the coils to a mirror on the other side to see if they&#8217;re clogged or dirty? If the coils are in fact that dirty, your blower motor could be clogged and blowing weakly. I wonder if the dirt/dust may have built up on your flame sensor and burners, too?</p>
<p>If the return ducts were never open to unfiltered air, then I tend to think the problem isn&#8217;t with dirty coils or blower motor. But you can use the foaming coil clean as it&#8217;s self rinsing. Just leave the system off for 15 mins so it can wick down to the condensate drain pan.</p>
<p>AC systems are relatively safe to work with because there&#8217;s no flame, heat and natural gas or fuel oil as with a furnace. Furnace problems should be looked at by a certified HVAC tech. Assuming the coils aren&#8217;t restricting the air flow, you could have a problem with the thermostat, flame sensor, blower motor or other furnace electronics. Heat cycling on &#038; off every 7 mins (~8.5 times/hour) is not normal.</p>
<p>Please post back with what you find.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Bob</p>
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		<title>By: Rick Schreiber</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3513</link>
		<dc:creator>Rick Schreiber</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Dec 2011 19:10:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3513</guid>
		<description>Hi Bob - Thanks for this article and your great responsiveness to answering follow up questions.  

I&#039;m in the middle of a basement remodel project.  Since heating season began in NY, I&#039;ve noticed that my furnace hits a temperature limit during normal operation - the heat cycles on for 5 minutes, then off for 2 minutes).  This happens several times while blower keeps running.  It also seems to take a lot longer to get the house up to temperature.

I have central air, and it was suggested to me that it&#039;s likely that some of the destruction/construction debris has entered the system and clogged the coils.

I was going to use the foaming cleaner since I don&#039;t have access to underneath the coils, but I didn&#039;t know if it was appropriate to use that product during heating season, since the coils won&#039;t self clean via condensation.

Also had another idea; would it be reasonable to use compressed air from the top of the coils and a vacuum connected to the condensation drain to clean the coils?  My thought is that the compressed air would dislodge the &quot;hair&quot; and the vac would remove it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Bob &#8211; Thanks for this article and your great responsiveness to answering follow up questions.  </p>
<p>I&#8217;m in the middle of a basement remodel project.  Since heating season began in NY, I&#8217;ve noticed that my furnace hits a temperature limit during normal operation &#8211; the heat cycles on for 5 minutes, then off for 2 minutes).  This happens several times while blower keeps running.  It also seems to take a lot longer to get the house up to temperature.</p>
<p>I have central air, and it was suggested to me that it&#8217;s likely that some of the destruction/construction debris has entered the system and clogged the coils.</p>
<p>I was going to use the foaming cleaner since I don&#8217;t have access to underneath the coils, but I didn&#8217;t know if it was appropriate to use that product during heating season, since the coils won&#8217;t self clean via condensation.</p>
<p>Also had another idea; would it be reasonable to use compressed air from the top of the coils and a vacuum connected to the condensation drain to clean the coils?  My thought is that the compressed air would dislodge the &#8220;hair&#8221; and the vac would remove it.</p>
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		<title>By: Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3446</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Dec 2011 18:16:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3446</guid>
		<description>&gt; I noticed that the TXV sensing bulb was detached from the refridgerant line on the outside unit. 
&gt; I pointed this out to the tech. and he stated that it would not cause the problem.
The thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) won&#039;t work properly if the sensing bulb is not in direct contact with refrigerant line so it respond to the temperature changes and provide feedback to the TXV valve to regulate the flow of refrigerant. The TXV valve plays a role in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/shared/saveenergymoney/rebates/03txvtechv5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;protecting your compressor&lt;/a&gt;, too.

I&#039;d get a 2nd opinion because a detached sensing bulb is a red flag for improper installation. You may have a 5 year warranty on the compressor, so have everything thoroughly checked.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&gt; I noticed that the TXV sensing bulb was detached from the refridgerant line on the outside unit.<br />
&gt; I pointed this out to the tech. and he stated that it would not cause the problem.<br />
The thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) won&#8217;t work properly if the sensing bulb is not in direct contact with refrigerant line so it respond to the temperature changes and provide feedback to the TXV valve to regulate the flow of refrigerant. The TXV valve plays a role in <a href="http://www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/shared/saveenergymoney/rebates/03txvtechv5.pdf" rel="nofollow">protecting your compressor</a>, too.</p>
<p>I&#8217;d get a 2nd opinion because a detached sensing bulb is a red flag for improper installation. You may have a 5 year warranty on the compressor, so have everything thoroughly checked.</p>
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		<title>By: Larry Spires</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3445</link>
		<dc:creator>Larry Spires</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Dec 2011 16:36:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3445</guid>
		<description>My compressor on a 4 ton coleman heat pump overheated and went to ground. Unit 4 years old. Tech said he could replace compressor and flush system and all would be fine. 4 months later same thing happened. I noticed that the TXV sensing bulb was detached from the refridgerant line on the outside unit. I pointed this out to the tech. and he stated that it would not cause the problem. He now suggest a whole new system. Any comments?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My compressor on a 4 ton coleman heat pump overheated and went to ground. Unit 4 years old. Tech said he could replace compressor and flush system and all would be fine. 4 months later same thing happened. I noticed that the TXV sensing bulb was detached from the refridgerant line on the outside unit. I pointed this out to the tech. and he stated that it would not cause the problem. He now suggest a whole new system. Any comments?</p>
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		<title>By: Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3417</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 14:12:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3417</guid>
		<description>&gt; He noted the pan was not fully draining. He corrected and cleaned mold/mildew from the coils.
Condensate pans are sloped to direct the water to the collection tray where it flows into the drain lines - a simple gravity fed arrangement. Your system was not install correctly if the condensate pan was not fully draining - was the unit not level or the drain piping not sloped downward? I question if the condensate drainage has been fully &quot;corrected&quot; and recommend calling another factory certified HVAC company to inspect your system. There shouldn&#039;t be standing water in the condensate drain pan, check the drain lines are clear and the condensate pump (if any) is in good order.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&gt; He noted the pan was not fully draining. He corrected and cleaned mold/mildew from the coils.<br />
Condensate pans are sloped to direct the water to the collection tray where it flows into the drain lines &#8211; a simple gravity fed arrangement. Your system was not install correctly if the condensate pan was not fully draining &#8211; was the unit not level or the drain piping not sloped downward? I question if the condensate drainage has been fully &#8220;corrected&#8221; and recommend calling another factory certified HVAC company to inspect your system. There shouldn&#8217;t be standing water in the condensate drain pan, check the drain lines are clear and the condensate pump (if any) is in good order.</p>
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		<title>By: Rick Forschner</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3415</link>
		<dc:creator>Rick Forschner</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:25:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3415</guid>
		<description>About six months ago we replaced our ten year old Ruud system with a Lennox...both 3.5 tons.  Three months ago we became aware of a musty smell. We called the installer. He noted the pan was not fully draining. He corrected and cleaned mold/mildew from the coils.  This past weekend we became aware of the smell again.  We are waiting to hear back from the installer (it&#039;s Thanksgiving weekend).  Should we be concerned?  What do you recommend?  (other than this one issue the unit seems to cool and heat better than our old Ruud)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>About six months ago we replaced our ten year old Ruud system with a Lennox&#8230;both 3.5 tons.  Three months ago we became aware of a musty smell. We called the installer. He noted the pan was not fully draining. He corrected and cleaned mold/mildew from the coils.  This past weekend we became aware of the smell again.  We are waiting to hear back from the installer (it&#8217;s Thanksgiving weekend).  Should we be concerned?  What do you recommend?  (other than this one issue the unit seems to cool and heat better than our old Ruud)</p>
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		<title>By: Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-2/#comment-3300</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 03 Oct 2011 23:35:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=2528#comment-3300</guid>
		<description>An odd question, especially since your company manufactures building automation systems, including HVAC controls, but OK.

It should be a rare circumstance that a home HVAC system requires an &lt;strong&gt;immediate&lt;/strong&gt; change over from heating to cooling. Such an abrupt change means there&#039;s something wrong with the house insulation or envelope. I can see heating on a cold night and when the day warms up, turning on the AC; but that would require hours of gradual warming when no heating or cooling is needed and there&#039;s no risk of thermal shock to the evaporator coils.

There are thermostats that will automatically switchover from heating to cooling modes (and vice versa), but those have a deadband of several degrees so the two cycles aren&#039;t in conflict.

The question reminds of episode of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64nI_VOiNPk&amp;NR=1&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Muppet Show&lt;/a&gt; when Scooter put the Eskimos and Arabs in the same dressing room.
Later, Scooter yells down to Kermit: &quot;I got trouble up here boss!&quot;
Kermit: &quot;What?&quot;
Scooter: &quot;The Arabs and Eskimos are sharing a dressing room.&quot;
Kermit: &quot;So?&quot;
Scooter: &quot;So the Arabs want it hotter and the Eskimos want to turn on the air conditioner.&quot;
Kermit: &quot;...Try to get them to compromise.&quot;
Scooter: &quot;Oh they have compromised! The Eskimos turned on the air conditioner and the Arabs set it on fire!&quot;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An odd question, especially since your company manufactures building automation systems, including HVAC controls, but OK.</p>
<p>It should be a rare circumstance that a home HVAC system requires an <strong>immediate</strong> change over from heating to cooling. Such an abrupt change means there&#8217;s something wrong with the house insulation or envelope. I can see heating on a cold night and when the day warms up, turning on the AC; but that would require hours of gradual warming when no heating or cooling is needed and there&#8217;s no risk of thermal shock to the evaporator coils.</p>
<p>There are thermostats that will automatically switchover from heating to cooling modes (and vice versa), but those have a deadband of several degrees so the two cycles aren&#8217;t in conflict.</p>
<p>The question reminds of episode of the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64nI_VOiNPk&amp;NR=1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Muppet Show</a> when Scooter put the Eskimos and Arabs in the same dressing room.<br />
Later, Scooter yells down to Kermit: &#8220;I got trouble up here boss!&#8221;<br />
Kermit: &#8220;What?&#8221;<br />
Scooter: &#8220;The Arabs and Eskimos are sharing a dressing room.&#8221;<br />
Kermit: &#8220;So?&#8221;<br />
Scooter: &#8220;So the Arabs want it hotter and the Eskimos want to turn on the air conditioner.&#8221;<br />
Kermit: &#8220;&#8230;Try to get them to compromise.&#8221;<br />
Scooter: &#8220;Oh they have compromised! The Eskimos turned on the air conditioner and the Arabs set it on fire!&#8221;</p>
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