Comments on: How to Clean Air Conditioner Evaporator Coils – Part 2

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Thu, 23 Aug 2012 09:49:06 +0000

The algae and mildew could be on the inside of the coils or perhaps just along the bottom. It doesn’t take much to make an odor. Try the foaming cleaner first to see if helps with the odor, then you’ll know you’re on the right track. Spray a bit of the cleaner on the A-Frame cap in case water is pooling there.

By: Denise

Denise — Wed, 22 Aug 2012 15:53:49 +0000

Hi Bob,
We looked inside at the evaporator coils and from what we can see they look clean (just like your photo’s). The drain pan looks normal too. Could it be built up on the inside? Should we use they coil cleaner spray foam anyway?
We also replaced the drain line. Thanks for your help.

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Tue, 21 Aug 2012 16:13:02 +0000

Dirty evaporator coils are the most likely cause – algae/mildew growing on the coils will cause the sour or foul odor. The condensation drain pan should also be checked for standing water, algae and possibly a clogged drain line.

By: Denise

Denise — Tue, 21 Aug 2012 14:30:57 +0000

Hi Bob,
It has been a hot summer and we have been running the a/c non stop. I have noticed a foul smell all summer and couldn’t figure out where it was coming from. Last week it finally got cooler. I turned off a/c for four days. Yesterday the temp went back up and right after the a/c was turned on the odor returned. We turned off the a/c and just ran the fan and there was no smell. Does this mean the evaporator coils need to be cleaned? Could it be something else? HELP

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Sat, 28 Jul 2012 22:47:16 +0000

Please see this new post explaining how to inspect the inside of the coils and give it heavy duty coil cleaning.

By: Kandy hair

Kandy hair — Sat, 28 Jul 2012 12:13:11 +0000

My AC unit is not cooling as well as it should and I suspect my A-Frame coil is partially plugged with pet hair/dander that has been sucked up into the inside of the coil. I cannot access the inside of the A-frame without having the refrigerent drained and the A-frame removed. Is there any approved coil cleaning solution that will dissolve the hair and allow me to rinse it out down the drain tube? Any suggestions as to how to get the hair out without having to pay a professional to do it would be appreciated.

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Sat, 07 Jul 2012 20:40:18 +0000

If the AC seasonal maintenance is up to date - air filter replaced, refrigerant charge and pressure OK, evaporator coils are clean, outside compressor coils are clean, the compressor fan is running, etc. - then the problem may be your 2 Ton AC system simply can't keep up with the cooling demand of a 106 degree F day in the Kansas City area. Recommend calling an factory certified Trane HVAC service company to do a routine health check on your system. The service call will be around $100 and the HVAC tech can verify the system is OK and correctly sized for your home. Last week the temperature in my area of North Georgia was 104 degrees F - a new high temperature record. I have two 3 ton AC systems and two thermostats, one for upstairs and one for downstairs. Both AC systems ran non-stop all day and most of the night. The downstairs thermostat held at 75 degrees, while the upstairs thermostat read 80 degrees with a 75 degree set point. The upstairs cooling capacity couldn't match the heat load until very late in the day. Assuming your 2 ton AC system health checks out OK but is unable to keep up with the very hot days, your options are: * Upgrade your AC system to increase the cooling capacity, however this is expensive. or Decrease the heat flux coming into your home by: 1. Add attic insulation to at least an R30 or better R60 rating. This will have the greatest impact dollar for dollar. 2. Close the curtains and blinds to keep out the sun and infrared heat radiation. 3. Buy a dehumidifier; drier air feels more comfortable. 4. Ceiling fans to move the air. Also verify your attic is adequately ventilated. Attics are hot, but shouldn't be any hotter than necessary. The U.S. Dept of Housing and Urban Development (www.hud.gov) recommends "Attics will be ventilated with a minimum of 1 square foot of free vent for each 300 square feet of roof area.". The attic ventilation can be a combination of power attic fans, roof turbines, ridge vents, box vents for outflow air with soffit and/or gable vents for inflow air. Please post back with what you decide to do.

By: Linda Ramirez

Linda Ramirez — Sat, 07 Jul 2012 18:50:20 +0000

My 5 year old TRANE 2 ton unit is acting up. The air is running constantly. I think its because its not (cooling) reaching its set temp of 76. The coolest it gets is 80 degrees. I’ve checked and cleaned the outside unit but still only 80 degrees. I don’t see freezing or anything…my husband and I are thinking that it may need an a-coil cleaning. What do you think? I’ve read ALL the posts, do you think its something we may be able to do ourselves?

HELP!

By: Bob Jackson

Bob Jackson — Sat, 07 Jul 2012 03:27:11 +0000

$6000.00 or more?! Now that's scary, but you're being taken for a ride. Recommend calling a York factory-certified service company. United Part Supply for $265.44 and it's in stock. (Disclaimer: I am not endorsing United Part Supply, however their website has all the right customer satisfaction policies). At least you now know that: 1) The drain pan is available as a repair / replacement part. 2) The cost is not outrageous. Installation labor will be extra for the drain pan. Contact a York Certified Dealer for a quote. Get at least 3 quotes if possible. I'd purchase the drain pan from the local York dealer, you may pay extra (within reason) but it's better to have the dealer be accountable for the entire repair and work guarantee. Write back and let me know how your repair turns out.

By: Thomas

Thomas — Fri, 06 Jul 2012 14:53:11 +0000

We recently noticed a puddle of water in our basement under our furnace and called a company to come in and check it out. They told us that the condensation pan attached to the evaporator coils was cracked, rusted and leaking with no way to fix. They suggested we replace the entire AC unit for somewhere between 6K-7K. Needless to say, I was shocked… actually horrified.

He went on to explain (to me over the phone, as my wife was home that day) that these parts are not available anymore since the unit was 20 years old. When I got home, I took off the cover to expose the coils and the pan but could not find a leak anywhere. I could not get to the back of the unit and check for leaks back there as it is in a tight space in our basement.

I guess my question is, can this be fixed and is the pan (if it really is leaking) replaceable by itself or is it one entire unit? The part number on this is G/UA048SA 4 ton coil (R22) on a York AC unit.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.