Comments on: How to Add a Room Air Duct for Heating & Cooling – Part 2 http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/ Home improvement, maintenance and repair projects. Thu, 29 Jul 2010 22:20:39 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0 By: Matt http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-2068 Matt Sat, 29 May 2010 20:44:40 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-2068 Thanks so much for this How To guide. I will be tackling the exact same job this weekend and your guide was a great help! Thanks so much for this How To guide. I will be tackling the exact same job this weekend and your guide was a great help!

]]> By: Bob Jackson http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1864 Bob Jackson Fri, 12 Feb 2010 22:23:30 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1864 Yes, you need a return air vent from the converted garage back to the main house. It's best to locate the supply air vents near the windows (if possible) and install the return vents on the opposite side of the room to mix the air. Also think about replacing the garage entry door with a standard interior door as the original door would have a weather seal to prevent drafts from the unheated garage. The gap between the bottom of an interior door and the floor is a significant contributor to the return air flow pathway. Yes, you need a return air vent from the converted garage back to the main house. It’s best to locate the supply air vents near the windows (if possible) and install the return vents on the opposite side of the room to mix the air.

Also think about replacing the garage entry door with a standard interior door as the original door would have a weather seal to prevent drafts from the unheated garage. The gap between the bottom of an interior door and the floor is a significant contributor to the return air flow pathway.

]]> By: Alan http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1863 Alan Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:06:57 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1863 I have just converted my 2 car garage into a game room and was going to branch 2 lines into it off my central system. Do I need to put a return air vent into the main house where the air handler gets its return air for the main house? I have just converted my 2 car garage into a game room and was going to branch 2 lines into it off my central system. Do I need to put a return air vent into the main house where the air handler gets its return air for the main house?

]]> By: Bob Jackson http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1838 Bob Jackson Thu, 21 Jan 2010 23:28:47 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1838 My home was built in 2000 and this isn't an issue with the fiberglass duct board as shown in the project. As best I can tell, asbestos was banned in the United States in 1977 where it was used to cover metal air ducts. The situation in Great Britain may well be different as discussed at the "Health and Safety Exclusive (HSE)" - see following links. Links further reading: * <a href="http://www.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/ashome.html" rel="nofollow">Asbestos in Your Home</a> by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). * <a href="http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html" rel="nofollow">Indoor Air Quality - Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)</a> - See the "What to Expect From an Air Duct Cleaning Service Provider" statement about asbestos. * <a href="http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/" rel="nofollow">Asbestos health and safety by Health & Safety Exclusive (HSE) of Great Britain</a> Thanks, Bob Jackson My home was built in 2000 and this isn’t an issue with the fiberglass duct board as shown in the project.

As best I can tell, asbestos was banned in the United States in 1977 where it was used to cover metal air ducts. The situation in Great Britain may well be different as discussed at the “Health and Safety Exclusive (HSE)” – see following links.

Links further reading:
* Asbestos in Your Home by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

* Indoor Air Quality – Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) – See the “What to Expect From an Air Duct Cleaning Service Provider” statement about asbestos.

* Asbestos health and safety by Health & Safety Exclusive (HSE) of Great Britain

Thanks,
Bob Jackson

]]> By: john http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1837 john Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:24:41 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1837 Before you touch any insulation please note that if it was laid before 1995 it may contain asbestos. If so do not touch it get the removers in a dust mask is not enough and 20 to 40 years down the line a slow and painfully death is a possibility. Look up HSE asbestos as a general guide Before you touch any insulation please note that if it was laid before 1995 it may contain asbestos. If so do not touch it get the removers in a dust mask is not enough and 20 to 40 years down the line a slow and painfully death is a possibility. Look up HSE asbestos as a general guide

]]> By: Bob Jackson http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1775 Bob Jackson Mon, 30 Nov 2009 13:38:03 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1775 Working with fiberglass for an hour or two on a <strong>small job</strong> - a couple of rolls of insulation - doesn't bother me. I do wear long pants and long sleeves. A dust mask and gloves are recommended, but I've not been bothered handling the glass with my bare hands. It probably depends a lot on your skin sensitivity. Take a shower afterwards and run your work clothes through laundry in the normal way. You will see a lot of very short fibers and dust floating in the beam of the flashlight when working in the attic, so a dust mask a good choice. Working with fiberglass for an hour or two on a small job – a couple of rolls of insulation – doesn’t bother me. I do wear long pants and long sleeves. A dust mask and gloves are recommended, but I’ve not been bothered handling the glass with my bare hands. It probably depends a lot on your skin sensitivity. Take a shower afterwards and run your work clothes through laundry in the normal way. You will see a lot of very short fibers and dust floating in the beam of the flashlight when working in the attic, so a dust mask a good choice.

]]> By: Frank http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1773 Frank Sun, 29 Nov 2009 19:05:07 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1773 How did you deal with the fiberglass in your clothes and skin? I have an attic and would like to work in there, but with the white insulation it is very messy and gets over everything. How did you deal with the fiberglass in your clothes and skin? I have an attic and would like to work in there, but with the white insulation it is very messy and gets over everything.

]]> By: How to Add a Room Air Duct for Heating & Cooling - Part 1 | HandymanHowto.com http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/09/28/how-to-add-a-room-air-duct-for-heating-cooling-part-2/comment-page-1/#comment-1644 How to Add a Room Air Duct for Heating & Cooling - Part 1 | HandymanHowto.com Tue, 29 Sep 2009 00:19:58 +0000 http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=3484#comment-1644 [...] This project is continued in Part 2. [...] [...] This project is continued in Part 2. [...]

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