This project is continued from Part 1.
To install the new hinges, the French Door will have to be removed and stood on it’s edge in the workshop. A door is a large awkward item, so I made a pair of jigs out of scrap 2×4′s and 3 inch wood screws to hold the door edgewise. This is big convenience and time saver. I also didn’t want to risk breaking the door glass. The door is 1-3/4 inches wide and fits in the 2 inch wide vertical slots. Plastic wedges are inserted between the door and the 2×4′s to take up the slack.
How to Remove the Door
To remove the door:
- Open the door several inches.
- Place thin blocks and/or wedges under the free side of the door so it can’t drop when the hinge pins are removed.
- Have a helper hold the door so it doesn’t move. My French door weighs 65 lbs.
- Gently tap out the hinge pins from the bottom with a Philips head screw driver and hammer. I recommend starting with the bottom hinge first, then the middle and finally the top hinge.
- Squirt some WD-40 on the hinges if they won’t easily come out.
- Lift the door away when all hinge pins are removed.
All hinge pins have been removed and the door is ready to be carried to the workshop.
The French Door is set in the 2×4 door jigs in the workshop and secured with plastic wedges to prevent wobbling. If you’re worried about marring the door finish, fold an old rag around door edges before placing it in the jig.
I found cardboard shims behind the bottom hinge, more evidence of a previous attempt to correct the door sag. The purpose of the shimming the bottom hinge is to pivot the bottom of the door out- and up to fix the sag. This can work well for minor problems. It didn’t fix the sagging problem with the 65 lb French Door.
The old hinge leaves taken off the door jamb. A variety of screws and cardboard shims were used in a prior failed repair – note this was my doing!
It was a snap to remove the old hinge leaves from the door with a cordless drill/driver.
This project is continued in Part 3.
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