This is continued from Part 2.
Basement Ethernet Jack Installation
The outlet will be located in the corner of the room. This location was chosen because it was close to the entertainment console and the wall cavity was readily accessible from the ceiling crawlspace. The outlet box dimensions were marked on the wall. The level is to ensure the outlet is plumb (true to vertical).
Outlet Box Opening Marked on the Drywall
The opening is cut in the drywall and the outlet box fitted as shown:
Fitting the Old Work Outlet Box
Fishing Cable Down the Basement Wall
Working in the crawlspace between the 1st floor and the basement ceiling, I needed to run the cable down the wall to the opening for the new outlet. This problem is I needed to drill a hole through the horizontal bracing between the wall studs to the reach the basement floor level and the outlet box.
The solution is a six (6) foot long by 3/4 inch diameter drill bit! This is a Greenlee D’versibit Flexible Drill Bit part #12-04-72A. The cost is around $50 to $60 from various retailers. I purchased mine at Home Depot, you will find it in the electrical section.
72 inch Long Flexible Drill Bit
The drill bit is placed between the basement wall studs:
Drill Bit between the Basement Wall Studs
The drill is attached and a 3/4 inch hole drilled through the 2×4 bracing.
Hole Drilled through the 2x4 Bracing
Being a resourceful Handyman and building upon the crescent wrench technique, I went back to my tool box, got a 1/4 inch socket wrench extension and duct taped it to the Ethernet cable. This provided a heavy pointed weight to fish the Ethernet cable through the hole in the wall bracing.
Ethernet Cable Duct Taped to a Socket Wrench Extension
The socket wrench extension dropped easily through the hole:
Fishing the Cable through the Basement Wall
Back at floor level, I reached inside the wall and pulled the cable through the opening cut in the drywall for the new Ethernet outlet.
Pulling Cable through the Wall Opening
The cable is fed through an old work outlet box. An old work outlet box has wings that automatically flare out and grab the inside of the drywall when box is mounted and the screws tightened. Notice that I broke off the wire cover because it would pinch the Cat 5e cable and either kink it (causing signal loss) or possible break the light gauge wires.
Old Work Outlet Box
The kit for wiring up the new Ethernet jack consists of:
- Two port wall plate
- Blank insert
- Ethernet jack
Kit for Wiring the New Ethernet Jack
The new jack is wired as before and snapped into the wall plate.
New Ethernet Jack and Wall Plate
The wall plate ready with the jack and blank insert.
Wall Plate with Jack and Blank Insert
The wall plate is mounted to the outlet box with the provided screws. Notice the cordless drill is set to a low speed and low torque value of “3″ for a gentle touch.
Mouting the Wall Plate
The Ethernet jack upstairs is connected to the NetGear desktop router and a laptop is used to verify Internet connectivity and LAN connection speed (Start –> Control Panel –> Network Connections –> Local Area Connection).
Home Network Ethernet RJ-45 Jack
Lastly, a standard Ethernet cable is plugged into the new RJ-45 wall jack and the Xbox 360. My son reports the Xbox Live performance is much improved and very pleased.
Multi-Room Ethernet Wiring Solution
As a follow-up to the original article, a reader asked what the wiring would look like for Ethernet jacks to several rooms. The following diagram illustrates the multi-room solution:
Ethernet Home Network Wiring Diagram
How it Works:
The cable or DSL modem is connected to an Ethernet Switch to distribute the broadband internet service to a wall plate with four Ethernet jacks serving different rooms in the home. An inexpensive 5-port NetGear FS105NA Ethernet Switch is shown with a four position wall plate. Wall plates are available with 1 to 12 jack positions.
I personally use an 8-port NetGear FS108P Ethernet Switch with four Power-over-Ethernet Ports for my Panasonic Network Cameras as illustrated below. The NetGear Switch is connected a Linksys WRT54G WiFi router so I’ve got the bet of both worlds, wired and wireless networks.
Ethernet Home Network Diagram with PoE
This is a photo of the my home network equipment on a crowded shelf. From left to right are:
- DSL modem (black box far left)
- Linksys WRT54G WiFi router
- ISY-99i Home Automation Controller (black box in center)
- NetGear FS108P Ethernet Switch (blue box)
- NetGear Skype WiFi phone base unit (white box)
I’m really in need of a structured wiring panel. Please see the comments section below for addition information about structured wiring panels.
Hope this helps,
Bob Jackson
March 2nd, 2010 at 8:22 am
Good write-up! I have a modem/router combo unit and I hope to network my house by summer-time. I don’t have a switch but I don’t think I need one. Do you think it would work with just the modem/router unit?
March 2nd, 2010 at 9:06 am
You don’t need an Ethernet switch like the Netgear FS108 that I used unless you need:
A) More Ethernet ports (8, 16 or 24 ports) for connected devices. Most modem/routers only have 4 available RJ-45 ports.
B) Power-over-Ethernet (PoE) for things like network cameras, etc.
You can always start with a basic modem/router combo and add an unmanaged (e.g. the FS108 like I have) or managed (if your traffic management needs warrant it) Ethernet switch. It’s very easy to grow the network, so no need to worry.