This repair is continued from Part 1.
I’ve made the rough cut to remove the water damaged portion of the ceiling drywall. Using the combination square, pencil lines are marked to square up the hole for the final cuts. The lines are marked to align with the suspended ceiling metal runners as seen through the hole.
Damaged Ceiling Drywall – Rough Cut
Square Up the Drywall Ceiling Hole
The replacement drywall panel will be screwed into the bottom of the metal support runners. A utility knife is used to cut the drywall along the squared lines to expose the edge of the runner. Score the paper face of the drywall first, then plunge the blade in making a seesaw motion with successive passes, and finally a long deep pass to complete the cut.
Cut along the Metal Support Runner
Cutting along the other metal support runner:
Squaring up the Hole with a Utility Knife
The damaged section is cut away and the hole is squared exposing the two metal support runners.
Finished Hole in the Drywall Ceiling
Another angle with a good view of the bottom of the shower drain pan, drain body and U-bend.
Damaged Area Cut Out in Drywall Ceiling
Plywood Drywall Ceiling Reinforcement
A 9in x 4in x 1/2in plywood bracing board is installed on the right side of the hole to provide a hard point to fasten the new drywall ceiling panel.
1/2 inch Plywood Bracing Board
The plywood brace is attached to the ceiling using 1-1/4″ drywall screws and the drywall screw setter bit. I allowed for a generous ~2″ overlap into the hole to attach the replacement panel.
Fasten the Plywood Brace with Drywall Screws
The drywall screw setter is a Philips driver set inside a collar. This automatically sets the drywall screw at the proper depth without tearing through the paper face of the drywall. The countersunk screw can then be covered with joint compound for a perfectly smooth finish.
Drywall Screw Setter Drill Bit
Plywood backer brace fastened with two screws. I started to set a 3rd screw in the metal runner then realized the screw head would interfere with the replacement panel. The two screws were plenty strong enough for the task.
Drywall Ceiling Repair Plywood Brace
SHEETROCK® Brand Repair Clips
Home improvement and hardware stores sell SHEETROCK® Brand Repair Clips – these are metal clips that are fit over the edges of the drywall hole to fasten a repair panel with screws. The SHEETROCK clips could be used in place of a wood brace and appear to be structurally sound, avoiding the sagging problem of the self-adhesive metal mesh patches.
This repair is continued in Part 3.
Take care,
Bob Jackson
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I am repairing a water leak ceiling in my bedroom. House built 1953, 5/8″ drywall that’s been repaired before. Old loose insulation plus new blow-in insulation above. Wood joists. Popcorn ceiling.
I cut a small 5″x3.5″ hole – so much fine dust and prickly, coarse dust! — it is not vermiculite insulation, but an old fibrous insulation, maybe 1/4″ layer. The new is more treated, cotton-like material. Outer edge of a hip roof.
How do I handle the insulation mess to find and toe-in cross pieces between joists to screw the dry wall to? Just plastic sheeting, masks, goggles, gloves, etc? Then how to replace insulation? Buy the rolled stuff and fill in before I screw in the new drywall? I’m 67 yrs old, and daughter of a carpenter, but haven’t tried this before. Thanks.
> it is not vermiculite insulation, but an old fibrous insulation
It’s probably “rock wool” insulation.
> How do I handle the insulation mess to find and toe-in cross pieces between joists to screw the dry wall to?
Do it the same way as building the 2×4 box for an air vent boot as shown in this project. Yes – a face mask, goggles and gloves are recommended.
I would replace the insulation with pink fiberglass – you can but it in rolls, batts or loose-fill bags as best suits your needs.
The home improvement stores sell spray cans of ceiling popcorn texture to help blend in the ceiling drywall repair.