This project is continued from Part 4.
The Fluidmaster Fill Valve kit includes a new flapper (top item in the photo below), but I couldn’t use it because the mounting ears on the overflow pipe appeared to be permanent attached and didn’t fit the Fluidmaster flapper. I therefore chose to keep the Korky® Toilet Flapper as it was in very good condition.
Korky and Fluidmaster Toilet Flappers
Install the flapper – either old or new one as it suits you – and reconnect the lift chain to the tank level. For details see this How To article.
Pre-Flush Checks
Verify the flapper valve falls completely closed and the lift chain is slightly slack.
Flapper Valve Closed and Lift Chain Slightly Slack
Press the flush handle a few times and see that everything works smoothly with the flapper raising and falling freely.
Flush Handle Pressed - Flapper Valve Open
Critical Level Mark
Is the water supply still shut off? Excellent! Verify the “critical level” mark on the fill valve is a minimum of 1 inch above the top of the fill tube to comply with code requirements. If the critical level is too low, the valve height needs to be adjusted. The “official” way to adjust the height is uninstall the fill valve and turn the shank to lengthen the fill valve. “Bwuh what?! But I just installed the d*mn thing! I’d have unscrew all the connections and remove the valve!” There is a simple shortcut:
- Verify the water supply valve is shut off.
- Lift the lock ring up the shank body.
- Grasp the gray valve body above the threaded shank – do not pull on the float cup or black valve cap.
- Pull the valve body to lengthen the valve height – you’ll hear/feel a couple of clicks.
- Slide the lock ring back down into place. Double check the lock ring is securely in its original place.
Remember – the lock ring is the only thing holding the valve body onto the shank.
Fill Valve Critical Level - 1 inch Above Overflow Pipe
Flush Testing and Tuning
Turn on the water supply and check for leaks as the tank fills with water. Gently tighten any connections if you find a leak. The new fill valve and water level should look like this photo.
Toilet Fill Valve, Flapper and Flush Arm Mechanism
Flush the toilet to verify the cycle works correctly. Water exits the fill valve near the bottom and the refill tube fills the bowl.
Fill Valve Refilling the Tank and Bowl
Adjust the Tank Water Level
The water level line should be marked by the manufacturer on the back of the tank. If not, the water level should be about 1 inch below the top of the overflow pipe.
Water Level Marked on Back of Tank
To raise or lower the water in the tank, turn the adjustment screw on the fill valve. This screw and rod controls the distance between the valve arm and the float cup. Flush the toilet to verify the final water level.
Water Level Adjustment Screw and Rod
An alternate perspective of the finished job.
New Toilet Fill Valve
Check the connections again and after one hour to be certain there are no leaks. Tighten any leaking connections as needed.
Take care,
Bob Jackson
Copyright © 2012 HandymanHowTo.com Reproduction strictly prohibited.
I found your instructions very helpful, but I have a leak at the connection of the water hose and the bottom of the toilet. I hand tightened the lock nut. And the instructions in the box said to “use the existing cone washer” because I have metal spiral tubing. Then I put on the new coupling nut and attached it. Nothing tells me how tight to tighten the coupling nut. I think everything works, but I have a leak under the coupling nut. What do I do about this leaking problem?
Thanks,
Donna
> the instructions in the box said to “use the existing cone washer” because I have metal spiral tubing.
You should always use new washers when replacing a fill valve or toilet connector hose because the old washers may be crushed or aged. I recommend replacing the connector hose with a new one that includes the cone washer such as the Brasscraft hose as illustrated in Part 3 and Part 4 of the project. Part 3 has a closeup of the cone washer. These are available for Lowes, Home Depot, etc. for several dollars.
Did you replace the fill valve and install a new shank washer? It could be leaking where the shank washer seals against the inside of the toilet tank. Be sure to clean any sediment deposits on the inside of the tank around the fill valve hose opening.
> Then I put on the new coupling nut and attached it. Nothing tells me how tight to tighten the coupling nut.
Sorry, I missed this question in my first reply. Tighten the coupling nut (wing nut) until it’s makes makes contact and seats against the cone washer, then tighten another 3/4 turn. It should be firm and snug, but you don’t want to crank down the nut and crush the cone washer. Overall it’s pretty forgiving, so do what feels right, check for a leak after 10 to 15 mins, then give it another 1/2 turn if there’s a drip.