This project is continued from Part 4.
The mesh screen flip-up gutter covers weren’t doing the job, so I installed bullnose style metal gutter covers that slide under the shingles. These gutter covers cost about $1.35/foot and are available in 4ft and 10ft lengths from a local gutter supply company. Here I’ve got the main section installed and about to install covers on the outside corner. These things get almost too hot to touch on a sunny day!
Metal Gutter Covers
The gutter covers serve two purposes:
- To keep debris out of the gutter while avoiding trash build-up on the roof like those flip-up metal covers I had on before.
- To keep squirrels out of the attic. Recall the gap between the roof deck and fascia board I described in Part 1.
The gutter covers appear to be working well. What I’ve been able to observe so far is even heavy rain is wicked into the gutter and leaves go over the side. Fall and Spring will be the real test. See this article for a detailed gutter cover project writeup.
Painting the Soffit and Fascia
I painted the gutter, fascia and soffit with Sherwin-Williams Duration Exterior Acrylic Latex paint. The Duration paint is thicker than standard paints, self-priming, low odor and dries quickly. You get maybe 4 or 5 brush strokes before it starts to thicken. The texture when dry is like a coat of plastic – impressive. I think the quality is right there with Benjamin-Moore MoorGlo® paint.
Sherwin-Williams Duration Exterior Paint
The Sherwin-Williams Duration paint is expensive – wait for a 25% off sale if you can. Visit your local Sherwin-Williams store and have them put your contact info. in their database (it’s free), you’ll receive e-mail coupons and sales notices.
The new soffit and fascia look great after painting. The last thing to do is install a soffit vent.
Soffit and Fascia Repair after Painting
Another view of the finished job.
Soffit and Fascia Repair After Painting
The soffit repair is done. Might as well do some more painting while I’ve got the scaffold.
Roof Ladder and Scaffold
I took advantage of the scaffold to clean & re-slope the gutters, install new gutter covers and do some painting and caulking on the windows and trim.
The soffit and fascia repair required about 4 hours once all the tools, roof brackets, ladders and scaffold were in place. I did the work over two different evenings, stopping only because it got dark on me.
The materials cost were:
- $21.97 for a 3/8″ x 4′ x 8′ sheet of sanded plywood for the soffit
- $31.28 for an 18′ x 1′ x 8′ piece of TUF board for the fascia
- $92.00 to rent the scaffold for 7-days
- ~$30.00 for gutter sealant, gutter screws, caulk and misc. supplies
- $40.00 to rent a Home Depot trunk ($19.95 each trip) to pickup and return the scaffold
- ~$58.00 for a gallon of Sherwin-Williams Duration paint. I bought several gallons while it was on sale.
I already had a good stock of exterior wood screws and all the tools I needed.
Hope this helps,
Bob Jackson
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Hi – thanks for the article. I have a small problem. Our roof decking and shingles hang so far over the edge of the rafters that there’s only 1.5″ or so of space in the gutter for rain to run into. So rain water flows over the gutters even in a medium rainfall. The gutters aren’t laid right & fascia needs replacing. What’s the best way to the guttering away from the roof line so that it collects more water. Should I cut several inches off the decking and shingles or build up the lookouts and fasica so it is farther away? If I cut the decking and shingles can I do it all at once or do I need to pull the shingles out, cut the decking and reinstall the shingles?
Thanks,
Hi Tim,
The roof sheathing (decking) should be cut back so it’s even with the rafter tails, then install new fascia, drip edge flashing or gutter apron, and gutters. The starter row of shingles will have to be removed so you can chalk a straight line and trim the roof sheathing with a circular saw.
Do the work on a sunny day when the shingles are warm and flexible so you don’t damage the 2nd row of shingles as you lift up the ends to remove the starter row. A new starter row of shingles will have to be installed.
I would install PVC or similar rot free fascia board with either an aluminum drip edge flashing or gutter apron. If using a drip edge flashing, install the gutter just below the drip edge kickout. If using a gutter apron (similar to a drip edge but without a kickout on the bottom edge) slip the gutter behind the apron. I personally like the drip edge because it supports the shingle overhang and keeps water from wicking down the fascia board.
Visit your local roofing supply store where the roofing contractors buy their materials and talk to the front desk staff for advice. They’ll have a dozen styles of drip edge flashing on display and everything you need for a DIY job. For example, in my neck of the woods, Commercial Roofing Specialties, Inc. has everything you can imagine and is really helpful.
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Thank you very much for taking the time to demonstrate how this is done. I have a similar problem where two facia boards meet and need to address it.
All the Best,
Matt