This project is continued from Part 1.
Now that I’ve purchased a replacement refrigerator water valve, water tubes and a John Guest® hose union, I’m ready to finish the repair.
The plastic tube for the chilled water door dispenser goes under the refrigerator and routes somewhere inside the refrigerator compartment – exactly where I don’t know. Replacing the entire door dispenser tube would require removing interior panels – way more effort than I want to get into. But there is another way – cut off the brittle and yellowed end of the heat damaged plastic water tube, then splice on a new section with the John Guest® union.
John Guest 5/16" Union to Repair Broken Refrigerator Water Tube
Be sure to keep the insulating jacket from the original tube.
Splicing Plastic Water Tube
Heat from the refrigerator compressor has damaged the upper section of the refrigerator door dispenser water tube, which has turned yellow and brittle. The tube was covered by the black fabric insulating jacket, but this only delayed the heat damage over several years.
I’ll cut off the yellowed section and splice the undamaged white section of water tube.
Brittle and Yellow Heat-Damaged Refrigerator Plastic Water Tube
After cutting off the damaged end of the plastic tube, the John Guest 5/16″ press-fit union is attached to make the splice.
John Guest® 5/16" Union Splice on Refrigerator Water Tube
A new section of 5/16″ plastic water tube is attached to the John Guest union.
Next, I fitted a new length of tube between the union and water valve (see the next two photos below):
- Cut a 1 foot or so length of new tubing from the roll – make it much longer than needed.
- Insert the tube into the John Guest Union.
- Hold the water valve bracket against the refrigerator frame in its mounting position. The valve bracket has a hook that fits in the refrigerator frame that makes this easy. You can also fasten the bracket with the single mounting screw if you need a third hand.
- Hold the end of the tube next to the water valve inlet, allowing about 1″ of length to insert the tube into the valve. Check the tube has a generous curve with no pinching or kinks. You’ll need to lay on the floor here to see under the valve.
- Make the cut. A utility knife works well.
- Insert the tube into the water valve.
- Check for kinks and pinches in the tube and union. Everything fits good?
- Unhook the valve bracket from the refrigerator frame and lay it on the floor.
- Measure and cut the insulation jacket to span the tube between the water valve and union.
- Press the quick connection ring on the water valve inlet and remove the tube.
- Slip the insulation jacket over the tube.
- Reinsert the tube into the water valve.
Spliced Refrigerator Water Tube with John Guest Union
Here’s the 5/16″ door dispenser water tube with the union and splice. I’ve also inserted the 1/4″ ice maker plastic water tube into the new valve, reusing the insulation jacket. Use the full 6 foot length of 1/4″ ice maker tubing – it’ll be fitted and cut to length in a later step.
Refrigerator Water Valve and Water Tube Replacement
Water Valve Mounting Bracket
Attach the wiring harness and fasten the water valve with the screw to the refrigerator.
Refrigerator Water Valve Bracket Attachment
Ice Maker Hookup
The ice maker water tube on my refrigerator simply lays against the back of the refrigerator and connects the the ice maker inlet near the top. Route the plastic tube behind the electrical cord and other hoses, taking care to avoid kinks and pinches. Allow about 1″ of tube for the ice maker inlet and cut off any excess length (> 4 inches) of tubing.
Before you insert the tube into the ice maker fitting, slip a small band clamp over the tube – see 2nd photo below. The ice maker fitting is very snug by itself and carries very little water pressure – if you don’t have a band clamp then a zip tie will do.
Refrigerator Ice Maker Water Tube Attachment
I used a small band clamp to secure the ice maker tube. Tighten the clamp lightly so as not to crush the rubber inlet or plastic tube, you don’t need much force here.
Ice Maker Water Tube and Band Clamp
Water Supply Hookup
Remove the black dust cover from the refrigerator water valve inlet and thread the water supply hose on by hand so as not to damage the threads. The compression fitting requires no plumbers tape or other sealant.
Refrigerator Water Supply Valve Hookup
After threading the hose on by hand, tighten the nut with a wrench. When the nut is snug, tighten an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Refrigerator Water Supply Hose Hookup
Leak Testing the New Valve and Tubes
Check that all fittings and the floor are dry, wiping up any water drips that may have fallen out of the water hoses.
With the refrigerator still unplugged, turn on the main water valve at the wall. Check the hose fittings and water valve for leaks with a flashlight. Feel around for any leaks. Everything leak free? If not, either tighten the hose nut and/or check your press-fit plastic tube connections are fully seated.
When your satisfied there are no leaks, plug in the refrigerator. Fill several glasses of water from the door dispenser to flush the lines and check for debris in the water. Open the freezer and make sure the ice maker arm is in the down position to trigger the ice maker operation.
Frigidaire Door Water Dispenser Testing
After 15 minutes, recheck for everything for leaks before calling it a success and rolling the refrigerator back against the wall. Take care not to pinch the water supply hose or roll over the electrical cord.
Repair Cost
My total cost for the repair parts was $64.63 consisting of:
- $33.01 for the GE Water Valve Part # WR57X10051
- $19.56 for the 5/16″ by ~6 foot door dispenser plastic water tube
- $4.20 for the 1/4″ by ~6 foot ice maker water tube
- $4.20 for the 5/16″ John Guest brand press-fit union
with $3.66 sales tax.
The repair required about 45 minutes.
Appliance Advice
The sales clerk at the appliance parts store was very knowledgeable and seemed to have the entire warehouse memorized. I asked “What’s the most reliable brand of appliance in your opinion?” Her advice was:
- Avoid all the “bells and whistles” when buying a new appliance because the high-tech features require computer electronics that tend not to last and require the replacement of a $500 circuit board when it breaks. Hmm, guess I won’t be buying that color touch screen refrigerator with WiFi Internet.
- Don’t buy foreign brands like Bosch and LG because her store doesn’t carry replacement parts. This isn’t a statement on quality, but the practicality of easily getting replacement parts.
While I was waiting at the counter, an appliance repairman who was picking up parts saw my water valve and cracked plastic tubing on the counter. He said he sees the heat damaged, brittle and leaking plastic water lines all the time, saying “It’s a common problem”.
Hope this helps,
Bob Jackson
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I HAVE A QUESTION. MY FRIDGE HAS BEEN LEAKING ON THE INSIDE BOTTOM AND I DONT KNOW HOW TO FIX IT OR WHAT CAUSED IT.
Does your refrigerator have an ice maker and/or chilled water door dispenser?
You’ll need to carefully pull the refrigerator away from the wall, being careful of the ice maker water line and power cord. Unplug the power cord. Try to locate the source of the leak with a flashlight.
If you’re uncertain where the leak is coming from, dry everything off and plug the refrigerator back in. Check again for the leak every 15 minutes for the next hour or so. Unplug the refrigerator before looking each time with the flashlight. When you’ve narrowed it down to a particular item or area, post back with a description – or better a photo – of the suspect area. Be sure to include the refrigerator make and model number. The mfg label is usually on the roof of the refrigerator compartment.