How to Repair a 2×4 Load Bearing Wall Stud – Part 3

Drywall, Maintenance | September 19, 2010 by Bob Jackson | 1 Comment

This project is continued from Part 2.

The drywall repair panel is fastened with screws and self-stick fiberglass joint tape applied. I didn’t install a screw in the center of the panel because the wall bowed slightly out with a ~3/8″ gap between the panel and center 2×4 stud. I could’ve installed a shim between the 2×4 stud face and the back of the panel for support so a center screw wouldn’t cause warping, but didn’t bother because the small ~20″ square panel was plenty rigid.

Repair Panel with Fiberglass Drywall Tape

Now I’m ready to begin finishing the drywall.

Drywall Finishing

Before you begin, have your bucket of drywall joint compound, 12″ drywall blade and 3″ or 4″ blade ready. You need to work promptly before thin layers of joint compound begins to dry out and can’t be worked. It’s also good idea to put a drop cloth over the carpet, too.

Drywall joint compound is applied to the taped seams with a 3″ putty knife to work the joint compound into the gap between the wall and repair panel. A thin coat of mud is all you need. Less is more.

Mudding the Taped Drywall Joints

Move quickly and apply the feather coat with the 12″ drywall blade. Keep the blade angle low (close to the wall) and move with a steady stroke and firm pressure, but not so hard you bow the blade inward. Remember – the less mud you put on, the less you’ll being sanding off later.

Feather Coat with 12" Drywall Blade

This is the first pass with the 12″ drywall blade. Notice the edges are feathered to near transparency. The goal is to make the wall and repair panel blend as a single flat surface with no high or low spots.

First Pass with the 12" Drywall Blade

You’ll only need one or two passes per side with the 12″ blade to apply the initial coat of joint compound before the thin edges of the feather coat will be too dry to continue working. When the joint compound gets too dry to work, it just balls up and curls as the blade passes over.

Wet Sanding

Allow the first coat of joint compound to dry for 24 hours, then wet sand with a drywall sanding sponge. Keep the sponge clean by squeezing and rinsing often in a bucket of cool water. Slide your hand over the surface to feel for high spots. Sand until you can’t feel any bumps or edges.

Wet Sanding the 1st Drywall Finish Coat

Final Finish Coat

After wet sanding, allow the wall to dry completely – an hour should be plenty. Then apply a final very thin coat of joint compound with the 12″ blade for an ultra smooth finish.

Finishing the Drywall Joints with the 12" Blade

This final coat should be so thin it’s almost transparent as shown here:

Final Finish Coat of Drywall Joint Compound

This side angle view gives an idea of the feathered edges and smooth sanded finish. Running your hand across the repair shouldn’t detect any seams, high or low spots. Just like the hole was never there.

Finished Drywall Repair - Side View

The repair almost vanishes after painting. The fresh coat of paint from the original can is slightly darker than the rest of the wall. The paint will blend in as it cures.

Drywall Repair after Painting

The last task was to turn off the circuit breaker, drill holes in the cross braces and reroute the 120VAC wire inside the framing to the electrical outlet. Technically, I should secure the wire leading into the top of the outlet box with a wire staple to the 2×4 stud.