This project is continued from Part 4.

Here’s a close up view of the 2×6 cedar porch rail sitting on the 2×2 support picket before fastening with screws.

2×6 Porch Rail: 2×2 Support Picket

Full view of the porch rail sitting on the post- and wall supports showing how it all fits together before fastening with screws.

2×6 Porch Rail Construction: Rail Sitting on Post and Wall Supports

2×6 Porch Rail Installation

The 2×6 top rail is fastened to the 2×4 support block by drilling 1/8″ strain relief holes to prevent splitting the cedar board, then three (3) corrosion resistant 2-1/2″ screws are driven. Take care to the drill and set the screws vertically so as not to break through the face of the 2×4 support block, which would weaken the joint.

2×6 Porch Rail Construction: Pre-drill Holes for Screws

1/8″ holes are drilled in the 2×4 side rail to prevent splitting, then the rail is fastened to the picket with two 2-1/2″ corrosion resistant screws.

2×4 Side Rail Attachment to the 2×2 Support Picket

Take care to drill the holes and set the screws straight for maximum joint strength.

2×4 Bottom Rail and 2×2 Picket Construction

The 2×4 bottom rail is set 36″ below the subrail (which is the length of a 2×2 picket), leveled and fastened to the 2×2 support picket with two screws just like the side rail in the above photo.

The other end of the bottom rail is fastened to the 8×8 porch post with two 3″ stainless steel screws set at a slant in a toenail fashion. To set the toe screws:

• Drill a shallow 1/8″ hole straight into the face of the subrail with a 1/8″ diameter drill bit. The purpose of the starter hole is to prevent the drill bit from sliding across the face of the 2×4 bottom rail when drilling at a slant. Try it first on a scrap of wood and you’ll see what I mean.
• Slant the drill bit 45° in the starter hole and drill the pilot holes for the toe screws.

Porch Rail Construction: 2×4 Bottom Rail and 2×2 Pickets

Prepare the pickets by marking and drilling 1/8″ stress relief holes for the 2-1/2″ screws in the 2×2 pickets.

Set the first picket, check for plumb with the carpenters level and fasten it with 2-1/2″ screws to the side- and bottom rails. The 2×4 spacer block is perfect for setting the pickets on 5 inch centers with a 3-1/2″ gap between pickets.

2×6 Porch Rail Construction: Installing the 2×2 Pickets

Every 5 pickets or so, check the picket is plumb with the carpenter’s level to prevent drifting off the vertical.

The 2×6 cedar porch rail with after installing the pickets:

2×6 Porch Rail Construction: Finished Picket Installation

Caulk the Joints

I caulked the joints along the wall and 8×8 porch post with white GE Silicone II* Paintable Silicone caulk to prevent rain water from wicking in behind the boards which would promote rot. Click on this photo for a full size view to see the caulk lines.

2×6 Porch Rail Construction: Caulk the Joints

I also placed a dab of caulk on all the screw heads, smoothed the caulk and painted the caulk lines.

Finished 2×6 Cedar Porch Rail

Here’s several photos of the finished project – turned out really nice if I do say so myself. I tested the rail with my 215 lb weight, leaning, pulling, pushing and sitting on it and found it to be very rigid and strong.

2×6 Cedar Porch Rail Construction

Outside view of the completed 2×6 porch rail:

2×6 Porch Rail Construction: Outside View

The porch rail improves the house and gives it a “finished” look:

2×6 Porch Rail Construction

All the rail needs is a couple of flower pots or maybe a flower box.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

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