How to Build a 2×6 Porch Rail – Part 5

This project is continued from Part 4.

Here’s a close up view of the 2×6 cedar porch rail sitting on the 2×2 support picket before fastening with screws.

2x6 Porch Rail: 2x2 Support Picket

 


Full view of the porch rail sitting on the post- and wall supports showing how it all fits together before fastening with screws.

2x6 Porch Rail Construction: Rail Sitting on Post and Wall Supports

 

2×6 Porch Rail Installation

The 2×6 top rail is fastened to the 2×4 support block by drilling 1/8″ strain relief holes to prevent splitting the cedar board, then three (3) corrosion resistant 2-1/2″ screws are driven. Take care to the drill and set the screws vertically so as not to break through the face of the 2×4 support block, which would weaken the joint.

2x6 Porch Rail Construction: Pre-drill Holes for Screws

 

1/8″ holes are drilled in the 2×4 side rail to prevent splitting, then the rail is fastened to the picket with two 2-1/2″ corrosion resistant screws.

2x4 Side Rail Attachment to the 2x2 Support Picket

 

Take care to drill the holes and set the screws straight for maximum joint strength.

2×4 Bottom Rail and 2×2 Picket Construction

The 2×4 bottom rail is set 36″ below the subrail (which is the length of a 2×2 picket), leveled and fastened to the 2×2 support picket with two screws just like the side rail in the above photo.

The other end of the bottom rail is fastened to the 8×8 porch post with two 3″ stainless steel screws set at a slant in a toenail fashion. To set the toe screws:

  • Drill a shallow 1/8″ hole straight into the face of the subrail with a 1/8″ diameter drill bit. The purpose of the starter hole is to prevent the drill bit from sliding across the face of the 2×4 bottom rail when drilling at a slant. Try it first on a scrap of wood and you’ll see what I mean.
  • Slant the drill bit 45° in the starter hole and drill the pilot holes for the toe screws.

Porch Rail Construction: 2x4 Bottom Rail and 2x2 Pickets

 

Prepare the pickets by marking and drilling 1/8″ stress relief holes for the 2-1/2″ screws in the 2×2 pickets.

Set the first picket, check for plumb with the carpenters level and fasten it with 2-1/2″ screws to the side- and bottom rails. The 2×4 spacer block is perfect for setting the pickets on 5 inch centers with a 3-1/2″ gap between pickets.

2x6 Porch Rail Construction: Installing the 2x2 Pickets

 

Every 5 pickets or so, check the picket is plumb with the carpenter’s level to prevent drifting off the vertical.

The 2×6 cedar porch rail with after installing the pickets:

2x6 Porch Rail Construction: Finished Picket Installation

 

Caulk the Joints

I caulked the joints along the wall and 8×8 porch post with white GE Silicone II* Paintable Silicone caulk to prevent rain water from wicking in behind the boards which would promote rot. Click on this photo for a full size view to see the caulk lines.

2x6 Porch Rail Construction: Caulk the Joints

 

I also placed a dab of caulk on all the screw heads, smoothed the caulk and painted the caulk lines.

Finished 2×6 Cedar Porch Rail

Here’s several photos of the finished project – turned out really nice if I do say so myself. I tested the rail with my 215 lb weight, leaning, pulling, pushing and sitting on it and found it to be very rigid and strong.

2x6 Cedar Porch Rail Construction

 

Outside view of the completed 2×6 porch rail:

2x6 Porch Rail Construction: Outside View

 

The porch rail improves the house and gives it a “finished” look:

2x6 Porch Rail Construction

 

All the rail needs is a couple of flower pots or maybe a flower box.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

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