This project is continued from Part 2.
Pop-Up Sink Drain – Pivot Rod Assembly
Before attaching the Pivot Rod (a.k.a. Ball Rod) to the pop-up sink drain, let’s look at the how this fits together.
The pivot rod consists of the following parts:
- A tapered plastic ball washer that acts as a bearing inside the rod opening.
- The pivot ball to enable the rotation of the pivot rod as it actuates the pop-up stopper.
- A pivot nut with a captive washer inside.
The two tapered washers are necessary for a water tight seal and smooth movement of the pivot rod.
An important installation detail is the plastic ball washer fits inside the rod opening with the tapered side facing outward to match the curve of the pivot ball as shown below. If the washer is missing or installed backwards, the joint will leak.
The pivot nut with its captive nut washer holds the pivot rod in place. Tighten the nut so it’s snug and leak free, but so much the pivot rod is hard to move back and forth.
Pivot Rod Installation
The taper ball washer is inserted into the rod open in the side of the sink drain body as shown:
- Slide the pivot nut over the rod as shown below.
- Insert the rod at a slight downward angle to catch the pop-up stopper.
When the rod engages the pop-up stopper, you’ll see the stopper bob up and down in the sink bowl. Give the pop-up stopper a tug to verify it has captured the end of the pivot rod. - Screw on the pivot nut until it’s snug.
Do not over tighten or you risk crushing the plastic ball washers. - Check the movement of the pivot rod. The rod should move smoothly, but stay in position when released.
Pivot Rod Spring Clip
Slip the spring clip on the end of the pivot rod as shown to attached it to the extension rod. The 2nd or 3rd hole in the extension rod is normally the best choice for adjust the height of the pop-up stopper. A nice thing about the pivot rod ball joint is it can be angled to one side in case there’s something the way such as the Studor Mini-Vent® stack in the case of my sink.
Work the faucet lift handle up and down to check the action on the pop-up stopper and verify the action feels right. If the handle falls under its own weight or feels sloppy, tighten the pivot nut washer slightly for a firmer feel.
Remember to peel off the blue plastic scratch protector from the pop-up stopper.
P-Trap Reassembly
The plastic slip washer can be reused if it’s not damaged and cleaned of all dirt and grime. I was able to clean the slip washer with soap and hot water followed by wiping it down with paper towels to remove the caked on scum. Also, wipe off the beveled end of the wall tube.
Slide the slip nut over the end of the pop-up drain followed by the slip washer with the beveled side facing down as shown:
The J-Bend installation is simple – just screw on the slip nuts to reattach it the P-Trap.
Leak Testing
Turn on the faucet and let the water run for a minute. Check all joints for leaks and tighten the nut(s) as needed to stop any leaks. My favorite leak detector is a piece of toilet paper to locate the smallest of leaks. Hold a section of toilet paper in your hand and wipe it around the various joints to find any non-obvious leaks.
Recheck the joints after 30 minutes to catch any slow leaks.
Hope this saves you some money!
Bob Jackson
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This was a super helpful post, Bob. Thanks for such clear explanations and great pictures!
You’re welcome!
Where to purchase an 11/16th inch “tapered ball washer” that got lost in cleaning drain process?
Ray
Home improvement and hardware stores will have a variety of pop-up sink drain repair kits and ball rod assemblies. If you have to buy a whole new pop-up drain just to get the correct size ball washer, it shouldn’t cost but $7 to $15.
Do hardware stores sell repair kits with 5 inch rods? I have only found kits with 6 inch rods and would rather not try to cut it down.
Not that I’m aware of. The spring clip is adjusted to change the effective lever arm length of the 6 inch pivot rod.
Do you have a clearance problem where the end of the pivot rod is bumping the back of the sink cabinet?
Yes, I don’t have enough clearance in the back of the cabinet. The rod I am replacing is only about 5 inches. Someone else installed our new sink when we remodeled so I’m not sure if it came that length in the kit or if the installer made an adjustment to the rod.
Use a hacksaw to cut the new pivot rod to your required length.
Thanks Bob, never put one in before but your hints about putty sure will help, i’m not a plumber but have done other stuff. So i guess this will be my next project.
Dang man. Great write up! I read another one right before I read this one that had 3 pictures and about 50 words.
Yeah, there’s a lot of web sites that crank out a huge amount of low quality content, often by writers who read about it somewhere else.