This project is continued from Part 7.
Dead valleys are a frequent source for roof leaks and special attention is needed when installing the new roof. Stucco walls require new step flashing and counter flashing. Kickout flashing is installed at the corners and roof end to direct water away from the wall.
Dead Valley Roof Installation Details
Dead valleys can be a problem for leaks because it tends to hold water and/or become clogged with leaves and other debris. Extra care is needed when installing the new roof to make the dead valley water tight.
Roof Dead Valley Ice and Water Shield
GAF StormGuard® leak barrier (ice and water shield) is installed in the dead valley and run several inches up the stucco wall. The low slope porch roof is also covered with StormGuard applied over the roofing felt.
Stucco Wall Kickout and Step Flashing
In the next photo, a large section of kickout flashing is cut and formed from a roll of coil flashing to direct water away from the wall at the end of the roof. The kickout flashing is essentially a piece of step flashing installed over the starter strip shingle. The exposed flashing is spray painted gray for appearances.
Also notice the roof felt is set underneath the old step flashing along the stucco wall. The old step flashing can’t be removed without damaging the stucco, so it is left in place.
Sections of black factory-painted step flashing are interleaved with the shingles in the normal way:
Roof Corner Flashing
The corner flashing is composed of several layers of step flashing, coil flashing, ice and water shield and kickout flashing as illustrated in the next set of photos.
The last piece of black step flashing is installed over the shingle at the wall corner:
Next, a piece of step flashing for the corner is made from a roll of galvanized metal flashing. The corner flashing is cut to shape with tin snips, folded and bent to wrap around the corner of the wall and lay on the dead valley. Galvanized flashing must be used here because aluminum flashing will crack when bent and folded, inviting a leak.
The ice and water shield is laid over the corner step flashing. The ice and water shield is very sticky and will seal itself to the galvanized corner flashing with the daytime heating.
A piece of kickout flashing is made from roll flashing to divert water away from the wall at the corner and installed at the dead valley. The exposed area is spray painted with gray roofing paint to blend in with the roof.
Another view of the corner kickout flashing. I now have two kickouts along the stucco wall: at the corner and bottom of the roof.
Dead Valley Step Flashing & Apron Flashing
Additional sections of galvanized roll flashing are cut to size to install the gray painted step flashing and apron (or headwall) flashing in the dead valley. The apron flashing is the piece in the center of the dead valley that lays on top of the shingles. A roll of GAF StormGuard ice and water shield is in the foreground.
Stucco Wall Counter Flashing
Factory painted black counter flashing is installed over the step flashing. The counter flashing is mechanically fastened to the stucco wall with hammer drive anchors (a.k.a. “nail drive anchors”). The hammer drive anchor heads are sealed with BASF SONOLASTIC NP1.
Detail of the stucco wall counter flashing and kickout at the wall corner. The top of the counter flashing has a lip that extends away from the wall so it can be filled with a high quality long lasting sealant such as NP1 to form a watertight seal against the stucco.
Another view of the stucco counter flashing and dead valley:
Closeup of the stucco wall counter flashing, two kickouts and transition to the porch roof. The counter flashing was cut to fit over the lower kickout flashing, then the joint sealed with SONOLASTIC NP1. The counter flashing covers the apron flashing (headwall flashing) on the porch roof – I’ll describe this in more detail in a following article.
Photo of the new roof showing the stucco wall counter flashing, dead valley and transition to the porch roof. Two other details are:
- I replaced the rotted soffit and fascia board on the left where it meets the roof.
See the next installment of this series (coming soon) for the details of that job.
- I added a gutter downspout extension to carry the water further away from the wall.
This series is continued in Part 9.
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