This project is continued from Part 8.
The new porch roof details are illustrated with the stucco apron/headwall flashing and counter flashing installation steps. A section of rotted soffit and fascia board are also replaced.
Low Slope Porch Roof Installation
The roofing crew has finished installing the new roof on the back and right sides of the house and are now working on the front. GAF StormGuard® leak barrier (ice and water shield) is installed in the roof valleys, then the GAF Shingle-Mate® roofing felt is stapled to the roof deck.
The low slope (3/12 pitch) porch roof is covered with a layer of GAF Shingle-Mate fiberglass reinforced roofing felt (equivalent to 30 lb felt).
Then the GAF StormGuard ice and water shield is installed on the low slope roof. Low pitch roofs shed water more slowly than steep roof and are more prone to water working under the shingles due to wind blown rain and ice dams. The peel & stick ice water shield forms a waterproof membrane that seals around roofing nails and overlapping sections to keep the roof deck dry. My roofing contractor would only provide a 2 year warranty on the low pitch porch roof for these reasons.
The next photo is low pitch porch roof with a layer of gray ice and water shield. Notice how the GAF StormGuard ice and water shield is laid up the stucco walls on both sides.
Another view of the ice and water shield:
Roof-to-Wall Apron Flashing Installation
Long sections of galvanized Apron Flashing (also known as Headwall Flashing) with a 110 degree angle are installed where the porch roof meets the stucco wall. The 10 foot long sections of apron flashing with are spray painted “frost gray” with roof flashing paint to better blend with the roof.
The apron flashing lays on top of the shingles to shed water and will be covered by counter flashing:
A piece of straight flashing extends past the outside corner to make a kickout, followed by two pieces of black step flashing.
Sections of black counter flashing are fastened to the roof with hammer drive anchors (nail drive anchors). The counter flashing lip and joints are caulked with BASF SONOLASTIC NP1 for a watertight seal against the stucco wall. The hammer drive anchors are also sealed with NP1. Notice the attention to detail where the kickout section of counter flashing (black metal tab) is bent over the gray corner flashing to keep the two pieces from spreading.
Another view of the wall corner counter flashing and apron flashing. The nail heads in the gray apron flashing are sealed with NP1 (yellow square).
Complete view of the porch roof and stucco wall counter flashing, apron flashing and corner treatment:
Stucco Wall Counter Flashing and Kickout Flashing
A section of galvanized roll flashing is cut, folded and bent to make a rain diverter kickout where the roof ends at the stucco wall.
Bottom view showing how the roll flashing is folded to make a kickout rain diverter. Galvanized steel flashing must be used because aluminum will crack and leak when bent this way.
The kickout flashing is installed followed by black step flashing interleaved with the shingles. Notice how the gray GAF Stormguard ice and water shield runs up the stucco wall behind the flashing.
Closeup detail of the galvanized kickout flashing to direct the water away from the stucco wall and into the gutter. If you look closely, the kickout flashing goes over the starter shingle that’s just peeking out to the left of the kickout flashing.
The black counter flashing is fastened to the stucco wall with hammer drive anchors (masonry fasteners). The counter flashing is painted at the factory and covered by a plastic film to protect against scratches. Note how the counter flashing is cut to fit over the kickout flashing at the roof end.
The lip of the counter flashing, masonry anchor heads and kickout flashing slot are sealed with BASF SONOLASTIC NP1:
Rotted Soffit and Fascia Board Repair
The wood fascia board and plywood soffit were rotted where the wood contacted the roof and wicked up water. The roofers installed a piece of rain diverter flashing behind the fascia board to direct water away from the soffit, but the wood fell apart due to the rot.
While the roofing crew was busy elsewhere, I removed the gutter, rotted fascia board and soffit. It was badly deteriorated where it contacted the roof. Water stains inside the soffit extend to the soffit vent:
I installed a new section of 1″ x 8″ AZEK PVC plastic trim board (available at Home Depot), new section of soffit plywood and soffit vent. AZEK PVC trim board is rot- and insect proof. The job involved lots of cussing because the plywood soffit was stapled to the 2×4 lookouts through the crown molding, making it difficult to remove. I reinstalled the fascia and soffit with wood screws. The gutter was reattached with gutter spikes, pop rivets and the seams sealed with gutter sealant. The soffit joints were sealed with exterior silicone caulk.
The roofing crew later sealed the soffit-to-roof joint with white colored SONOLASTIC NP1 caulk (yellow arrow). I added the gutter extension to direct the rain water well away from the house.
I painted the soffit and fascia with Sherwin Williams Duration® exterior latex paint. The soffit was now better than new!
This series is continued in Part 10.
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