This project explains how to install faux wood window blinds in this final update of How To Build a Basement Closet. The bi-fold closet doors were installed in the previous project.

Faux Wood Window Blind Installation

I measured the basement bedroom windows per the Home Depot Window Treatment Measuring Guide for inside mount window blinds. The windows blinds in my home are inside mount, which means the windows blinds fit inside the window frame for a better degree of privacy.

I purchased three sets of the Home Decorators Collection White Premium Faux Wood Blind 2-1/2 in. Slats, 64 in. long by 31 in. wide, model #10793478066988. (Measure and purchase the width that fits your windows.) My local Home Depot had the blinds in stock with no trimming or cutting necessary.

The Home Decorators wood blind installation instructions apparently are not available on Home Depot’s website, however the Levolor Custom Real & Faux Wood Blind – Installation Instructions are nearly identical.

Home Decorators Collection White Premium Faux Wood Blind 2-1/2 in. Slats

The box brackets are installed first in the top corners of the window frame. Open the box bracket by pressing on the locking tab – the hinge swings upward – and mark the mounting holes inside the window frame:

Wood Window Blind Box Bracket Installation

Because the box bracket will be attached to the 3/4 inch thick window frame board with screws, I elected to drill 1/8″ pilot holes for strain relief to avoid splitting the board when driving the mounting screws. My DeWalt cordless drill/driver was too bulky to drill the top mounting bracket hole, so I grabbed my Dremel Tool and Flex Shaft attachment to drill the pilot hole:

Dremel Tool Wand Extension for Strain Relief Pilot Holes

The window blind box bracket is fastened to the window frame with two Simpson Strong-Drive SD8X1.25 wood screws instead of the smaller screws included with the blinds:

Window Blind Box Bracket Installation

Install the box bracket for the other side of the window the same way.

The headrail slides into the box brackets, then the bracket snaps shut to secure the headrail:

Window Blind Headrail Installed in the Box Bracket

The wrap-around crown valence is assembled with clips:

Window Blind Crown Valance Assembly

I had a small problem when attempting to mount the crown valence to the headrail; the valence returns which resulted in an ~1 inch gap between the valence mounting clips and the headrail. To fit the valence to the headrail:

• I removed the valence returns from the main valence.
• Mounted the valence to the headrail with the provided clips.
• Measured the distance from the window casing to the valence.
  This is the (shorter) required length for the valence returns.
• Cut the valence returns to the necessary length on my DeWalt compound miter saw.
• Re-attached the valence returns to the valence.
• Clipped the valence to the headrail.

Window Blind Installation: Crown Valence is Too Long

Other than shortening the valence returns, the blinds were easy to install.

Finished Basement Bedroom

The basement bedroom remodeling project is now complete! Time to go shopping for bedroom furniture.

Basement Bedroom Window Blind Installation

The basement bedroom closet:

Basement Bedroom Closet Construction

Basement Closet Bi-Fold Doors:

Basement Bedroom Closet Bi-Fold Doors

Perspective view of the semi-free standing basement bedroom closet:

Basement Bedroom Closet

Take care,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Install Faux Wood Window Blinds appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project shows how to install a bi-fold closet door in this update of How To Build a Basement Closet. The closet door jambs and casing were installed in the previous project.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Installation

I purchased two Masonite “Full Louver Prefinished White Plantation Closet Door Bi-Fold” 24 in. by 80 in. door units at Home Depot because two 24 inch door units are needed to span the 4 foot wide finished closet door opening and the prefinished doors do not need painting. Bi-fold doors are a good choice for closets because the doors are easy to install and provides ventilation so the closet doesn’t get musty.

Masonite Full Louver Prefinished White Plantation Closet Bi-Fold Door Model # 25437

The Masonite Plantation Bi-Fold Closet Door includes the installation hardware (jamb bracket, 2 foot door track, door pivots, screws, etc.) and printed installation instructions. A really good set of bi-fold door installation instructions are here.

Masonite Plantation Closet Bi-Fold Door Hardware and Instructions

Bi-Fold Door Track Installation

The door track is installed first. Two sections of 2 foot long door track are joined by inserting the door track alignment bracket. The door snugger fits between the two door panels and is inserted into the door track before joining.

Masonite Bi-Fold Door Track Assembly

The door track alignment bracket has a dimple in the middle for centering the bracket in the door tracks:

Masonite Bi-Fold Door Installation: Door Track Assembly

Since my closet door width is 4 feet wide, I didn’t need to shorten the metal door track with a hack saw.

The door track is mounted in the center of the overhead door jamb with wood screws set in the factory made holes along the bracket. I used Simpson Strong-Drive SD8X1.25 wood screws to mount the door track instead of the screws included with the door kit because I preferred the wide pan head and thicker threads of the Simpson screws.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Track Installation

Bi-Fold Closet Door Jamb Bracket

The center of the side door jamb is measured and marked, then the metal jamb bracket is fastened to the jamb with two Simpson Strong-Drive SD8X1.25 wood screws. Compare the Simpson SD8 x 1.25 inch wood screws (left side of photo) with the Masonite screws included with the door kit (right side of photo). I decided not to install a masonry anchor in the 3rd jamb bracket mounting hole because the two wood screws were sufficient. Recall that my door jambs are nailed directly to the 2×4 studs with no shims so the wood screws are in the 2×4 stud for a very sturdy attachment.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Installation: Jamb Bracket

Install the door jamb bracket for the other door the same way.

Bi-Fold Door Top Pivots

The door bi-fold door panels are identical and can be installed on either the left or right side of the closet doorway. (As my chemistry professor would say, the doors are not chiral.)

Stand up the bi-fold door panel and set it in front of the closet door opening so the door is correctly oriented. Note which side is top, left and right as it’s easy to get confused.

Lay the door on the floor then tap in the roller guide pivot (part with the plastic wheel) and door pivot pin. The door pivot pin will be closest to the door jamb and the roller guide pivot will be at the center of the doorway. The top pins are spring-loaded to automatically adjust to height of the door opening.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Installation: Top Pivots

The bottom pivot pin has a knurled cone shape and is installed in the door panel on the same side as the top pivot pin. The bottom pivot is threaded to adjust the door height and level the doors. That extra hole on the bottom remains empty.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Installation: Bottom Pivot Pin

Repeat the procedure the other door: stand the door up, note the orientation and tap in the top and bottom pins.

Bi-Fold Door Placement and Leveling

Stand the door up and set the top pivot pin (left side) in the pivot bracket. Lift the door and set the bottom pivot pin the jamb bracket slot. Next, press the roller guide down and pop it into the door track.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Installation

Level the bi-fold door vertically by:

• Lift the door up to move the bottom pivot in the jamb bracket slot the door has clearance with the door jamb.
• Loosen the top pivot bracket screw to move the bracket until the door is vertical and aligned with the side jamb.
  Tighten the screw to keep the final adjustment.

Bi-Fold Door Installation: Vertical Level Adjustment

Install the second bi-fold door panel in the closet doorway.

With both doors installed and leveled vertically, level the doors horizontally – the top of both doors are equal height when closed – by lifting the door up and spinning the bottom pivot pin as needed to adjust the door height. You may need to fine tune the vertical and horizontal door leveling by repeating the above steps:

• Reposition the bottom pivot pin(s) the door jamb bracket slot.
• Loosen and adjust the top pivot bracket(s).
• Raise or lower the door(s) by spinning the bottom pivot pin(s).

One or two iterations should do it.

Close the doors and check the spring snugger is centered and the doors are even with a minimal gap in the center:

Bi-Fold Door Installation: Spring Snugger and PVC Quarter Round Moulding

Given that the bi-fold doors can be installed in a left or right hand configuration, holes for the door knobs must be drilled after the door is installed.

I made a mistake when locating the door knobs due to the generic Masonite door instructions. The door knob should be installed in the center board between the upper and lower panels for better leverage. See the correction in the 3rd photo below. I’ll drill a new hole and relocate the door pull later.

Bi-Fold Door Installation: Drill a Hole for the Door Knob

The door knob is attached from the back of the door with the long screw provided with the door kit:

Bi-Fold Door Knob Installation

Bi-Fold Door Quarter Round Moulding

The bi-fold doors are trimmed with PVC quarter round mounding to cover the gap along the door jambs and to hide the door track hardware. The quarter round moulding has been installed on right door jamb. I’m ready to measure, saw and install the moulding on the left door jamb. The moulding is fastened with 1-1/2 inch brad nails.

Bi-Fold Closet Door Installation: PVC Quarter Round Moulding

Closet Shelf Installation

I purchased several ClosetMaid clothes racks and shelves at the local home improvement store:

• Superslide Shelf Kit – 6 foot for hanging clothes and general storage
• 3 ft. x 12 in. Ventilated Wire Shelf Kit for extra side storage
• Hanging Wire Shelf

Total cost for the shelving items was about $60.

ClosetMaid Wire Shelves

The 6 foot long Superslide Shelf was a bit too long to fit between the side walls. The wire shelf was cut to fit with a bolt cutters, but a hacksaw will also do.

The ClosetMaid shelf kits include plastic drywall anchors and mounting nails. It’s best not to use the included drywall anchors and nails because these can tear out of the drywall and fail under heavy load, dumping the shelf contents on the floor.

Instead, I located the 2×4 wall studs with a stud finder and mounted the shelf support brackets and clips to the studs with Simpson Strong-Drive SD8X1.25 wood screws.

ClosetMaid Wire Shelves

View of the basement closet after installing the bi-fold doors:

Basement Closet Bi-Fold Doors

The faux wood blinds are installed in the next update of this series.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Install a Bi-Fold Closet Door appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project shows how to install door jambs and casing for a bi-fold door in this update of How To Build a Basement Closet. This series is continued from the Plywood Cap & Outside Corner Moulding Installation.

Bi-Fold Doors, Door Jambs and Door Casing

The materials for finishing the basement closet door are:

• Two bi-fold door units to span the 4 foot wide finished door opening.
  I purchased the Masonite “Full Louver Prefinished White Plantation Closet Door Bi-Fold” 24 in. by 80 in. door unit at Home Depot.
• Three pieces of finger jointed ready-to-install 11/16 in. thick by 4-9/16 in. wide by 81-11/16 in. long door jamb purchased at Home Depot.
• Six 8 feet long pieces of 11/16 in. by 2 1/4 in. Pine Primed Finger-Jointed Casing.
  Door casing is sold by the foot and cut to length from 16 foot stock. Note: Only 3 pieces of door casing are shown in the photo.

Basement Closet: Bi-Fold Doors, Door Jambs and Door Casing

Details of the Masonite 24 in. x 80 in. bi-fold door. I chose this door because it’s prefinished and doesn’t need painting if you want a white door.

Masonite Full Louver Prefinished White Plantation Closet Door Bi-Fold 24 in. x 80 in.

The ready-to-install 4916PFJ 11/16 in. by 4-11/16 in door jamb:

4916PFJ 11/16 in. by 4-11/16 in Door Jamb

Close-up of the pre-cut rabbet in the door side jamb so the head jamb fits flush.

Pre-Cut Door Jamb Rabbet for the Head Jamb, Model 4916PFJ

Closet Door Jamb Installation

A door rough opening is typically built 2.5 inches wider and 2 inches taller than the finished door to allow for irregularities in the 2×4 framing and provide space for the two 11/16 inch thick door jambs. The door jambs are then “trued up” during installation with shims placed between the 2×4 rough opening and door jamb.

As explained in How to Build a Basement Closet – Part 3, I worked carefully using precise measurements and very straight 2×4 lumber to build the rough opening square, plumb, 81-11/16 in. high and 46-5/8 in. wide. After installing the two 11/16 inch thick side jambs (equals 1-3/8 inches total thickness), the finished door opening will be 48 inches (48 = 46-5/8 minus 1-3/8). The result is my door jambs do not require shims. I personally don’t like shimming door jambs because a large part of the jamb will be unsupported.

Door Jamb Header

The two side jambs are temporarily set in place, checked for plumb and fastened with a single 1-1/2 inch brad nail. Then, the length of the header jamb is measured from rabbet-to-rabbet.

Closet Door Side Jambs

The header jamb is cut from a length of side jamb stock, using the section without the rabbet because the header does not need the rabbet groove.

Sawing the Door Header Jamb

The header jamb fit is checked by slipping it in the side jamb rabbets:

Door Jamb Installation: Fitting the Header Jamb

The header jamb is slipped off the side jambs, then the side jambs are pulled free of the rough opening. The single brad nail that temporarily held the side jambs in place pulls out easily.

The header jamb is fitted and squared with the side jamb, then the side jamb is fastened to the header with a couple of 1-1/2 inch brad nails. Be careful to drive the brad nails straight so it doesn’t exit the surface of the header jamb. The other side jamb is  the same method.

Door Jamb Assembly: Side and Head Jambs

The assembled door jambs are stood up and ready to be set in the rough opening.

Closet Door Jamb Installation

The door jambs are set even with the closet drywall, checked for square and nailed to the 2×4 framing with 2 inch long six-penny (“6d”) finishing nails.

Check Door Jambs for Square

The finish nails are set in side-by-side pairs spaced 1 inch horizontally and ~16 inches vertically along the jambs. Nail both the side- and header jambs with 6d nails.

Door Jamb Installation: 6d Finish Nails

The nails are countersunk (i.e. the nail head is driven ~1/8 inch below the door jamb surface) with a nail punch. (If you don’t have a nail punch, a 16d nail can be used to countersink the finish nails.) The nail heads will be filled with wood putty and sanded flush with the wood surface before painting.

Closet Door Casing Installation

The 2-1/4 inch wide door casing was chosen because it matches the door casing in my home. The inside finished height of the door is measured and 1/4 inch is added for the casing setback (see the casing detail in the 3rd photo below). Then the 45 degree miter cut made on the Dewalt Compound Miter saw. Measure and install the side casings first, then the door header casing.

Closet Door Casing Miter Cut

The door casing is fastened with 2 inch brad nails. The brad nail gun does a great job without jarring the work piece and automatically countersinks the brad nails.

Building a Basement Closet: Door Casing

Closeup of the door jamb and door casing installation. Notice how the door casing is set back about 1/4 inch from the face of the door jamb for a bit fancier trim detail.

Door Jamb and Door Casing Installation Details

Door casing installation details at the concrete floor:

Door Casing Installation Details

The completed door jamb and casing installation after filling and sanding the brad & finish nail heads with wood putty. I’ve also painted the closet walls. The closet door jambs, casing and outside corner moulding will be painted next.

Door Jamb and Door Casing Installation

The bi-fold doors, baseboard and clothes racks will be installed in the next project update.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Install Door Jambs and Casing for a Bi-Fold Door appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

The plywood closet cap is installed in this update of How To Build a Basement Closet. This project is continued from Basement Closet Drywall Finishing.

Closet Light Electrical Permit Inspection

I filed for a building permit to cover the new electrical circuit for the closet light and left the 2×4 wall and closet ceiling open for the inspector to inspect the new wiring. The building inspector looked at the NM-B 14/2 wiring for proper installation, checked that all junction boxes – including the ceiling light octagon box – were grounded and the outlets correctly wired. (Note: The steel light switch box does not have to be grounded.) The building inspector confirmed NM-B cable is acceptable in Wiremold raceways so long as the outer insulation jacket is not removed. He said “Nice work!” and signed my permit for the final inspection.

Drywall Closure

I shutoff the electricity at the circuit breaker panel because I’ll be working with the closet light switch (a.k.a. toggle switch) as I measure for the drywall and mount the toggle switch to the box.

With the electrical inspection behind me, I can close up the closet by installing the final section of drywall. A drywall panel is cut from a 1/2 in by 4 ft by 10 ft sheet to fit around the closet door. This wastes most of the drywall sheet, however it’s best to install the largest section of drywall possible to minimize joints and achieve the best appearance. Click on the image for a full size view.

Building a Basement Closet: Drywall Panel Installation

Since I’ve already wired the light switch, I’ll make careful measurements and mark the drywall for the switch box cutout. An alternate approach would be the “bump” method to make an imprint of the switch box on the back of the drywall as I did for the octagon ceiling box. However, in the interest of making productive use of my time while scheduling the building inspector appointment, I went ahead and wired the closet light circuit.

Remember the electricity has been shutoff at the circuit breaker.

Measuring the Switch Box for Fitting the Drywall

The wired light switch was simply poked through the drywall cutout for the steel switch box (the circuit breaker is Off), then the drywall panel installed in the normal way with coarse thread drywall screws.

The last section of drywall after installation and finishing. The light switch won’t be mounted to the switch box until I’ve painted the drywall.

Basement Closet Construction: Drywall Installation

How to Build a Basement Closet: Plywood Cap Installation

Drywall or Plywood Closet Roof

I debated whether it would be best to install drywall or plywood for the closet cap (or roof it you prefer). The 2×4 closet ceiling joists are load bearing and can support a substantial weight, including my 215 lb frame without so much as a creak or wobble.

If I capped the closet with 1/2 inch drywall, I thought it would only be a matter of time before someone (perhaps a future homeowner) either climbed on top of the closet or used it for extra storage space and broke through the drywall.

Plywood Closet Roof

I decided to install 1/2 inch cabinet grade plywood for the closet roof for strength and durability. I can now use the space over the closet for extra storage or work platform should I ever need to install an access panel in the suspended drywall ceiling to get at crawlspace. (I can’t image why I’d ever need to work in the crawlspace ;-) maybe to fix a plumbing problem or run new wiring.)

The 1/2 in by 4 ft by 8 ft sheet of cabinet grade plywood is set on the closet to mark the dimensions for sawing. This was easy, I just ran a pencil along the edge of the drywall.

Basement Closet Construction: 1/2 inch Plywood Cap

I made the first cut with my circular saw by:

• Laid the plywood on 2x4s for clearance over the concrete floor.
• Clamped an aluminum channel as a saw guide to the plywood sheet.
  The aluminum channel must be setback from the pencil line to align the saw blade with the line.
• Adjusted the saw blade depth to about 3/4 inches so it’s well clear of the floor.
• Rechecked alignments, floor clearance and any obstructions, then made the saw cut.

Building a Basement Closet: Sawing the Plywood Cap

The second circular saw cut is made the same way. Notice the offset between the aluminum saw guide and the cut edge so the blade is aligned with the pencil line.

Building a Basement Closet: Plywood Cap 2nd Cut

A really neat thing is the saw dust vacuums off SkimStone concrete floor very cleanly.

The 1/2 inch plywood closet cap ready for installation:

Building a Basement Closet: Plywood Cap Ready to Install

The plywood cap is set on top of the closet for fastening with wood screws:

Basement Closet Construction: 1/2″ Plywood Cap

I made small pencil marks on the wall for the centers of the 2×4 ceiling joists then drew a straight line with the 4 foot level to locate the joists. I also made careful note of where the NM-B 14/2 cable was run through the bore holes in the 2×4 joists so as not to set a wood screw into the cable. The 2 inch bugle head deck screws were driven in a regular pattern and set even with the plywood surface.

Building a Basement Closet: Plywood Cap Mounted with Wood Screws

Outside Corner Moulding Installation

Outside corner moulding purchased at the local home improvement store is installed to cover the edge of the plywood cap and drywall. I measured and made the 45 degree miter cut on my Dewalt Compound Miter saw:

Outside Corner Moulding: Miter Cut

The outside corner moulding is fastened to the edge of the closet wall with 1-1/2 inch brad nails set in the side and top. The brad nailer is a wonderful tool!

Outside Corner Moulding: Fastening with Brad Nails

Outside corner moulding and the 45 degree corner miter cut as viewed from above the closet:

Closet Outside Corner Moulding: Top View

Trimming out the closet walls with outside corner moulding will look really nice when painted:

Basement Closet: Outside Corner Moulding

The plywood cap deck screws and wall joints are filled with paintable silicone caulk:

Basement Closet Construction: Plywood Cap and Outside Corner Moulding

Now that the drywall is finished, I can install the door jambs, door casing and bi-fold doors in the next project update (coming soon!).

Take care,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Build a Basement Closet: Plywood Cap Installation appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project shows how to finish the basement closet drywall this installment of How To Build a Basement Closet. For the prior installment of this series, see wiring the closet light circuit.

Basement Closet Drywall Finishing

After cutting and hanging the drywall, it must be “finished” to cover the screws or nails, corners and seam between the drywall sheets taped to cover the gaps, corner bead installed to protect the outside corners, then sanded and painted. See the SHEETROCK® Installation and Finish Guide by USG Corp for a comprehensive guide to drywall installation and finishing.

The key to finishing drywall is: the less joint compound spread on the walls and care taken to feather the edges with the drywall taping knife, the less time you’ll spend sanding.

Drywall Finishing Tools and Materials

I used the following tools and material to finish the basement closet drywall (from left to right in the following photo):

• 4 inch Taping Knife
  Good for filling the screw head dimples with joint compound and scraping joint compound residue off the wider taping knives.
• 6 inch Taping Knife
  Great for mudding corners, seams and drywall joint tape.
• 12 inch Taping Knife
  Essential for feathering seams and edges.
• 4 in. x 3.5 in. Inside Corner Tool
  Mudding and taping inside corners.
• Drywall Mud Pan
  I purchased an inexpensive 14 inch wide plastic pan with metal rims.
• SHEETROCK® Brand All-Purpose Pre-Mixed Joint Compound.
  The closet required two 1 gallon buckets. Also available in 5 gallon buckets.
• Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Corner Tape.
• Self-Adhesive Mesh Drywall Joint Tape.

Drywall Finishing Tools and Materials

You’ll also need drywall corner bead, scissors, tape measure, pencil and a drywall sanding sponge.

Drywall Screw Dimples

The drywall screw dimples are finished with a thin coat of drywall joint compound applied with the 4 inch taping knife. Nothing complicated here, just a lot of busy work. Try to avoid pressing too hard with the taping knife because it can flex and bow inward leaving a small depression over the dimple, which means you’ll have to apply a 2nd feather coat to level the depression.

Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Corner Tape

I saw Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Corner Tape on the store shelf while purchasing drywall finishing supplies, studied the box and decided to give it a try. Strait-Flex is significantly more expensive than paper drywall tape, but it makes up for the price in the labor savings, strength and perfect 90° corners.

Strait-Flex is a PVC plastic-based product that’s sandable and won’t fuzz-up. The Strait-Flex product YouTube videos are a very good overview.

Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Corner Tape

I lightly sanded the painted wall along a 6 inch wide path to “break the shine” so the joint compound would better adhere to the painted surface.

Next, I cut two sections of Strait-Flex inside corner tape for the closet drywall corners, folded the tape in half then opened the angle a bit wider than 90° degrees per the Strait-Flex instructions.

Strait-Flex Medium Inside Corner Tape Installation

A generous ~3/16 inch thick bed of pre-mixed joint compound is spread on the inside corner with a 6 inch taping knife:

Strait-Flex Medium: Drywall Joint Compound Bed

I stippled the Strait-Flex medium drywall tape into the joint compound so it would stick before wiping it down with the inside corner tool.

Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Tape Corner Installation

The Strait-Flex is pressed and smoothed into the joint compound with the inside corner tool. The joint compound will squeeze-out through the slotted edges. Strait-Flex automatically “finds the corner” for perfect and straight corners. Very cool and fool-proof!

Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Tape Installation: Inside Corner Tool

The Strait-Flex is finished with a feather coat of all-purpose drywall joint compound with the 6 inch drywall knife. A light sanding to knock down the outside bead of joint compound where it rolled off the edge of the knife and I’m done here!

Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Tape: Finish Coat of Joint Compound

The basement bedroom closet corner after installing two more sections of Strait-Flex Medium drywall tape:

Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Tape: Inside Corner Installation

I also finished the closet interior corners with Strait-Flex Medium drywall tape with very satisfactory results.

Tip: Check your taping knife often and scrape off any joint compound that’s starting to dry into the trash because a tiny bit of dry compound will leave gouges in the wet compound.

Taping Drywall Butt Joints

The drywall butt joints where two drywall panels meet are taped with self-stick mesh tape:

Taping Drywall Butt Joints

The butt joint is finished with thin coat of joint compound using the 12 inch taping knife to feather seam:

Drywall Butt Joint Finishing

Drywall Corner Bead Installation

Drywall corner bead is used to strengthen, protect and make a nice straight edge. Drywall corner bead is available in plastic and metal for straight and curved (e.g. arch ways) applications.

The drywall outside corner will be covered with 1-1/4″ galvanized metal corner bead to protect the corner. I purchased a 10 foot section  for about $2 because the closet is a little over 8 feet high. (BTW – that right section of closet wall is exposed for the building inspector to inspect the closet light wiring.)

Basement Closet Construction: Drywall Corner Bead

The metal drywall corner bead is cut to length with tin snips:

Drywall Corner Bead Cut with Tin Snips

The corner bead is fastened to the wall corner with drywall screws and a drywall screw dimpler bit. Set the screws about 8 inches apart and stagger the screws on opposite sides so two screws don’t collide.

Drywall Corner Bead Installation with Drywall Screws

The installed drywall corner bead on the basement closet:

Basement Closet: Galvanized Metal Drywall Corner Bead

The drywall corner bead profile is designed such that the corner slightly raised so the sides can be filled with joint compound feathered onto the walls. The first coat is applied with a 6 inch drywall knife, then feathered with a pass of the 12 inch wide drywall knife:

Finish the Drywall Corner Bead with Joint Compound

The drywall corner bead finished with joint compound:

Basement Closet: Finished Drywall Corner Bead

The 1/2 inch plywood closet cap and last section of drywall are installed in the next part of this series.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post Basement Closet Drywall Finishing appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project explains how to extend power from an existing wall outlet with Wiremold® surface mount raceway and wire the electrical boxes in this installment of How To Build a Basement Closet. This project is continued from wiring the light switch.

How to Extend Power from an Existing Wall Outlet

At this point in the basement closet project, I’ve completed the Wiremold wiring rough-in and connected the wires for the closet ceiling light and light switch as I work my from the ceiling light back to the existing wall outlet. In other words, I’m making the wiring connections starting at the new electrical circuit termination (the ceiling light) and working sequentially back to circuit origin (the wall outlet). Making the wiring connections in this order minimizes the risk of accidentally working on a live wire because the wall outlet power source is the final connection.

Electrical Safety: As always, the power must be shutoff at the circuit breaker before working on the electrical wiring. Verify the electricity is off with a voltage detector. Hire a licensed electrician if in doubt.

The electrical wiring connections to made next are the:

• Wiremold BW35 junction box.
  The outlet box is used here as a junction box here with a blank cover plate.
• Leviton T5015-W single receptacle wall outlet and Wiremold BW35 outlet box.

The Wiremold wiring diagram is illustrated here:

Wiremold Electrical Outlet Power Extension Wiring Diagram

Wiremold Junction Box Wiring

The Wiremold BW35 junction box is used to connect the NM-B 14/2 cable inside the 2×4 stud wall to NM-B 14/2 cable from the Wiremold® 700 Series metal channel. The BW35 box is removed to expose the back plate. Do the following:

• Cut an 6 inch length of NM-B 14/2 cable from the roll and remove the copper ground wire.
• Install a #10 green ground screw in the dimple of the back plate.
• Make a small loop in the end of the ground wire, loop it around the ground screw, then pinch the loop closed with needle nose pliers.
  See the red arrow in the next photo.
• Tighten the ground screw.

Wiremold BW35 Junction Box Wiring: #10 Ground Screw

NM-B 14/2 wiring preparation:

• The outer jacket of the NM-B 14/2 cables are carefully removed so as not to damage the insulation on the individual wires.
  Make a short, shallow lengthwise cut in the outer jacket at the end of the cable, then peel the outer jacket back like a banana.
• Leave 1 inch of of the outer insulation jacket extending past the Halex 3/8 in. 2-Piece Clamp Connector (red arrow in next photo).
  Also take care to have 1 inch of the outer jacket insulation for the other cable extending past the Wiremold 90° elbow into the BW35 junction box.
• Tighten the cable clamp screws to secure the NM-B 14/2 cable in the center of the back plate.
• Trim the wires if needed to have at least 6 inches of wire extending past the back plate.
• Strip approx. 5/8 inch of insulation from the ends of the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires with wire strippers.

Wiremold Junction Box Wiring: NM-B 14/2 Wires and Cable Clamp

Matching the wire colors, right-twist (clockwise) the ends of the ground, black (hot) and white (neutral) wires together using linesmans pliers and secure each set of wires with a wire nut.

NM-B 14/2 Wiring Connections in Wiremold Junction Box

Fold the wires and install the Wiremold BW35 junction box with the two included screws. The junction box will be closed with a standard blank wall plate cover to conceal and protect the wires.

Wiremold Junction Box: NM-B 14/2 Wire Connections

Then snap the elbow cover into place:

Wiremold Junction Box and 90 degree Elbow

Wiremold Wall Outlet Wiring

Electrical Safety Caution:

The final wiring connections to power the new circuit are about to made. Be absolutely certain to shutoff the power at the circuit breaker panel if you haven’t already done so. Verify the electricity is Off on all wires with a voltage detector to avoid shock, injury or death.

The final wiring steps are to:

• Cut a length 6 inch length of NM-B 14/2 cable from the roll for the new receptacle pigtail wiring.
• Twist and wire nut the NM-B 14/2 wires from inside the wall (to the circuit breaker), the Wiremold raceway and the outlet pigtail.
• Connect the pigtail wires to the new outlet.

The wiring diagram for the following steps is:

Wiremold Wall Outlet Power Extension Wiring Diagram

After shutting off power at the circuit breaker and verifying the electricity is indeed Off, I connected the main circuit wires as was done for the junction box (see above). Next, the new single receptacle outlet will be connected to the pigtail wires. Reminder, you can install a dual outlet receptacle if preferred.

Wiremold Outlet Box and Receptacle Wiring

The next (non-standard) installation steps are:

• Wire the new outlet per the manufacturer’s instructions included with the outlet.
• Insert a receptacle tester into the outlet.
• Turn On the electricity at the circuit breaker to verify my wiring connections (see the photo below).
  Two yellow lights indicates the outlet is correctly wired.
  Caution: Do not touch the receptacle because the side terminal screws are exposed and you can be shocked!
  This is a construction zone and the outlet will be exposed only for a short time. I also don’t have children or pets running about.

You should adhere to the standard outlet installation procedure:

• The electricity is Off at the circuit breaker
  
• Mount Wiremold metal box to the back plate
• Wire the receptacle per the manufacturer’s instructions
• Mount the outlet to the Wiremold box (the outlet is now protected in the box)
  
• Turn On the circuit breaker
  
• Insert the receptacle tester in the outlet to verify the wiring is correct.

I chose not to follow the standard procedure because the wires inside wall were so short and it would be far easier to fix any wiring problems with the box out of the way.

Wiremold Electrical Outlet Wiring

Being careful not to touch the side terminals of the toggle switch, I flipped the light switch On. Let there be light! The new circuit for the closet ceiling light works!

Wall Outlet Power Extension with Wiremold: Testing the Light Circuit

I shutoff the power at the circuit breaker panel, verified the electricity was Off by observing all lights on the receptacle tester are now off (the receptacle tester was still plugged into the outlet), then:

• Fed the wired receptacle through the Wiremold outlet box.
• Mounted the box to the back plate with the two screws included with the Wiremold outlet box.
• Mounted the outlet to the Wiremold outlet box.

Wiremold Outlet Box and Receptacle

The Wiremold outlet box, metal raceway and junction box to extend power from the existing wall outlet to the ceiling light:

Existing Wall Outlet Power Extension with Wiremold

Looking ahead for a moment, here’s the Wiremold wall outlet power extension after the basement closet construction is completed:

Finished Basement Closet with Wiremold Wall Outlet Power Extension

View of the basement closet construction and wiring for the ceiling light:

Closet Ceiling Light Wiring with Wiremold

While the circuit breaker Off, I wrapped the toggle switch for the ceiling light with 3M vinyl electricians tape (red arrow in the above photo) to temporarily insulate the side screws because I plan to install that section of drywall after the building inspector has signed-off on my electrical permit.

The drywall and corner bead are installed in the next part of this project.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Extend Power from an Existing Wall Outlet with Wiremold appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project shows how to wire a light switch after the switch box wiring rough-in in this phase of How To Build a Basement Closet. The closet ceiling light was wired in the prior installment.

How to Wire a Light Switch

The new basement closet wiring has been roughed-in for the wall outlet power extension to the closet ceiling light. I’m now making the wiring connections working my way from top to bottom:

• wire the ceiling light fixture
• wire the wall light switch
• connect the Wiremold surface mount junction box
• lastly, connect the light circuit to the wall outlet for power

Because the NM-B 14/2 line-side (bottom cable) is not yet connected to the wall outlet, the wires are dead (no electricity) and are safe to work on.

If you happen to be replacing an existing light switch, shutoff the electricity at the circuit breaker panel and verify the power is Off with a voltage detector before working with the wiring. Hire a licensed electrician if you have any doubts.

Rough-in Wiring Preparation

In the next photo, the NM-B 14/2 cable entering the bottom of steel switch box is the “line-side” that will carry power from the wall outlet. The NM-B 14/2 cable leaving the top of the switch box is the “load side” that goes to the ceiling light.

The Leviton 5501-LHI heavy duty grounding illuminated-off toggle switch will operate the closet ceiling light. I like illuminated light switches in certain locations because it saves hunting around in the dark. The proper name for this common style of light switch is a “toggle switch”. One minor issue with the Leviton commercial grade 5501-LHI switch is it clicks a bit loudly when flipping the switch, whereas most residential light switches operate quietly.

Prepare the roughed-in NM-B 14/2 cables by doing the following:

• The outer jacket of the NM-B 14/2 cables are carefully removed so as not to damage the insulation on the individual wires.
  Make a short, shallow lengthwise cut in the outer jacket at the end of the cable, then peel the outer jacket back like a banana.
• Leave 1 inch of of the outer insulation jacket poking inside switch box as shown.
• Tighten the cable clamp screws in the switch box to secure the NM-B 14/2 cables.
• Trim the wires if needed to have at least 6 inches of wire extending beyond the switch box.
• Strip approx. 5/8 inch of insulation from the ends of the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires with wire strippers.

Light Switch Wiring: Leviton Grounding Light Switch

Light Switch Ground & Neutral Wiring Connections

Ground wire (bare copper) connections:

• Cut a 6 inch length of 14 gauge copper wire to make a pigtail connection to the light switch.
• Make a small loop in the end of the pigtail ground wire and place the loop around the green ground screw on the light switch.
• Pinch the loop closed with needle nose pliers.
• Tighten the ground screw.
• Right-twist (clockwise) the ends of the three ground wires together with the linesman pliers and secure with a wire nut.

White (neutral) wiring connections:

• Strip about 5/8 inch of insulation from the white neutral wires.
• Twist the white wires together and secure with a wire nut.

Light Switch Wiring: Ground Wire Connections

Light Switch Hot (Black) Wiring

The Leviton toggle switch is side wired. Take care to orient the light switch correctly… the toggle lever will display the word “On” when the switch is upright and in the On position. The line-side (from the circuit breaker) black wire from the bottom of the switch box is connected to the bottom side screw as shown in the next photo.

• Make a small loop in both black (hot) wires.
• Connect the line-side black wire to the lower switch side screw.
• Pinch the loop closed around the correct side screw on the switch.
• Firmly tighten the screw.

Light Switch Wiring Connections: Neutral and Ground Wires

• Loop the load-side (to the closet light) black wire around the upper side screw, pinch the loop closed with needle nose pliers, then tighten the screw. (I’ve yet to tighten the upper side screw in the next photo to illustrate the wire loop.)

Leviton Grounding Toggle Swtich Wiring: Black (Hot) Wires

The finished light switch wiring connections:

Toggle Switch NM-B 14/2 Wiring Connections

Drywall Installation

If you’re wondering why I installed the light switch before the drywall, the reasons are:

• I’m leaving this part of the wall and electrical wiring open while waiting for the building inspector to arrive and sign-off on my work.
• The light switch will be slipped through the drywall cutout for the switch box when I hang the drywall, so this is not a concern.
• I want to complete the wiring connections so the closet light is operational to better see when finishing the drywall inside the closet.

But what about the exposed side screws on the light switch? Wouldn’t that be a shock/electrocution hazard if the electricity is turned on before mounting the light switch in the steel switch box? It sure would be! To avoid being accidentally shocked, I temporarily wrapped the toggle switch with several layers of 3M vinyl electrical tape rated for 600 volts.

Light Switch Temporarily Insulated with Electrical Tape

Since I don’t have young children or other susceptible persons in the house, doing so isn’t a major concern. I informed the family of the hazard with orders to stay out of the construction site and to keep the basement bedroom door closed.

I’m not recommending that you do this; instead you should fold the wires into the switch box and mount the toggle switch to the box. The switch plate can be temporarily installed if you’re worried about children sticking their fingers in the switch box.

The Wiremold® junction box and outlet box wiring connections are completed to power up the closet light in the next part of this series.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Wire a Light Switch appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project explains how to wire a closet light in this phase of How To Build a Basement Closet. See the previous project which illustrates the drywall installation and ceiling electrical box wiring rough-in.

Closet Ceiling Light

I purchased a Hampton Bay Textured White 2-Light Flushmount Model # FL226-S, ceiling light from Home Depot for about $20. The light is rated for two (2) 60 watt medium base bulbs. I liked the clean low profile look of the unit and wanted two bulbs for good illumination. The 60 watt power limit per bulb is not a problem with compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) bulbs that draw just 23 watts each with an equivalent light output of 100 watts.

Closet Light: Hampton Bay Textured White 2-Light Flushmount

Please refer to the Hampton Bay 2-Light Model # FL226-S installation guide for the details.

How to Wire a Closet Light

Caution: The basement closet wiring is roughed-in, but is not yet connected to the main circuit, therefore the closet light NM-B 14/2 wires are not energized (no electricity).

If you are replacing an existing ceiling light fixture, be absolutely certain to shutoff the power at the circuit breaker and confirm the electricity is Off in the ceiling light circuit with a voltage tester. Failure to do so can result in electric shock, injury and death. If you are not familiar with electrical wiring, please hire a licensed electrician.

The ceiling electrical box roughed-in wiring is prepared as follows:

• The outer jacket of the NM-B 14/2 cable is carefully removed so as not to damage the insulation on the individual wires.
  Make a short, shallow lengthwise cut in the outer jacket at the end of the cable, then peel it back like a banana.
• Leave 1 inch of of the outer insulation jacket poking inside the ceiling octagon electrical box as shown.
• Tighten the cable clamp screw in the box to secure the NM-B 14/2 cable.
• Trim the wires if needed to have at least 6 inches of wire extending beyond the ceiling box.
• Strip 5/8 inch of insulation from the ends of the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires using wire strippers.

Closet Light Wiring: Ceiling Electrical Box

• Attach the light fixture mounting strap using the two screws that came with the ceiling electrical box.
• Cut a new 8 inch length of NM-B 14/2 cable from the roll, then pull the ground wire conductor from the cable jacket.
• Install the green ground screw on the mounting strap.
  The ground screw is included with the light kit.
• Make a small loop in the ground wire using needle nose pliers so it fits around the ground screw.
• Place the ground wire loop around the ground screw such that the end of the loop is “with the right hand twist” of the screw, then pinch the loop closed around the ground screw with the needle nose pliers.
  The right-hand (clockwise) orientation of the ground wire loop is needed so the loop tends get tighter as the screw is turned.
  In contrast, a “lefty” loop orientation will want to open up as the ground screw is tightened.
• Securely tighten the ground screw on the ground wire.
• Trim the new ground wire to the same length of the other wires.
• Thread the two light canopy mounting screws about 3/8 inches into the mounting strap.

The steel electrical box must be grounded as required by the electrical building code via the mounting strap ground screw and ground wire.

Closet Ceiling Light Wiring: Mounting Strap and Ground Wire Screw

The closet ceiling light wiring connections are straightforward:

Connect the Ground Wires:

A best practice is to connect the ground wires of a circuit first so there’s ground path that’s better than your body… just in case. Connect the light fixture ground wires by:

• Using a pair linesman pliers, right twist (clockwise) the two 14 gauge solid bare copper wire ends together from the NM-B 14/2 cable.
  Linesman pliers have flat wide jaw ends that are perfect for gripping and twisting electrical wires.
• Hold the end of the braided copper ground wire from the light fixture even with the 14 gauge wires.
• Twist on an orange wire nut (provided with the light fixture) to fasten the three ground wires together.

Connect the Black (Hot) and White (Neutral) Wires:

• Right-hand twist together the ends of the two light socket black (hot) wires.
  These are stranded flexible wires, twist together using your fingers.
• Hold the light socket black wires even with the end of NM-B 14/2 black wire.
• Twist an orange wire nut on all three black wires.
• Do the same to connect the white (neutral) wires.

In the next photo, I’ve nutted the three black (hot) wires and twisted together the two light socket white (neutral) wires prior to nutting the wires with the NM-B 14/2 white (neutral) wire.

Closet Ceiling Wiring Connections: White Neutral Wires

The completed ceiling light wiring connections for the hot, neutral and ground wires. Check that all wires are held securely by the wire nuts.

Closet Light Wiring Connections: Black, White and Ground Wires

• Carefully fold and tuck the wires into the ceiling octagon electrical box.
• Align the canopy keyholes with the heads of the canopy mounting screws, then press the canopy over the mounting screws until it’s flush with the ceiling drywall.
• Twist the canopy clockwise to lock it place around the mounting screws, then tighten the canopy mounting screws.
• The light fixture insulation tends to hide the keyholes so this took some trial and error.

Closet Ceiling Light Wiring & Installation

You may be thinking: “Isn’t wiring the light before the drywall is installed, finished and painted a bit premature?”

My reply is “No, because I need a light in the closet to see better while hanging and finishing the drywall. When it’s time to paint the ceiling, I’ll shutoff the circuit breaker, drop the light canopy, paint and set it back in place.”

Jumping ahead several steps in the closet light circuit wiring process, the next photo is what the closet light looks like during the basement closet construction. Power from the existing electrical outlet inside the closet is extended with Wiremold metal raceways and junction boxes to the wiring inside the 2×4 walls to reach the light switch and ceiling light.

Building a Basement Closet: Ceiling Light Installation

Next up, wiring the closet light switch.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Wire a Closet Light appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project explains how to cut and install the ceiling drywall for the ceiling electrical box in this installment of How To Build a Basement Closet. See the previous installment for how to hang the closet drywall.

How to Build a Basement Closet: Ceiling Drywall

The closet ceiling drywall is simple rectangular section cut from a single sheet of 4 ft x 8 ft x 1/2 in sheetrock gypsum drywall using the score & snap method explained in the previous project. The ceiling panel can be cut up to 1/4 inch smaller than the ceiling dimensions because the gap at the walls will be covered by the drywall on the closet walls, however I used 1/8 inch tolerances which worked fine with carefully built straight & true 2×4 framed walls.

Locating the Ceiling Electrical Box

The trick to installing the ceiling drywall panel is to mark and cut the hole for the ceiling light octagon electrical box. Instead of making a lot of complicated measurements, the easiest way is to rub a felt tip marker (a crayon or lipstick will also work) on the rim of the electrical box, hold the drywall in place against the ceiling joists, then bump the drywall with your palm to transfer the marker ink to the drywall.

Painting the rim of the octagon ceiling box with a red marker to transfer the box outline to the drywall:

Ceiling Drywall Installation: Marking the Ceiling Electrical Box

Close-up of the back of the drywall ceiling panel after making an impression of the ceiling electric box. I used a spare octagon box to trace the full outline left by the red marker with a black ink pen.

Ceiling Drywall Installation: Locating the Electrical Box

The hole for the octagon ceiling box is cut as follows:

• Drill two pilot holes inside the ceiling box outline.
  The pilot holes are for starting the jab saw to avoid tearing the finish side of the drywall.
• The box outline is cut only on the “pull stroke” towards the saw handle so as not to leave a jagged edge on the finish side of the drywall.

Drywall Ceiling Installation: Sawing the Hole for the Ceiling Light Electrical Box

The completed hole in the ceiling drywall panel for the octagon electrical box:

Ceiling Drywall Installation: Hole Cut for the Ceiling Light Electrical Box

Working with a helper, the drywall ceiling panel is held in place against the 2×4 ceiling joists and fastened with course thread drywall screws. A drywall dimpler bit in the cordless drill/driver sets the screws the proper depth every time.

Closet Drywall Ceiling Installation with Drywall Screws

The drywall screws are spaced 8 inches apart and driven into the 2×4 ceiling joists. The center lines of the joists are marked in pencil for accuracy. The drywall cutout for the octagon electrical box fits perfectly!

Ceiling Drywall and Octagon Electrical Box

View of the installed ceiling drywall panel in the basement closet:

Closet Drywall Ceiling Panel Installation

The drywall ceiling panel, ceiling joists and wiring rough-in for the ceiling light as viewed from above the closet. Notice the 2×4 ceiling joist on the far left. The purpose of that joist to provide a surface (“nailer”) to fasten the drywall where it abuts the 2×4 stud wall.

Basement Closet Construction: Drywall Ceiling Panel and Electrical Box

The rear and far right edges of the drywall panel are fastened to the ledger boards:

Closet Drywall Ceiling Installation: Ledger Boards and Wiring Rough-In

The closet ceiling light fixture is installed in the next part of this series.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Build a Basement Closet: Ceiling Drywall appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.

This project explains how to cut and install the drywall in this installment of How To Build a Basement Closet.

See the Wiremold electrical rough-in for the closet light in previous installment of this series.

How to Build a Basement Closet: Drywall Installation

Having completed the electrical wiring rough-in, the 1/2 inch thick drywall sheets are measured, cut and installed on the 2×4 closet frame.

I built the closet walls with full length 8 foot (96 inch) 2×4 lumber, therefore the distance from the floor to the 2×4 top plate is 1-1/2 in. (sole plate) + 96 inches 2×4 wall stud + 1-1/2 in. top plate for a total wall height of 99 inches. 99 inches is 3 inches longer than an 8 foot long sheet of drywall, therefore I will use 10 foot long sheets of drywall for the exterior closet walls. I could have cut the 96 inch 2×4 wall studs back to 93.5 inches (the extra 1/2 inch is for drywall floor clearance) and used 8 foot long drywall sheets. It was a personal choice between shortening the studs or using 3 pieces of 10 foot drywall.

Basement Closet Drywall Installation: 10 foot drywall sheet

Measure and Cut Drywall for the Closet Wall

If you’ve not hanged drywall before, read the SHEETROCK® Installation and Finish Guide by USG Corp.

I needed a 4 foot carpenter’s level, tape measure, 54 inch drywall T-square, pencil and pad to make careful measurements to fit the sheetrock panels. A minor complication is accommodating that setback (or ledge) in the exterior wall for the concrete foundation wall.

Wall Profile Sketch

I made sketch on my notepad of the closet wall profile and wrote down the measurements. The concrete foundation wall isn’t exactly plumb (vertical), so I used the 4 foot carpenter’s level to figure out the slant angle referenced to a plumb line. I tried to keep my measurements and cuts accurate to within 1/8 inch at the existing room wall abutments.

The sketch measurements are marked on the finish face of the 10 foot drywall panel. A long drywall T-square is indispensable here. It requires some planning to make the sequence of drywall cuts such that there isn’t a heavy section of drywall that may break off prematurely when snapping the cuts. The basic rule is to cut off the largest sections first. In this photo, I’m cutting the drywall to fit the height of the closet minus 1/2 inch for clearance above the concrete floor. The 1/2 inch gap at the floor will be covered by the baseboard.

Building a Basement Closet: Drywall T-Square

The drywall sheets are cut using the “score and snap” method. I set the length of the utility knife blade such that it couldn’t accidentally scratch the floor and made a deep score along the cut line using the drywall T-square as a guide:

Drywall Installation: Scoring the Cut Line with a Utility Knife

A helper and I carefully stood the 10 foot drywall sheet on edge. The drywall is then snapped (or broken) away from the knife cut made on the finished side. The drywall paper on the back is then cut along the break angle with the utility knife to separate the two sections.

Drywall Installation: Scoring the Cut Line with a Utility Knife

Smooth the cut edge of the drywall panel by running the utility knife flat along the end to knock down any high spots.

Drywall Score and Snap Cutting Method

A big advantage of the Skimstone concrete floor finish is the drywall dust vacuums up cleanly with the shopvac.

The measurements for the closet wall width and foundation wall setback are marked for scoring and cutting. A drywall saw was needed to make horizontal cut for the foundation wall setback before the longer vertical cut could be scored and snapped.

Drywall Installation: Marking Cut Lines

Hanging the Closet Drywall

The first sheet of 1/2 inch drywall stood in place and checked for fit. If adjustments to the fit are needed, just trim as needed with the utility knife.

The drywall sheet is initially fastened with course thread drywall screws to the 2×4 top plate. Notice the blue pieces of painter’s tape on the floor; the wall stud centers are marked on the floor tape before hanging the drywall. The stud centers are also marked on the top plate prior to installation. The purpose of marking the stud centers is to provide references for snapping a chalk line so I’ll know where to set the drywall screws. Shims (indicated by the green lines) were used to hold the drywall sheet off the floor while fastening the screws.

Basement Closet: Hanging the Drywall

The drywall screws are spaced 16 inches apart along the chalk lines:

Drywall Installation: Drywall Screw and Dimpler Bit

The DEWALT drywall dimpler bit automatically sets the correct screw depth with a small dimple. The dimple allows for a smooth finish with joint compound.

DEWALT Drywall Dimpler Bit

The drywall screws are spaced 16 inches apart:

Building a Basement Closet: Drywall Installation

View of the drywall from inside the closet. I can use 8 foot sheets of drywall in the closet because the interior walls are 3-1/2 inches shorter than the exterior walls due to the 2×4 ceiling joists.

Building a Basement Closet: Drywall Installation

View of the lower closet wall:

Building a Basement Closet: Drywall and Framing

The interior ceiling drywall is installed in the next part of this series.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2013 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.

The post How to Build a Basement Closet: Drywall Installation appeared first on HandymanHowto.com.