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	<title>Comments for HandymanHowto.com</title>
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	<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com</link>
	<description>Home improvement, maintenance and repair projects.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 18:34:45 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on How to Repair Drywall Ceiling Water Damage – Part 3 by Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2010/02/27/how-to-repair-drywall-ceiling-water-damage-part-3/#comment-3718</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 18:34:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=4433#comment-3718</guid>
		<description>The sheetrock paper face is most likely delaminated on the backside. Once that happens the gypsum crumbles and the drywall loses it&#039;s strength. I would pull it all off and hang new drywall - it&#039;s a pain but not very expensive. Call around for a couple of bids, the construction industry is still hurting and the bids should be very competitive.

You other option is to cut out the worst sections following the lines of the ceiling joists and install new sections of drywall. If it&#039;s as bad as your describe, you may decide to replace the entire ceiling.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The sheetrock paper face is most likely delaminated on the backside. Once that happens the gypsum crumbles and the drywall loses it&#8217;s strength. I would pull it all off and hang new drywall &#8211; it&#8217;s a pain but not very expensive. Call around for a couple of bids, the construction industry is still hurting and the bids should be very competitive.</p>
<p>You other option is to cut out the worst sections following the lines of the ceiling joists and install new sections of drywall. If it&#8217;s as bad as your describe, you may decide to replace the entire ceiling.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Repair Drywall Ceiling Water Damage – Part 3 by Mickey English</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2010/02/27/how-to-repair-drywall-ceiling-water-damage-part-3/#comment-3717</link>
		<dc:creator>Mickey English</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 17:47:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=4433#comment-3717</guid>
		<description>I have a double garage that is totally sheet rocked. A couple of years ago I replaced my roof and the night before I finished the section over my garage it came a terrible rain storm in which I had leaks all over the garage ceiling. Now all the joint compound &amp; tape in the ceiling are falling out, and there are several pieces that need to be resecured to the ceiling. Its a mess!!! Got any advice on how to best repair the ceiling and save the sheet rock?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a double garage that is totally sheet rocked. A couple of years ago I replaced my roof and the night before I finished the section over my garage it came a terrible rain storm in which I had leaks all over the garage ceiling. Now all the joint compound &amp; tape in the ceiling are falling out, and there are several pieces that need to be resecured to the ceiling. Its a mess!!! Got any advice on how to best repair the ceiling and save the sheet rock?</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Watch Netflix Instantly on your HDTV &#8211; Part 1 by Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/04/19/how-to-watch-netflix-instantly-on-your-hdtv-part-1/#comment-3716</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:12:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=1908#comment-3716</guid>
		<description>You can connect your computer directly into the broadband modem - no WiFi router required. Most people have more than one device that needs Internet access (iPhone, iPad, Android, Kindle, laptops, etc.) and therefore have a WiFi router to provide wired or wireless Internet access to all the devices.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can connect your computer directly into the broadband modem &#8211; no WiFi router required. Most people have more than one device that needs Internet access (iPhone, iPad, Android, Kindle, laptops, etc.) and therefore have a WiFi router to provide wired or wireless Internet access to all the devices.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Watch Netflix Instantly on your HDTV &#8211; Part 1 by Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/04/19/how-to-watch-netflix-instantly-on-your-hdtv-part-1/#comment-3715</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:08:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=1908#comment-3715</guid>
		<description>Any HDMI cable will be fine - they&#039;re all high speed digital. Try the &quot;Amazon Basics&quot; HDMI cable because it&#039;s a quality reasonably priced cable. The $6 cable works just as well as a the name-brand $40 cable.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Any HDMI cable will be fine &#8211; they&#8217;re all high speed digital. Try the &#8220;Amazon Basics&#8221; HDMI cable because it&#8217;s a quality reasonably priced cable. The $6 cable works just as well as a the name-brand $40 cable.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Watch Netflix Instantly on your HDTV &#8211; Part 1 by m lemmon</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/04/19/how-to-watch-netflix-instantly-on-your-hdtv-part-1/#comment-3714</link>
		<dc:creator>m lemmon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Feb 2012 14:32:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=1908#comment-3714</guid>
		<description>Do I need a standard, highspeed or cable with ethernet? These are the ones I see for sale. Thanks. I have HP pavilion with Vista.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do I need a standard, highspeed or cable with ethernet? These are the ones I see for sale. Thanks. I have HP pavilion with Vista.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Watch Netflix Instantly on your HDTV &#8211; Part 1 by m lemmon</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/04/19/how-to-watch-netflix-instantly-on-your-hdtv-part-1/#comment-3713</link>
		<dc:creator>m lemmon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Feb 2012 14:09:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=1908#comment-3713</guid>
		<description>Why must I have a router to watch netflix on hdtv? Is that always the case. Bob, you are a saint.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Why must I have a router to watch netflix on hdtv? Is that always the case. Bob, you are a saint.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Replace a Worn-Out Electrical Outlet &#8211; Part 3 by Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2011/01/17/how-to-replace-a-worn-out-electrical-outlet-part-3/#comment-3707</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2012 02:34:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=7148#comment-3707</guid>
		<description>You&#039;ll have to troubleshoot the wiring to figure out what&#039;s wrong. You&#039;ll need a non-contact voltage tester, some masking tape and a pen.

1) Turn off the power at circuit breaker serving the receptacle circuit.
2) Verify the receptacle is dead with the voltage tester.
3) Remove and unwire the receptacle. Set it on the counter out of the way.
4) Disconnect and separate the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires.
5) Leave the ground wires connected for safety&#039;s sake.
6) You should now have two black and two white wires exposed and separated from the outlet box.
7) Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.
8 ) Very carefully verify which of the two black (hot) wires is energized with electricity with the voltage detector.
Best to keep one hand in your pocket while doing this.
Only one black wire should be energized. Remember which black wire is hot.
9) Check if either of the white (neutral) wires is energized with the voltage detector - neither should be live.
10) Turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker.
11) Label the one black wire that was energized with a small piece of masking tape marked &quot;line side&quot;.
12) Wire nut together the two black wires coming from the outlet box.
13) Wire nut together the two white wires coming from the outlet box.
14) Turn on the circuit breaker.
15) Check if the downstream outlets have power.
16) No power in the downstream outlets? You have a broken wire in one of leads coming from the outlet box. Is there a sharp kink that would indicate a break?
17) Got power in the downstream outlets? You probably had a bad wire nut connection in your pigtail. Perhaps something came loose when you folded the wires in the wall box?
18) Turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
19) Wire the receptacle in parallel with the pigtail in the usual way.
20) Leave the receptacle hanging out of the wall box.
21) Turn on the power.
22) Check the wires for voltage with the voltage detector. Are the downstream outlets energized? Good.
23) Turn off the power.
24) Carefully fold the wires into the outlet box and remount the receptacle.
25) Turn on the power and recheck the downstream receptacles for power.

Let me know what you find. If you&#039;re still having trouble, pictures would be helpful.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You&#8217;ll have to troubleshoot the wiring to figure out what&#8217;s wrong. You&#8217;ll need a non-contact voltage tester, some masking tape and a pen.</p>
<p>1) Turn off the power at circuit breaker serving the receptacle circuit.<br />
2) Verify the receptacle is dead with the voltage tester.<br />
3) Remove and unwire the receptacle. Set it on the counter out of the way.<br />
4) Disconnect and separate the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires.<br />
5) Leave the ground wires connected for safety&#8217;s sake.<br />
6) You should now have two black and two white wires exposed and separated from the outlet box.<br />
7) Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.<br />
8 ) Very carefully verify which of the two black (hot) wires is energized with electricity with the voltage detector.<br />
Best to keep one hand in your pocket while doing this.<br />
Only one black wire should be energized. Remember which black wire is hot.<br />
9) Check if either of the white (neutral) wires is energized with the voltage detector &#8211; neither should be live.<br />
10) Turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker.<br />
11) Label the one black wire that was energized with a small piece of masking tape marked &#8220;line side&#8221;.<br />
12) Wire nut together the two black wires coming from the outlet box.<br />
13) Wire nut together the two white wires coming from the outlet box.<br />
14) Turn on the circuit breaker.<br />
15) Check if the downstream outlets have power.<br />
16) No power in the downstream outlets? You have a broken wire in one of leads coming from the outlet box. Is there a sharp kink that would indicate a break?<br />
17) Got power in the downstream outlets? You probably had a bad wire nut connection in your pigtail. Perhaps something came loose when you folded the wires in the wall box?<br />
18) Turn off the power at the circuit breaker.<br />
19) Wire the receptacle in parallel with the pigtail in the usual way.<br />
20) Leave the receptacle hanging out of the wall box.<br />
21) Turn on the power.<br />
22) Check the wires for voltage with the voltage detector. Are the downstream outlets energized? Good.<br />
23) Turn off the power.<br />
24) Carefully fold the wires into the outlet box and remount the receptacle.<br />
25) Turn on the power and recheck the downstream receptacles for power.</p>
<p>Let me know what you find. If you&#8217;re still having trouble, pictures would be helpful.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Replace a Worn-Out Electrical Outlet &#8211; Part 3 by Bob Jackson</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2011/01/17/how-to-replace-a-worn-out-electrical-outlet-part-3/#comment-3706</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Jackson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2012 01:59:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=7148#comment-3706</guid>
		<description>You can tie in a new run of NM-B cable using the existing pigtails with 3 appropriately sized wire nuts in the outlet box, however the problem is the volume of a single gang outlet box with typical dimensions of 3&quot; x 2&quot; x 2.75&quot; (= 16.5 cubic inches total volume) will be the box is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021103058.pdf&quot; title=&quot;Installing Electrical Boxes and Receptacles Keep boxes straight and splices tight for safe, trouble-free circuits&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;too small for to hold everything&lt;/a&gt; in violation of the National Electrical Code. The purpose of the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_boxes.asp?FAM=R...&quot; title=&quot;Maximum Number of Conductors or Minimum Size Box Required – National Electrical Code Article 370-16&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;box fill calculations&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is to prevent overcrowded and broken wires that could be a fire hazard.

The correct approach is to remove the single gang box and install a double gang box. If retrofitting, cut a larger hole in the drywall to fit an &quot;old work&quot; double gang box. Use a cover plate that&#039;s half blank (solid face) with an outlet profile on the side.

Keep in mind that while there&#039;s not a specific limit to the number of outlets on a branch circuit, the NEC says the total load should be no more than 80% of the circuit breaker rating. So you may want to total up the current loads in AMPs for the TV, lamps, computers, portable electric heater, etc. to see what will be expected for the total load. If greater than 80% of the circuit breaker rating, consider pulling a new branch circuit for the receptacles to a dedicated circuit breaker.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can tie in a new run of NM-B cable using the existing pigtails with 3 appropriately sized wire nuts in the outlet box, however the problem is the volume of a single gang outlet box with typical dimensions of 3&#8243; x 2&#8243; x 2.75&#8243; (= 16.5 cubic inches total volume) will be the box is <a href="http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021103058.pdf" title="Installing Electrical Boxes and Receptacles Keep boxes straight and splices tight for safe, trouble-free circuits" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">too small for to hold everything</a> in violation of the National Electrical Code. The purpose of the &#8220;<a href="http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_boxes.asp?FAM=R..." title="Maximum Number of Conductors or Minimum Size Box Required – National Electrical Code Article 370-16" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">box fill calculations</a>&#8221; is to prevent overcrowded and broken wires that could be a fire hazard.</p>
<p>The correct approach is to remove the single gang box and install a double gang box. If retrofitting, cut a larger hole in the drywall to fit an &#8220;old work&#8221; double gang box. Use a cover plate that&#8217;s half blank (solid face) with an outlet profile on the side.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that while there&#8217;s not a specific limit to the number of outlets on a branch circuit, the NEC says the total load should be no more than 80% of the circuit breaker rating. So you may want to total up the current loads in AMPs for the TV, lamps, computers, portable electric heater, etc. to see what will be expected for the total load. If greater than 80% of the circuit breaker rating, consider pulling a new branch circuit for the receptacles to a dedicated circuit breaker.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Replace a Worn-Out Electrical Outlet &#8211; Part 3 by Matt</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2011/01/17/how-to-replace-a-worn-out-electrical-outlet-part-3/#comment-3705</link>
		<dc:creator>Matt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 22:47:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=7148#comment-3705</guid>
		<description>Bob, great article. The pictures helped out. One question though. I replaced an outlet that was a middle of the run outlet wired in series. When I installed the new outlet in parallel, that outlet worked fine but those down stream did not. Any idea why?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bob, great article. The pictures helped out. One question though. I replaced an outlet that was a middle of the run outlet wired in series. When I installed the new outlet in parallel, that outlet worked fine but those down stream did not. Any idea why?</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Replace a Worn-Out Electrical Outlet &#8211; Part 3 by Bryan Barton</title>
		<link>http://www.handymanhowto.com/2011/01/17/how-to-replace-a-worn-out-electrical-outlet-part-3/#comment-3704</link>
		<dc:creator>Bryan Barton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:17:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.handymanhowto.com/?p=7148#comment-3704</guid>
		<description>Very helpful information on the differences between a series and parallel wiring of electrical outlets. One question when wiring outlets in parallel: Can you add an extra set of pigtails at the outlet where the power comes in from the circuit panel so that you can add additional electrical outlets in two different directions? This question assumes the power from the circuit panel comes in in what would be the middle of you series of outlets. Thank you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very helpful information on the differences between a series and parallel wiring of electrical outlets. One question when wiring outlets in parallel: Can you add an extra set of pigtails at the outlet where the power comes in from the circuit panel so that you can add additional electrical outlets in two different directions? This question assumes the power from the circuit panel comes in in what would be the middle of you series of outlets. Thank you.</p>
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