The RemoteLinc makes a pleasant beep and the LED illuminates when a button is pressed.

RemoteLinc #2440 - Insteon Wireless Remote Control

The RemoteLinc is perfect for controlling Insteon scenes while seated comfortably on the couch in front of the TV.

The RemoteLinc package includes the remote control, a one sheet Quick Start Guide and four AAA batteries.

RemoteLinc 2440 Remote Control Kit

The RemoteLinc has four rubber feet on the bottom, a nice touch so it doesn’t slide around on the table when you press a key. The Insteon device address is inside the battery compartment.

RemoteLinc 2440 - Rear View

Linking a RemoteLinc: ISY-99i Administrative Console

You don’t need an ISY-99i Home Automation Controller to link and control other Insteon devices with the RemoteLinc. Just follow the instructions in the Quick Start Guide and you’ll be ready in minutes.

I happen to have an ISY-99i controller by Universal Devices, Inc. and the setup is easily done via the Administrative Console. The Universal Devices Wiki page is very helpful, too.

Follow these steps to link a RemoteLinc and control scenes:

Step 1: Click Link Management → Link a RemoteLinc on the Admin Console menu.

Step 2: Put the RemoteLinc in Communications Mode by pressing and holding the Dim and Bright buttons for 10 seconds or until the RemoteLinc LED starts flashing.

Step 3: Enter the RemoteLinc address in the “New Insteon Device” dialog box. Click OK.

The ISY-99i will add the RemoteLinc to the My Lighting inventory, creating an instance for each of the six keypad buttons named [address].1, [address].2, …, [address].6 as illustrated here:

ISY-99i Admin Console - Link a RemoteLinc

Step 4: Rename each of six RemoteLinc Buttons

I prefer to name Insteon devices something more meaningful than the device address. Right-click on each of the six button instances and rename it to your liking. I simply named my buttons “RemoteLinc Btn N” where N is 1 to 6.

Rename the RemoteLinc Buttons

Step 5: Add a RemoteLinc Button to a Scene

Right click on a RemoteLinc button under My Lighting and then click Add to Scene…

Choose a scene from the popup dialog.

The Confirm Add dialog box is displayed with a progress bar.

Add a RemoteLinc Button to a Scene as a Controller

Step 6: Test the Button

The RemoteLinc button is shown as a controller in the scene. Click the RemoteLinc button to confirm the target device operates correctly.

Scene with RemoteLinc Button

Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the other buttons.

Create Custom Button Labels

It’s simple to create custom button labels using the Microsoft Word template at SmartHome.com. Just edit the template, print the page and cut out the new label with scissors. Gently pry off the dust cover, insert the new labels and snap the dust cover back in place.

RemoteLinc Custom Button Labels

The RemoteLinc is great because of it’s ease of use and portability.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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The benefits of an In-LineLinc relay in a floodlight are:

• Ability to sense when motion is detected and turn on other lights.
• Remotely turn ON/OFF the floodlight under program control or via the web.
• Operate the floodlight on a daily schedule and/or dim the light until motion is sensed.
• The floodlight still operates normally when the motion sensor is activated.

Motion Activated Floodlight wired with Insteon In-LineLinc

The Insteon In-LineLinc #2475S2 is an ON/OFF relay module with a 120VAC sense input that is ideal for integrating with a Passive Infra-Red (PIR) motion sensor as commonly found on security floodlights. The User Guide is well written with detailed wiring diagrams.

Insteon In-LineLinc #2475S2 Module with Sense

Heath Zenith Floodlight Compatibility

The In-LineLinc is compatible with the PIR motion sensor on “standard” Heath Zenith floodlights (e.g. models SL-5412, SL-5408) as widely sold through home improvement stores. However, in my experience the In-LineLinc does not work with those Heath Zenith models having the Dual-Brite patented dimming feature. So be sure to get a floodlight without Dual-Brite.

Electrical Safety

The following involves working with 120 volt AC electricity that can kill, main or shock the daylights out of you! If you don’t know what you’re doing and how to comply with the electrical building code regulations, then stop and hire a professional licensed electrician.

Preparing the Floodlight

This is a brand new out of the box Heath Zenith #SL-5412-WH floodlight showing the wiring connections. The first thing to do is unbundled the wires by removing the two wire nuts as indicated by the red arrows in the following photo.

Note: This will probably void your product warranty! But it’s a ~$27.00 unit and are you really going to keep the receipt, box it up and mail it back to the manufacturer after 2, 3 or 5 years for warranty replacement if it breaks? Have you noticed those computerized cash register receipts tend to fade to the point it’s unreadable after a year or two? When I buy a really important item, I make a copy of the receipt to have a document that lasts.

Brand New Heath Zenith #SL-5412 Floodlight

The wire nut is crimped flat on two sides. Use pliers to uncrimp it and make the metal part round (or squarish) to release the wires.

Uncrimping the Wire Nuts

After uncrimping the wire nut, pull gently to remove. This is what you have after the two wire nuts are released – see the red squares.

Wire Nuts Removed

Untwist the red and white wires to separate the motion sensor wires from the lights. Discard the short white pigtail wire.

Untwist and Free the Wires

What you now have are:

• Motion sensor wires – all operate at 120VAC:
  - Black (line)
  - White (neutral)
  - Red (sense), output is zero volts when no motion is present, 120 volts when motion is sensed.
• Light socket wires
  - Red (hot) x 2
  - White (neutral) x 2

Weatherproof Electrical Box

I chose the Red Dot (by Thomas & Betts) weatherproof aluminum electrical box to mount the floodlight to an exterior wall. These are available at Home Depot. It was necessary to combine a base box with an extension unit to make room for the In-LineLinc. The Red Dot D-Pak® Dry-tite® part numbers are:

• Base Unit: DS-47-WH
• Box Extension: DSE-47-WH

Here are the two items:

Aluminum Box Extension and Outlet Box

The extension box comes with mounting screws, weather gasket and plugs for unused outlets.

Assembled Extension and Electrical Box

The brass mounting bar for the floodlight fits perfectly and held by two screws in the normal way.

Floodlight Mounting Bar

Trial fitting the foam weather gasket to seal between the electrical box and floodlight.

Weather Gasket

Installing the Floodlight and Wiring the In-LineLinc Relay

First, shut off the power to the floodlight circuit at the main electrical box. Do not rely on the ON/OFF light switch.

In the next photo, I’ve removed the old floodlight. The old floodlight was installed by perhaps the same numbnut electrician that wired my other light switch (search for ‘numbnut’ in that article). My guess the guy who installed the old floodlight cut the wire too short and drilled a new hole with only 2 inches of wire poking out. The floodlight was mounted directly to the wall without an outlet box. Another example of sloppy work by the lowest bidder!

Old Floodlight Mounting Bracket

The way to correct this error is caulk the unused holes and wire 8 inch long pigtails as shown:

Caulking the Holes and Wiring in Pigtails

The new electrical box is mounted to the wall with two screws and the wires nutted together. The back of the box was sealed against the wall with a length 1/2 inch thick foam weatherstrip to keep out rain and bugs.

Mounting the New Electrical Box

The In-LineLinc and floodlight wiring connections are made in this photo per the User Guide, the light is ready for final assembly.

In-LineLinc and Floodlight Wiring Connections

The In-LineLinc and wires are gently folded and pressed into the electrical box. The floodlight is fastened with a large screw to the center hole of the brass mounting bar. Not shown for clarity is the foam weatherseal between the box and floodlight.

I found it necessary to shorten the 2 inch long mounting screw by about 3/4 inches with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel, because the screw was so long that it hit the body of the In-LineLinc. Do not use bolt cutters because it will damage the threads.

In-LineLinc and Wires ready Final Assembly

The light is now fully assembled and ready for use.

Motion Activated Floodlight wired with Insteon In-LineLinc

Device Linking and Floodlight Scene

A different floodlight by the kitchen door is controlled by a ToggleLinc switch. I linked the lower deck floodlight containing the In-LineLinc (responder) to the ToggleLinc (controller) via the ISY-99i Administrative Console via a scene named “Kitchen Deck Floodlight”.

Floodlight Scene in the ISY-99i Admin Console

The way the two floodlights work is:

• The newly installed deck stair floodlight (i.e. In-LineLinc) turns ON/OFF when the motion sensor is triggered.
• The deck stair floodlight turns ON when the kitchen floodlight (ToggleLinc switch) is manually turned ON by flipping the switch via the scene. This lights up the main deck and stairs together on opposite ends of the house. Very convenient!

Other cool things to do are an ALL ON command and writing programs to turn on other lights when motion is sensed by the In-LineLinc floodlight. I also can control everything via any Internet connection and web browser, too!

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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