The new Speedi-Boot™ 6″ air vent is set in the drywall ceiling cutout, ready to be fastened to the steel suspended ceiling runners with sheet metal screws.

Speedi-Boot Air Vent in Drywall Ceiling

Telescoping Arm Attachment

The Speedi-Boot air vent features adjustable telescoping arms that extend for a perfect fit. The arms have factory-installed nails for nailing to wood studs or trusses, however nails won’t work with the steel ceiling runners. Instead, I will fasten the arms to the steel runners with 1/2″ sheet metal screws using the factory-made pilot holes. Simple!

Speedi-Boot Installation with Sheet Metal Screws

Each of the four arms are secured to the steel runners with a single sheet metal screw. Here’s a close-up of how the telescoping arm is fastened with a 1/2″ sheet metal screw to the suspended ceiling steel runner.

Speedi-Boot Telescoping Arm Installation with Sheet Metal Screws

Flexible Air Duct Installation

Slip the inner core of the 6″ flexible air duct over the Speedi-Boot collar and secure with metal foil tape, smoothing the tape for an air tight seal. The 90° vent boot is ideal for situations like this where there’s no insulation, making for direct alignment with the flexible duct to avoid kinks.

Speedi-Boot™ 90 Degree Air Vent Installation

Slide the flexible duct insulated outer jacket over the Speedi-Boot and secure with a 36″ long zip tie.

Flexible Duct Out Jacket and Zip Tie

You can find the 36″ HVAC ductwork zip ties in the vent and duct supply section of most home improvement stores.

Trunkline Ductwork Take-Off

A 6″ inch starting collar is installed for the new take-off in the rigid trunkline air duct. For details of how to cut the hole and attach the starting collar, see this related project.

Starting Collar in the Rigid Trunk Ductwork

The 6″ flexible duct is cut to length and attached to the starting collar with metal foil tape and a zip tie in as was done for the Speedi-Boot air vent.

Flexible Duct Takeoff in the Trunkline Ductwork

View of the 6″ flexible duct routed through the ceiling crawlspace to the Speedi-Boot air vent.

Flexible Duct Routed through the Ceiling Crawlspace

Overhead view of the new 6″ flexible air duct takeoff from the rigid trunkline ductwork. Notice the 1-3/4″ nylon web duct hanger strap supporting the air duct between the 2×4 wall studs.

Flexible Air Duct Extension from the Trunkline

Flexible duct must be supported with hanger straps at least every 5 feet in suspended installations.

Ceiling Register Installation

Back to the main room in the finished basement to install the ceiling register. Speedi-Boots feature a cardboard dust cover to keep out dirt and paint.

Speedi-Boot Air Vent Dust Cover

Remove the dust cover to reveal a pristine air vent.

Speedi-Boot Air Vent Ceiling Installation

The ceiling register is fastened with two screws to the Speedi-Boot register pilot holes. I choose a vent register with adjustable vanes and a handle-operated louver to close the vent in summer and open in winter when extra heat is needed in the basement room.

Ceiling Register

View of the completed Speedi-Boot air vent installation in the basement ceiling. The air flow from the new vent can be felt in the middle of the room – nice! The basement should be a lot more conformable this winter.

New Speedi-Boot Air Vent in the Finished Basement Ceiling

Speedi-Boot’s unique telescoping arms and screw attachment option made it easy to locate the air vent in the suspended drywall ceiling, where a installing a raw vent boot would be a real challenge.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

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My finished basement has 14 feet high ceilings because the house sits on a hillside and the basement is deep. The finished basement is cool and pleasant in the summer, but needs more heat in the winter in the main room with many windows and french doors.

Speedi-Boot™ Air Vent on Suspended Drywall Ceiling

The room is served by two 4″ in air ducts mounted high on the wall. The problem is the heated air blows horizontally across the ceiling and doesn’t reach floor level. I found it easy to install a Speedi-Boot™ air vent in the suspended drywall ceiling pointing downward where the heated air is needed. Speedi-Boot made this possible where a raw vent boot would’ve been very difficult here.

Speedi-Boot™ Air Vent

The new air vent is the Speedi-Boot 90° 6″x10″ model with a 6″ round duct collar. Speedi-Boot features include telescoping arms that easily adjust to fit between the studs, trusses and suspended ceiling steel runners; an integral mud ring and foam gasket; and can be fastened with the pre-installed nails or screws. I found it to be an excellent project for old work and remodeling jobs.

Speedi-Boot 6"x10"x6" Air Vent Model SBH-6106NB

For an in-depth look at Speedi-Boot and the necessary ductwork installation materials and tools, see this installation project.

Suspended Drywall Ceiling Air Vent Installation

The new 6″ air vent will be set in the ceiling midway between the two exiting 4″ air vents. A 16 foot extension ladder is used to reach the 14 foot high ceiling in the finished basement.

16 Foot Extension Ladder for the New Ceiling Air Vent

This is the crawlspace above the hallway and suspended drywall ceiling. I was careful to walk only on the 2×4 framing members because the drywall isn’t strong enough to take a persons weight. The most difficult part of the job is working in a crouched position while balanced on the 2×4 framing.

Suspended Drywall Ceiling Crawlspace

The steel ceiling runners for the suspended drywall ceiling are “true and square” to the walls; I was therefore able to layout the vent with a relative to the ceiling runners. I set the vent about 12 inches away from the wall and drew the rectangle for the Speedi-Boot cutout with a carpenter’s square and felt tip pen.

Laying Out the Air Vent on the Drywall Ceiling

The inner rim of the Speedi-Boot 6″x10″ vent required a rough-in cutout of 6-3/8″ by 10-1/2″. Notice the finishing nail in the lower right-hand corner of the marked rectangle. I drove the finishing nail in each corner of the red rectangle to make a small hole as a validation check for the vent location. I’ll look at my corner holes from the room below… just to be extra certain the cut for the new vent would “look right”. The small holes made by the finishing nail are easy to fill with a bit of spackle in case my measurements are off and I need to relocate the vent cutout.

Drywall Ceiling Layout for the New Air Vent

The four corner holes I made with the finishing nail are square with the wall – see the yellow lines in this next photo. Time to go back to the ceiling crawlspace and cut the hole for the new air vent.

Finishing Nail Holes in the Drywall Ceiling Marking the New Vent

My teenage son was finally out of bed on this weekend morning. He “cheerfully” volunteered to hold a plastic tub to catch the drywall dust from my sawing. Yes, I could saw the hole while standing on the ladder, but dust would go everywhere. This way there’s no mess and no cleanup.

Plastic Tub against the Ceiling to Catch Dust

A drywall jab saw makes quick work of sawing the hole for the new air vent. The plastic tub held against the ceiling catches the dust.

Tip: Jab a pocket knife blade or screw driver into the saw kerf on the opposite side of the drywall panel before making the final cut. This will hold the panel in position to eliminate any chance of it falling prematurely and tearing the paper face of the drywall as you finish sawing.

Saw the Hole for the New Air Vent in the Drywall Ceiling

The plastic tub worked well for catching the saw dust.

Plastic Tub Dust Catcher

The Speedi-Boot fits nicely in the ceiling rough-in. Notice the gray foam gasket around the inner rim and that makes an air tight seal against the drywall.

Speedi-Boot Drywall Ceiling Rough-In

This project is continued in Part 2.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

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The Speedi-Boot™ air vent is fastened by nailing the feet of the telescoping arms to the wood joists with the pre-installed nails (you can also use screws). This is where the Speedi-Boot really shines compared to a raw vent boot where I’d have to measure, saw and mount 2″x4″ blocks to build a box frame.

Remember, the Speedi-Boot can be mounted perpendicular (as shown) or parallel (turned 90 degrees) to the joists by removing the telescoping arms and reinstalling on the other side as illustrated in Part 1 of this project.

Mounting the Speedi-Boot Air Vent

Installation Tip: Lightly press and hold the Speedi-Boot against the drywall for a snug fit while nailing the feet.

Flexible Air Duct Installation

Push back the fiberglass outer jacket to expose the coiled-wire inner core of the air duct. Slide the inner core over the Speedi-Boot as shown.

Slide the Air Duct Inner Core over the Speedi-Boot Air Vent

Secure the duct to the Speedi-Boot with metal foil HVAC tape. Smooth out all wrinkles for an air tight seal.

Seal the Flexible Duct to the Speedi-Boot with Metal Foil Tape

Slide the insulated outer jacket over the neck of the Speedi-Boot and secure with a zip-tie. Trim off the excess tail of the zip tie.

Secure the Insulated Jacket to the Speedi-Boot with a Zip Tie

Lay the flexible air duct as straight as possible and cover the Speedi-Boot with insulation.

Speedi-Boot Air Vent and Flexible Air Duct

Take care to provide a generous radius on all bends in the flexible air duct to avoid kinks that would restrict the air flow.

Rigid Air Duct Trunk Line Take-Off

The new air vent branch line will be connected to the rigid air duct trunk. I strongly recommend against splicing into an existing supply branch line if at all possible, i.e. making a wye or tee connection, because this can result in insufficient air flow for comfort. However, if you’re installing a return air vent, then splicing into an existing branch line is OK.

Place the starting collar in the center of the rigid duct and trace a circle to cut the mounting hole.

Trace for Starting Collar Take-Off on Trunk Air Duct

Cut the starting collar hole with a utility knife.

Cut for the Starting Collar in the Rigid Air Duct

The starting collar is installed with the mounting fingers inside the air duct.

Insert the Starting Collar - Fingers Down

Reach inside the starting collar and bend the fingers outward 90 degrees to secure it the rigid air duct.

Spread the Mounting Fingers to Secure the Starting Collar

The starting collar is sealed to the rigid air duct with metal foil tape.

Seal the Starting Collar with Metal Foil Tape

Use only minimum length plus an extra 2 feet of flexible air duct needed to span the distance from the air vent to the starting collar. Cut the outer- an inner jackets with a utility knife or scissors, then cut the spring wire on the inner jacket with wire snips. My pocket Leatherman has wire snips at the base of the pliers tool. Fasten and seal the inner duct with metal foil tape.

Fasten the Air Duct Inner Core to the Starting Collar

The air duct installation is completed with a zip tie.

Zip Tie the Flexible Air Duct to the Starting Collar

Here’s the new flexible air duct branch line:

New Air Duct Branch Line

The attic work is now complete.

Air Register Installation

I’m ready to install the air register on the new Speedi-Boot vent. Speedi-Boots have dust covers to keep out spray paint, dirt and debris. The dust cover is especially helpful for floor installations to keep out dirt during while remodeling or adding a new room.

Speedi-Boot Air Vent Ceiling Installation

Remove the dust cover:

Remove the Speedi-Boot Dust Cover

The air register is attached with two screws that fit into the register pilot holes on the Speedi-Boot. The screws clamp the register and Speedi-Boot together, compressing the foam rubber gasket of the mud ring to the drywall for an air-tight seal. Compare this to a raw vent boot that leaks air into the attic.

I recommend a 1/4″ hex socket driver because a screw driver can damage the screw heads. I also filled the hole from the finishing nail with a dab of drywall spackle – it’s the slightly off-white area near the bottom right corner of the vent.

Attach the Air Register to the Speedi-Boot Vent

Air registers are available in many styles – I chose this model because it had movable vanes with a handle operated louver to open & close it with the change in seasons.

Air Register Opened

Photo of the final vent installation. The new vent made a marked improvement in my home office that was too warm because of the heat generated by my computer and networking equipment.

New Speedi-Boot Air Vent

The Speedi-Boot is huge improvement in air vent installation speed, fit, finish, and quality.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

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The new 4″x8″air vent will compliment an existing 6″x10″ air vent in my upstairs office. The computers and networking equipment generate a lot of heat and extra cooling is needed in the summer. On the other hand, the heat is welcome in the winter and I’ll close the vent louvers when it’s not needed.

New Air Vent Location on Ceiling

Locating the Air Vent on the Ceiling

I measured about 12 inches away from the wall and midway in the center to set the rough location for the new heating and cooling air vent. A couple of taps on the ceiling with my knuckles returned a hollow sound, indicating I was somewhere between the ceiling joists. I drove a small finishing nail in the ceiling so I could find the position of the air vent in the attic. The small nail leaves a small hole that is easy to fill with spackle if this turns out to be a bad place for the vent.

Finishing Nail in Ceiling to Locate the Air Vent

Planning the Duct Work for the New Vent

It’s important to figure out how the air duct connections will be made before you cut holes in the ceiling. Planning questions are:

1. How will I route a new branch line from the trunk air duct to the new vent? Are there any obstructions or difficulties?
2. Where will I install the take-off (starting collar) on the trunk air duct?
3. How many feet of flexible duct do I need?
4. Do I have sufficient HVAC capacity to serve the new air vent?
   This is a more complex question. My modification for the 4″x8″ vent is a small one, so it wasn’t a real concern.

Based on relative measurements from the existing air vent, I knew to search for the finishing nail in the general area indicated by the yellow box. The air vent branch line will be connected to the square trunk duct to the left. The attic space is high and open – this will be a simple job.

Safety Notice!

Step carefully and only place your weight on the  joists or you will step and/or fall through the drywall ceiling! Move slowly and be certain of your footing before putting weight on your foot.

General Area for the New Air Vent in the Attic

The branch lines for the air ducts to the various rooms are connected to the rigid duct board trunk that is fed from the attic air handler which is just out of view to the left. I’ll make the take-off for the new air vent from the square trunk.

Heating and Air Conditioning Ducts in Attic

Speedi-Boot Air Vent Installation

Brushing away the blown fiberglass insulation, I located the finishing nail in the drywall ceiling. I measured the 13 inch gap between the ceiling joists and noted the position of the finishing nail from the wood joist. I got lucky and this location will be fine.

Finishing Nail in Drywall between Ceiling Joists

Next, I needed to mark where to cut the rough opening for the new air vent on the ceiling. I took measurements of the Speedi-Boot™ mud ring opening to cut the hole in the ceiling. A rectangle 8.5″ by 4.5″ will be fine. You could also go with an 8-3/4″ opening to fully expose the register pilot holes. I prefer to keep the rough opening in the drywall close and will make a small notch in the drywall with a utility knife to expose the register pilot holes.

Speedi-Boot Rough Opening Measurements

Referring to the above photo, another neat feature of the Speedi-Boot are the corner pilot holes in the mud-ring for mounting the vent boot to the bottom of a floor deck with screws.

Air Vent Orientation

Decide now if you will install the air vent parallel or perpendicular to the wall. Air vents are normally installed parallel (lengthwise) when next to a wall or window. I chose to install the new vent perpendicular (short side towards the wall) to better direct the register louvers and airflow across the room. The Speedi-Boot will install in either orientation.

After adjusting my measurements to center the vent on the ceiling, I laid out the 8.5″x4.5″ vent cutout on the ceiling. I drew my lines a bit heavy in pencil for the photo, you’ll want to draw your lines as lightly as possible.

Vent Boot Layout on the Ceiling Drywall

After you draw the outline for the vent boot cut, stand back a distance to make sure everything “looks right” and is square with the wall.

Instead of the sawing the drywall from below, I decided to the make the cutout from the attic. To locate the rectangle from the attic, I drove the finishing nail into each of the four corners, taking care to drive the nail plumb (or straight) for accuracy.

Ceiling Layout for Vent Boot Cutout

No Dust Cutout

Instead of sawing the cutout from below and having dust fall all over the room, I decided on another way – sawing from above in the attic.

I was working early in the morning to take advantage of cooler attic temperatures and beat the sun. My teenage son wouldn’t be awake for several more hours, so I didn’t have a helper. I therefore fastened a kitchen trash bag to the ceiling with safe-release painters tape to catch the drywall dust as I sawed. This worked wonderfully! If you have a helper, have the person hold a plastic bin or trash can against the ceiling instead of the trash bag. Use a bag that’s large enough for generous clearance around the cutout to avoid damage by the saw blade.

Use only safe- or clean release painters tape to avoid damage to the ceiling when the tape is removed! Do not use duct tape, cellophane tape, packing tape, etc. or it will pull the paint and/or paper facing off the drywall.

Trash Bag Dust Catcher

Back in the attic, I used a straight edge to connect the corner pilot holes made by the finishing nail with a red felt tip pen for saw guides. I used the jab saw to piece the drywall and make cuts. The jab saw made for quick work.

Air Vent Boot Cutout in the Drywall Ceiling

I stabbed the side of the cutout with my Leatherman to prevent it from falling through the hole as I neared the final cut. I did this because I didn’t want the drywall cutout to fall heavily into the plastic trash bag and jerk the tape off the ceiling making a mess.

Vent Boot Ceiling Cutout Almost Finished

Speedi-Boot air vent cutout in the drywall ceiling. The trash bag dust catcher worked great! I used a small ball of insulation to push the remaining dust into the trash bag.

Speedi-Boot Air Vent Cutout in the Drywall Ceiling

This project is concluded in Part 3.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

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Speedi-Boot™ Vent Boot and Air Duct Materials

The materials needed for this project are:

• 4″ x 8″ square Speedi-Boot air vent, model SBH-484SB
• 4″ diameter x 25 feet of insulated flexible duct
• 4″ diameter starting collar
• 36″ nylon zip ties
• Aluminum foil tape for HVAC applications
• 8″ x 4″ ceiling/wall register

Tools

You’ll need the following tools:

• Square
• Hammer
• Finishing nail
• Safe-release tape painter’s tape
• Jab saw for cutting drywall
• Utility Knife
• 1/4″ hex socket driver
• Tape Measure
• Pencil

Room Air Vent Installation Tools

I also needed plastic trash bag for catching drywall dust.

Speedi-Boot™ Air Vent Features

Speedi-Boot is a patented air vent that is available in 120 different sizes and boot styles that really simplifies air vent installation. I wish I’d known about this product when I installed the air vent in my daughter’s bedroom because it would’ve saved me the time and effort of building a 2×4 frame to mount a raw boot and several extra trips to the attic.

Compare the two Speedi-Boots in this photo to the raw vent boot on the right.

Speedi-Boot™ Compared to a Raw Vent Boot

Well, there’s really no comparison. Here’s a closer look at a 90 degree 6″ x 10″ raw boot and Speedi-Boot model SBH-6106NB:

Speedi-Boot Compared to Raw Air Vent Boot

In my view, the primary features of the Speedi-Boot are:

1. Easy installation due to the reversible telescoping arms and pre-installed nails.
2. Galvanized mud ring and foam rubber gasket for a leak free seal against the ceiling, wall or floor.
3. High quality construction, rigid and well made.
4. Good price for value.

The 6″x10″x6″ Speedi-Boot costs $14.95 compared to the raw boot price of $6.75 at Home Depot. Remember, the raw boot price doesn’t include the lumber, nails, extra labor and aggravation to build a mounting frame.

Speedi-Boot™ Telescoping Arms

An important feature of Speedi-Boot are the reversible telescoping mounting arms to mount the vent either perpendicular or parallel to the joists, trusses or studs. The telescoping arms slide out for mounting with the provided nails or you can use screws. The default configuration has the set for perpendicular mounting.

Speedi-Boot Telescoping Arms - Perpendicular Mount

The arms have a retention detent to prevent them from falling out. The arms can be removed with a quick tug.

Speedi-Boot Telescoping Arms

Insert the arms in the other direction for parallel mounting to change the vent orientation by 90 degrees.

Speedi-Boot Telescoping Arms - Parallel Mount

What if the arms are too long to fit between your wall studs, floor- or ceiling joists? Simple – the telescoping arms have score points to bend and snap off a section to shorten the arm without tools. Just hold the arm in two hands, place a thumb behind the score point, flex back a forth once or twice and the arm snaps cleanly in two.

Break-Away Score Points on Telescoping Arms

This project is continued in Part 2.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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The mesh screen flip-up gutter covers weren’t doing the job, so I installed bullnose style metal gutter covers that slide under the shingles. These gutter covers cost about $1.35/foot and are available in 4ft and 10ft lengths from a local gutter supply company. Here I’ve got the main section installed and about to install covers on the outside corner. These things get almost too hot to touch on a sunny day!

Metal Gutter Covers

The gutter covers serve two purposes:

1. To keep debris out of the gutter while avoiding trash build-up on the roof like those flip-up metal covers I had on before.
2. To keep squirrels out of the attic. Recall the gap between the roof deck and fascia board I described in Part 1.

The gutter covers appear to be working well. What I’ve been able to observe so far is even heavy rain is wicked into the gutter and leaves go over the side. Fall and Spring will be the real test.  See this article for a detailed gutter cover project writeup.

Painting the Soffit and Fascia

I painted the gutter, fascia and soffit with Sherwin-Williams Duration Exterior Acrylic Latex paint. The Duration paint is thicker than standard paints, self-priming, low odor and dries quickly. You get maybe 4 or 5 brush strokes before it starts to thicken. The texture when dry is like a coat of plastic – impressive. I think the quality is right there with Benjamin-Moore MoorGlo® paint.

Sherwin-Williams Duration Exterior Paint

The Sherwin-Williams Duration paint is expensive – wait for a 25% off sale if you can. Visit your local Sherwin-Williams store and have them put your contact info. in their database (it’s free), you’ll receive e-mail coupons and sales notices.

The new soffit and fascia look great after painting. The last thing to do is install a soffit vent.

Soffit and Fascia Repair after Painting

Another view of the finished job.

Soffit and Fascia Repair After Painting

The soffit repair is done. Might as well do some more painting while I’ve got the scaffold.

Roof Ladder and Scaffold

I took advantage of the scaffold to clean & re-slope the gutters, install new gutter covers and do some painting and caulking on the windows and trim.

The soffit and fascia repair required about 4 hours once all the tools, roof brackets, ladders and scaffold were in place. I did the work over two different evenings, stopping only because it got dark on me.

The materials cost were:

• $21.97 for a 3/8″ x 4′ x 8′ sheet of sanded plywood for the soffit
• $31.28 for an 18′ x 1′ x 8′ piece of TUF board for the fascia
• $92.00 to rent the scaffold for 7-days
• ~$30.00 for gutter sealant, gutter screws, caulk and misc. supplies
• $40.00 to rent a Home Depot trunk ($19.95 each trip) to pickup and return the scaffold
• ~$58.00 for a gallon of Sherwin-Williams Duration paint. I bought several gallons while it was on sale.

I already had a good stock of exterior wood screws and all the tools I needed.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

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With the new soffit and fascia installed, it’s time to rehang the gutter. The gutter was originally fastened with gutter spikes nailed into the rafter tails. Gutter spikes are similar to big nails. The problem with gutter spikes is they tend to work themselves out and become loose.

Gutter Screws versus Gutter Spikes

I used gutter screws to reattach the gutter. Gutter screws won’t back out like smooth spikes and hold better. The gutter screws are on the left and center in the above photo.

Reinstall the Gutter

The old gutter sealant is scraped off the end of the gutter and all dirt is washed off. Do the same for the mating gutter end at the front of the roof.

The corner gutter joint is fastened with aluminum pop rivets: 1/8″ rivets for the face and 3/8″ rivets on the bottom. A pop rivet tool with several head sizes is needed.

Pop Rivets for Gutter Joint

The gutter is laid on the roof and the corner fastened with pop rivets, observing the original sheet metal folds. It was important to fasten this end first because it established the “high end” for proper slope and water drainage. I haven’t installed the gutter screws yet because this short section of gutter is light, rigid and the far end sits against and is supported by the roof.

Gutter Joint Fastened with Pop Rivets

The corner seam of the gutters is sealed with gutter sealant that is applied to the inside of the gutter. Take care to remove the old sealant and dirt before applying sealant from both gutter sections.

Gutter Sealer

Gutter Screws

Gutter screws are simple to install with a cordless drill/driver. I wasn’t able to get a decent photo working over my head on the 2nd story, though this photo from work I was doing later illustrates the installation. Lift the shingles to double check the screw is aligned with the rafter tail before installing.

Attach the Gutter with Gutter Screws

The 11 foot section of gutter was short enough that it didn’t sag with the far end resting on the roof, so it wasn’t necessary to chalk a line to maintain the proper slope. In fact, the slope was an aggressive 3/4″ over the 11 foot length.

A view of the scaffold and re-installed gutter with the new soffit and fascia:

Gutter, Soffit and Fascia

The soffit joints are caulked with a paintable exterior grade silicone caulk.

Gutter, Soffit and TUF board Fascia

Flashing to Protect the Soffit

TheTUF Board PVC fascia won’t rot if it gets wet, however the plywood soffit will eventually rot if it gets wet.

To prevent rain water from leaking under the fascia and onto the soffit again, I slipped a 4″ x 8″ section of flashing under the shingles and over the gutter end at the roof valley to direct the rain water away from the fascia.

Flashing over the Gutter and Roof Valley

I crawled into the attic during two different rainy periods and confirmed the flashing kept the water out. It worked like great. This bit of flashing cost less than 50 cents and were installed when the house was built it would’ve saved me all this work!

This project is concluded in Part 5.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

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The scaffold is positioned at the corner of the roof so I can easily reach the corner of the roof to pull off the fascia board. I arranged the aluminum scaffold planks as shown so I could reach the corner of the roof from the upper plank or walk onto the roof from the lower plank.

Scaffold in Position to Remove the Fascia and Soffit

Also, if I slipped off the roof the scaffold would catch me – at least that’s theory!

Remove the Rotted Fascia Board

Having removed the gutter, the rotted end of the fascia board where it meets the roof is easy to see.

Rotted End of the Fascia Board

Looking down the fascia board toward the corner of the roof. Notice the open end of the gutter at the corner.

Far end of Fascia Board

I’m sitting the ladder that I laid on the roof against the 2×6 board and roof brackets. I wouldn’t want to be doing this job without the scaffolding!

View of the Scaffold from the Ladder on the Roof

And the view from the porch deck of the scaffold and ladder.

View of Scaffold and Ladder Arrangement from the Deck

Remove the Rotted Fascia Board

I began by cutting caulk lines between the fascia and soffit with a utility knife.

The fascia board was surprisingly easy to pull off the house while standing on the scaffold. I tapped the corner-end of the fascia with the hammer and used the pry bar to wedge it free. Then I worked the end of the fascia board to pull the entire length free.

Pulling off the Rotted Fascia Board

Remove the Soffit

I climbed the ladder on the roof to inspect the soffit. The soffit was full of hickory nuts and sawdust from the squirrels!

Rotted Plywood Soffit

Plywood soffit, 2×4 lookouts (“lookouts” are horizontal framing the soffit is nailed to) and rafters looking towards the corner of the house:

Plywood Soffit and Debris from Squirrels

Yes Dorothy, here’s another example of the incompetence of the carpenters, who must’ve been drinking with the electricians.  Notice the extra 2×4 blocks nailed beside too-short lookouts so the ends would be flush for the fascia board. There’s a reason why the company that built my home went out of business shortly after it was finished! Good thing this is decorative finishing and not structural work.

The soffit was fastened with two inch staples to the 2×4 lookouts. The lookouts provide a nailing base for the soffit. I removed the soffit by working the pry bar between the 2×4 lookouts and soffit. Hickory nuts, saw dust and fossilized squirrel droppings rained down!

This is the water damaged 2ft x 7ft section of plywood soffit.

Plywood Soffit with Water Damage

Notice the rain water stains at the bottom right where the soffit contacted the roof.

Install New Soffit and Fascia

I bought a 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/8″ thick Georgia-Pacific Plytanium® sanded plywood for the soffit and an 18 foot long 1″ x 8″ TUF board^® Trim­board for the fascia and cut each to the size of the original members.

TUF board^® is PVC plastic product with a light wood grain one side and is smooth on the other. TUF Board is waterproof and rot proof with a lifetime guarantee, can be cut and nailed just like wood and is paintable. This is just what I needed for direct contact with the roof shingles! TUF Board appears to be sold exclusively by Home Depot, which is convenient for me.

I measured and cut the plywood with a circular power saw. I used my Dewalt Compound Mitre Saw to cut the TUF board. The TUF board required two cuts:

• Miter cut to mate with the 45 degree angle of the other fascia board at the corner of the house.
  The miter cut at the bottom of the next photo. Make this cut first!
  
• Measure the board length to make the 2nd cut to match the 12/12 roof pitch.
  For simplicity I used the old board to mark the angle, which for a 12/12 pitch roof is 45 degrees.

New Soffit and TUF board® Fascia

I’ll rehang the original gutter section as well.

The new section of plywood is fastened to the 2×4 lookouts with 1-1/2″ exterior panhead screws. The most difficult part was holding the plywood in place until I could sink the first screw. Notice the sanded side of the plywood is facing down for the best presentation.

New Section of Plywood Soffit Installed

The TUF board PVC fascia is attached to the 2×4 looks with 2-1/2″ stainless steel exterior wood screws.

TUFF board Fascia Installed

Remember to apply a small bead of caulk to the end of the fascia board at the 45 corner joint before attaching it to the lookouts. This is to protect the original wood fascia along the front of the house.

This project is continued in Part 4.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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The fascia board and soffit is rotted due to rain water damage where it meets the main roof and must be replaced. I installed roof brackets and a 2″x6″ board on the 12/12 pitch roof and laid a 16 foot extension ladder on the roof as shown here:

Roof Brackets and Ladders for Rotted Soffit and Fascia Repair

I found that laying a ladder on the roof as shown to be quite stable and easy to work on.

How Rain Water Leaked Behind the Fascia Board and Soffit

The gable roof joins (left side with gutter) the main house (right side) to form a valley. The gutter end is trimmed and sloped to match the 12/12 pitch of the main roof. I had these wire mesh flip-up gutter covers installed a few years ago and I don’t recommend them. These gutter covers do a good job at keeping debris out of the gutter with an almost equal amount trash piled on top. The oak and hickory trees behind my house drop catkins in the spring and leaves in the fall. The tulip poplar trees drop blossoms and seeds. The catkins are the worst, long and stringy.

Gutter at the Roof Valley

I cleared away the debris and took a look at where the fascia board meets the main roof. It’s easy to see how rain water is weeping under and behind the fascia board, causing it to rot.

Fascia Board at Roof Junction

Closeup view of the fascia and soffit showing the water damage:

Water Damage to Fascia and Soffit

Looking down along the roof edge and flip-up gutter covers. This whole section of gutter needs to come off to replace the fascia board. The far end is two stories high above the back porch deck.

Gutter Covers and Roof Edge

Did I mention that I don’t like heights?

Scaffolding

To replace the rotted fascia and soffit, I need to remove the gutter. The problem is outside gutter corner (see 1st photo at the beginning of this article) is 7 feet above the lower roof and too high to reach while standing on the roof bracket and 2×6 board. I’d be teetering unsafely on the edge, too!

My 24 foot extension ladder will just reach over the upper gutter at the corner of the house, but I’d be standing too high on the ladder for safety and still couldn’t reach out far to the do the work.

The solution was to rent three sections of scaffolding, aluminum walking boards and wheels from the local tool rental company. A seven (7) day rental cost me only $92.00. (Shop around because some places quoted almost twice as much for a weeks rental!)  I rented a truck from Home Depot for $19.95 to haul it myself – if you have a pick up truck then you can use that instead. The total cost for the scaffolding and truck rental both ways was about $140.00.

Scaffolding for Soffit and Fascia Repair Work

Each section of scaffolding is 5 ft wide by 7 ft long by 5 feet tall. Three sections stacked together are 15 feet high. The scaffold is assembled in sections without tools – two end frames and two cross bars – per cube. I kept the scaffold for the full week to also install new gutter covers and do some painting.

I couldn’t have comfortably and safely done this job by myself without the scaffolding. Compared to standing on a ladder, scaffolding is world of improvement. You can stack all your tools on the scaffold and save time versus running up and down a ladder.

The locking wheels were essential so I could roll the scaffold the full length of the house along the deck.

Remove the Gutter

The gutter wraps around the corner and the two sections are fastened with pop-rivets and sealed with gutter sealant. Pop rivets are easy to remove by drilling off the rivet head with 1/4″ drill bit. The drill cuts through the rivet head to separate it from the rivet body. Take care to not drill through the gutter. Use a utility knife to cut the gutter sealant to separate the seams.

Drilling Rivets to Separate the Gutter

The gutter was easy to remove from the fascia by slipping the flat end of the nail puller behind the head of the gutter spikes and giving it a couple of tapes with the hammer. Most of the gutter spikes were somewhat loose and the gutter came off without trouble.

Hammer and Nail Puller/Pry Bar

The approx. 12 feet of aluminum gutter was very light and rigid.

Gutter Section off the House

I’ll rehang the gutter after I install the new fascia and soffit.

This project is continued in Part 3.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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The fascia board rotted because it rested on the roof shingles and soaked up rain water. The wood fascia board was replaced with rot-proof PVC composite board and installing roof flashing to channel the rain water away from the fascia and soffit.

The rotted area is shown here where the fascia board rests on the main roof:

Rotted Fascia and Soffit at Roof Junction

A challenge is working on a 12/12 pitch steep roof on the second story of the home.

Rotted Fascia and Soffit

I noticed the plywood soffit was cracked and curling under the eaves on where it contacted the main roof. It was difficult to fully assess the problem from ground level, so I got a ladder and zoomed in with my camera. Definitely a water intrusion problem here:

Water Damage to Fascia and Soffit

Attic Inspection

I didn’t have to wait very long for a rainy day to look at the problem from inside the attic. I carefully maneuvered myself in the attic to get a look at soffit from the inside. I did this for two reasons:

1. To see the extent of the rain water intrusion.
2. To better understand the soffit and frame construction.

The soffit is located below the rafter ends in the yellow square in this next photo:

Attic and Eave with Soffit Area

I couldn’t get close enough to the exterior wall to see into the soffit cavity due to the wedge of the roof and nails sticking out, but I was able to reach out with the camera and take photos. There are several problems here:

1. Rain water is soaking the fascia board where it contacts the roof. This is the blackened area.
2. Rain water is leaking and pooling on top of the plywood soffit.
3. Squirrels have gotten into the attic at some point during the last 9 years to store nuts, leaving a mess.

Rain Water Leaking on the Fascia and Soffit

Closeup of the fascia board water damage where it lays on the roof. It was raining when I took these photos. The rain water is leaking onto and behind the fascia board.

Wet and Rotted Fascia Board where it Meets the Roof Shingles

I checked between the roof rafters along the soffit. The story was pretty much the same along this section of the soffit. Rain water intrusion and nuts from squirrels in the attic.

Attic View - Roof Deck, Rafters, Lookouts, Fascia and Plywood Soffit

Notice the large gap between the OSB roof deck and the top of the fascia board in the above photo. The shingles lay over this gap into the gutter. Such a large gap in my opinion is sloppy construction and squirrels can get into the attic by wiggling in through this gap. All my neighbors say their houses are were built the same way with this large ~2″ gap between the roof deck and fascia. A 1/2″ gap is reasonable but not a 2 inches!

I asked my county building inspector if this was a building code violation, he said there’s nothing in building code on this topic, but if he were on an inspection and saw such a gap he would make the builder rework it. I also spoke with a roofing contractor that I met at a roofing supply store near Atlanta. He nodded knowingly at my problem description and that said particular county had updated the local building code specifically to address this issue.

Two winters ago, I heard scratching noises at night in the attic. I set a box trap and caught a pair of flying squirrels. Flying squirrels are smaller than gray squirrels – about the size of a chipmunk – and an endangered species. I took the pair a few miles down the road to the park and set them free. Haven’t had any problems since.

To keep squirrels out of the attic, you can block the gap between the roof deck and fascia by installing:

1. Wire hardware cloth (wire mesh) under the shingles to keep critters out.
2. Roof drip edge flashing to cover the gap. Also called “eave drip” flashing.The flashing is slid underneath the shingles, nailed to the roof deck and hangs over into the gutter.See this Amerimax illustration for how the roof drip edge flashing works.
3. Gutter covers that fit under the shingles and also cover the ends of the gutter.I chose this option. More details later in this article.

Hint: If you decide to install drip edge flashing, you won’t find many options at the “big box” home improvement stores. Your best bet is to visit a roofing supply store where the professionals shop. I found the sales people at Commercial Roofing Specialties, Inc. to be friendly and helpful with a huge selection of tools and materials.

This repair is continued in Part 2.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

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