The RemoteLinc makes a pleasant beep and the LED illuminates when a button is pressed.

RemoteLinc #2440 - Insteon Wireless Remote Control

The RemoteLinc is perfect for controlling Insteon scenes while seated comfortably on the couch in front of the TV.

The RemoteLinc package includes the remote control, a one sheet Quick Start Guide and four AAA batteries.

RemoteLinc 2440 Remote Control Kit

The RemoteLinc has four rubber feet on the bottom, a nice touch so it doesn’t slide around on the table when you press a key. The Insteon device address is inside the battery compartment.

RemoteLinc 2440 - Rear View

Linking a RemoteLinc: ISY-99i Administrative Console

You don’t need an ISY-99i Home Automation Controller to link and control other Insteon devices with the RemoteLinc. Just follow the instructions in the Quick Start Guide and you’ll be ready in minutes.

I happen to have an ISY-99i controller by Universal Devices, Inc. and the setup is easily done via the Administrative Console. The Universal Devices Wiki page is very helpful, too.

Follow these steps to link a RemoteLinc and control scenes:

Step 1: Click Link Management → Link a RemoteLinc on the Admin Console menu.

Step 2: Put the RemoteLinc in Communications Mode by pressing and holding the Dim and Bright buttons for 10 seconds or until the RemoteLinc LED starts flashing.

Step 3: Enter the RemoteLinc address in the “New Insteon Device” dialog box. Click OK.

The ISY-99i will add the RemoteLinc to the My Lighting inventory, creating an instance for each of the six keypad buttons named [address].1, [address].2, …, [address].6 as illustrated here:

ISY-99i Admin Console - Link a RemoteLinc

Step 4: Rename each of six RemoteLinc Buttons

I prefer to name Insteon devices something more meaningful than the device address. Right-click on each of the six button instances and rename it to your liking. I simply named my buttons “RemoteLinc Btn N” where N is 1 to 6.

Rename the RemoteLinc Buttons

Step 5: Add a RemoteLinc Button to a Scene

Right click on a RemoteLinc button under My Lighting and then click Add to Scene…

Choose a scene from the popup dialog.

The Confirm Add dialog box is displayed with a progress bar.

Add a RemoteLinc Button to a Scene as a Controller

Step 6: Test the Button

The RemoteLinc button is shown as a controller in the scene. Click the RemoteLinc button to confirm the target device operates correctly.

Scene with RemoteLinc Button

Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the other buttons.

Create Custom Button Labels

It’s simple to create custom button labels using the Microsoft Word template at SmartHome.com. Just edit the template, print the page and cut out the new label with scissors. Gently pry off the dust cover, insert the new labels and snap the dust cover back in place.

RemoteLinc Custom Button Labels

The RemoteLinc is great because of it’s ease of use and portability.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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1. Installing an Insteon In-LineLinc Relay for home automation.
2. Adding a 2nd slaved floodlight at the other end of the garage. The slaved floodlight operates with the primary motion floodlight under control of the In-LineLinc.

The details are given in this wiring diagram – click to view a full size image.

Master/Slave Floodlight Wiring Diagram with In-LineLinc

Solution Overview

In a prior articled, I described How to Wire a Motion Activated Floodlight with an Insteon In-LineLinc Relay, which is the simple way to install an In-LineLinc.

The garage installation here is different because I didn’t want to “double up” and use an extra deep junction box for appearances sake; and I wanted to hookup a 2nd floodlight at the other end of the garage as a “slave” unit.

The solution is to run an extra 14/2 NM wire cable from the motion sensor floodlight to the In-LineLinc inside the attic for the “line” (hot) and “sense” (red/yellow) wires. It is helpful to study the above wiring diagram.

Electrical Safety

Working with 120VAC electricity can kill or maim you, burn down the house or deliver an electrical shock that you’ll never forget! If you haven’t studied home electrical wiring, lack a solid knowledge of the electrical building code regulations and don’t know what you are doing, then stop! Hire a professional electrician!

In-LineLinc Relay Installation and Wiring

The Heath Zenith #SL-5412 motion sensor floodlight is located at the corner eave of the garage. The floodlight mounted on a white alumimun electrical box that is too shallow to contain the In-LineLinc.

Garage Motion Sensor Floodlight

This is the view inside the attic showing the original NM 14/2 wire to the floodlight. The floodlight is controlled by a light switch inside the house. This wire will be rerouted to a new junction box inside the attic.

Original Floodlight NM 14/2 Wire run inside the Attic

I began by:

1. Shutting off the power to the circuit at the main electrical panel.
2. Removing the floodlight and junction box to expose the original wire as shown below.
3. Two (2) new 12 foot long lengths of NM 14/2 were cut, taped to the original wire, and pulled into the attic as the original wire is removed. Before pulling, both ends of one cable was marked with a red pen to identify which cable will be the the load & sense wire (see wiring diagram). You need to mark both ends of the same cable.

Removing the Original Floodlight Wires

The two new NM 14/2 cables are shown after pulling into the attic. Note the red identification mark on the cable to be used for the motion sensor line/sense wires.

Two (2) new NM 14/2 Cables Pulled into the Attic

The four cables are brought into a newly installed electrical junction box as shown. Each cable is identified with a permanent marker. Note the neutral (white) wire for the of the load/sense cable has been recoded as yellow (lower left) using a permanent marker. This yellow wire will connect to the sense wire of the In-LineLinc, the other end of this wire will be connected the motion sensor red wire.

New Electrical Junction Box with each Cable Identifed

The wires are sorted and stripped as shown:

Stripping Wires

The junction box wiring for the In-LineLinc, motion floodlight and slave floodlight is complete. The wires enter the junction box from top and bottom in the same arrangement as shown in the wiring diagram. Note that the red load wire of the In-LineLinc is connected to the lamps in both floodlights. The In-LineLinc is rated to 480 watts and my lights use a total of four (4) 26 watt compact fluorescent bulbs for a total load of only 104 watts.

Completed In-LineLinc and Floodlight Junction Box Wiring

Here’s another view of the In-LineLinc wiring:

Floodlight and In-LineLinc Wiring

Floodlight Wiring

Two (2) new runs of NM 14/2 electrical cable enter the floodlight junction box as shown. Note the red/yellow marking on the line/sense cable that was made before the new cables were pulled into the attic. The white (neutral) wire has been recoded yellow here as well with a permanent marker to correspond with recoded yellow end inside the attic.

Two (2) NM 14/2 Cables at the Floodlight Junction Box

The floodlight is wired and mounted to the outlet box. Note the floodlight red (motion sense) wire is connected to the yellow (sense) wire that feeds to the yellow (sense) input of the In-LineLinc inside the attic. Refer to the wiring diagram for details.

Floodlight Wiring

In-LineLinc Final Installation and Testing

The circuit breaker is turned back on (make sure the light switch is on, too!) and the In-LineLinc and floodlights tested for correct operation. My testing consided of:

1. Manually turning ON/OFF the floodlight via the small buttons on the face of the In-LineLinc.
2. Remotely turning ON/OFF the floodlight via the ISY-99i Admin Console.
3. Putting the motion sensor in Test Mode and walking around.

Everything tested A-OK!

Testing the In-LineLinc and Floodlights

The wires and In-LineLinc are carefully packed inside the electrical junction box.

Packing the Junction Box for Closure

The metal junction box cover is fastened with two screws. Take care that the In-LineLinc buttons are not touching the box cover!

Metal Cover affixed to the Junction Box

Here’s how the new junction box and cables are arranged. Click for a larger image.

Junction Box Electrical Cables

Next Steps

Now I’m ready to do fun things like linking with other Insteon devices, create scenes for coordinated lighting and ISY-99i programs.

Take Care,

Bob Jackson

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The benefits of an In-LineLinc relay in a floodlight are:

• Ability to sense when motion is detected and turn on other lights.
• Remotely turn ON/OFF the floodlight under program control or via the web.
• Operate the floodlight on a daily schedule and/or dim the light until motion is sensed.
• The floodlight still operates normally when the motion sensor is activated.

Motion Activated Floodlight wired with Insteon In-LineLinc

The Insteon In-LineLinc #2475S2 is an ON/OFF relay module with a 120VAC sense input that is ideal for integrating with a Passive Infra-Red (PIR) motion sensor as commonly found on security floodlights. The User Guide is well written with detailed wiring diagrams.

Insteon In-LineLinc #2475S2 Module with Sense

Heath Zenith Floodlight Compatibility

The In-LineLinc is compatible with the PIR motion sensor on “standard” Heath Zenith floodlights (e.g. models SL-5412, SL-5408) as widely sold through home improvement stores. However, in my experience the In-LineLinc does not work with those Heath Zenith models having the Dual-Brite patented dimming feature. So be sure to get a floodlight without Dual-Brite.

Electrical Safety

The following involves working with 120 volt AC electricity that can kill, main or shock the daylights out of you! If you don’t know what you’re doing and how to comply with the electrical building code regulations, then stop and hire a professional licensed electrician.

Preparing the Floodlight

This is a brand new out of the box Heath Zenith #SL-5412-WH floodlight showing the wiring connections. The first thing to do is unbundled the wires by removing the two wire nuts as indicated by the red arrows in the following photo.

Note: This will probably void your product warranty! But it’s a ~$27.00 unit and are you really going to keep the receipt, box it up and mail it back to the manufacturer after 2, 3 or 5 years for warranty replacement if it breaks? Have you noticed those computerized cash register receipts tend to fade to the point it’s unreadable after a year or two? When I buy a really important item, I make a copy of the receipt to have a document that lasts.

Brand New Heath Zenith #SL-5412 Floodlight

The wire nut is crimped flat on two sides. Use pliers to uncrimp it and make the metal part round (or squarish) to release the wires.

Uncrimping the Wire Nuts

After uncrimping the wire nut, pull gently to remove. This is what you have after the two wire nuts are released – see the red squares.

Wire Nuts Removed

Untwist the red and white wires to separate the motion sensor wires from the lights. Discard the short white pigtail wire.

Untwist and Free the Wires

What you now have are:

• Motion sensor wires – all operate at 120VAC:
  - Black (line)
  - White (neutral)
  - Red (sense), output is zero volts when no motion is present, 120 volts when motion is sensed.
• Light socket wires
  - Red (hot) x 2
  - White (neutral) x 2

Weatherproof Electrical Box

I chose the Red Dot (by Thomas & Betts) weatherproof aluminum electrical box to mount the floodlight to an exterior wall. These are available at Home Depot. It was necessary to combine a base box with an extension unit to make room for the In-LineLinc. The Red Dot D-Pak® Dry-tite® part numbers are:

• Base Unit: DS-47-WH
• Box Extension: DSE-47-WH

Here are the two items:

Aluminum Box Extension and Outlet Box

The extension box comes with mounting screws, weather gasket and plugs for unused outlets.

Assembled Extension and Electrical Box

The brass mounting bar for the floodlight fits perfectly and held by two screws in the normal way.

Floodlight Mounting Bar

Trial fitting the foam weather gasket to seal between the electrical box and floodlight.

Weather Gasket

Installing the Floodlight and Wiring the In-LineLinc Relay

First, shut off the power to the floodlight circuit at the main electrical box. Do not rely on the ON/OFF light switch.

In the next photo, I’ve removed the old floodlight. The old floodlight was installed by perhaps the same numbnut electrician that wired my other light switch (search for ‘numbnut’ in that article). My guess the guy who installed the old floodlight cut the wire too short and drilled a new hole with only 2 inches of wire poking out. The floodlight was mounted directly to the wall without an outlet box. Another example of sloppy work by the lowest bidder!

Old Floodlight Mounting Bracket

The way to correct this error is caulk the unused holes and wire 8 inch long pigtails as shown:

Caulking the Holes and Wiring in Pigtails

The new electrical box is mounted to the wall with two screws and the wires nutted together. The back of the box was sealed against the wall with a length 1/2 inch thick foam weatherstrip to keep out rain and bugs.

Mounting the New Electrical Box

The In-LineLinc and floodlight wiring connections are made in this photo per the User Guide, the light is ready for final assembly.

In-LineLinc and Floodlight Wiring Connections

The In-LineLinc and wires are gently folded and pressed into the electrical box. The floodlight is fastened with a large screw to the center hole of the brass mounting bar. Not shown for clarity is the foam weatherseal between the box and floodlight.

I found it necessary to shorten the 2 inch long mounting screw by about 3/4 inches with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel, because the screw was so long that it hit the body of the In-LineLinc. Do not use bolt cutters because it will damage the threads.

In-LineLinc and Wires ready Final Assembly

The light is now fully assembled and ready for use.

Motion Activated Floodlight wired with Insteon In-LineLinc

Device Linking and Floodlight Scene

A different floodlight by the kitchen door is controlled by a ToggleLinc switch. I linked the lower deck floodlight containing the In-LineLinc (responder) to the ToggleLinc (controller) via the ISY-99i Administrative Console via a scene named “Kitchen Deck Floodlight”.

Floodlight Scene in the ISY-99i Admin Console

The way the two floodlights work is:

• The newly installed deck stair floodlight (i.e. In-LineLinc) turns ON/OFF when the motion sensor is triggered.
• The deck stair floodlight turns ON when the kitchen floodlight (ToggleLinc switch) is manually turned ON by flipping the switch via the scene. This lights up the main deck and stairs together on opposite ends of the house. Very convenient!

Other cool things to do are an ALL ON command and writing programs to turn on other lights when motion is sensed by the In-LineLinc floodlight. I also can control everything via any Internet connection and web browser, too!

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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The Insteon Motion Sensor is a model 2420M as you see here. The 9 volt battery and mounting stand are included.

Insteon Wireless Motion Sensor 2420M

Removing the battery cover reveals five jumper pins and Set button. Installation and operation are simple, the Quick Start Guide is available here with the details.

Insteon 2420M Motion Sensor - Rear View

The motion sensor LED is quite bright and flashes when in “Link” mode after pressing the Set button. It also flashes when motion is detected. The LED brightness is configurable on a 0 to 100 scale through the ISY-99i Administrative Console, with 0 (zero) turning off the LED.

Motion Sensor LED

Access Point Wireless Phase Coupler

The 2420M motion sensor is an RF only Insteon device and requires a Access Point RF receiver/phase coupler to communicate with the Insteon power line network. It’s simple to “link” the motion sensor by pressing the Set buttons on both devices per the product instructions.

Customizing the Motion Sensor Settings

The motion sensor Timeout, LED Brightness and Darkness Sensitivity can be customized via the ISY-99i Administrative Console. I left the timeout at the default of 1 minute, set the LED brightness down to 10 because the default value 75 is too bright at night, and left the Darkness Sensitivity at the default of 35.

Linking the Motion Sensor

The motion sensor is linked only to the Access Point wireless receiver. I did not link the motion sensor to the ToggleLinc light switch because I will have an ISY-99i program decided what to do with the motion sensor events.

Insteon Network Overview

Now that I’ve installed the ToggleLinc switch, wireless motion sensor, Access Point wireless coupler, PowerLinc power line modem and ISY-99i home automation controller – I’m ready to begin programming the ISY-99i.

This is my Insteon network so far (click on the image for larger view):

Insteon Network Overview - Porch Lights Automation

Motion Sensor Programming

My requirements for the porch light program are:

1. The porch lights will turn on for 10 minutes when motion is sensed from 30 minutes before sunset to 15 minutes after sunrise.
2. The motion sensor can be overridden by “double clicking” OFF, i.e. pressing the ToggleLinc switch OFF quickly two times, to keep the porch lights off indefinitely. This is useful when I want to look at the stars or for Halloween when the scene should be kept dark to view the decorations.
3. Manually turning the ToggleLinc switch ON will turn on the lights indefinitely and re-enable the motion sensor program. When the switch is manually turned OFF, the motion sensor program takes over again by default.

In practice, the common scenarios are:

• Lights are controlled by the motion sensor by default.
• If I turn the switch ON, the lights stay ON until I turn them OFF.
• If I want to keep the porch lights off for a time, I double click OFF the light switch.
• When I come back inside, I flip the light switch ON/OFF once to re-enable the motion sensor.

An program upgrade would be to include a reset program to run, say, at 30 minutes past sunrise everyday to turn OFF the lights and re-enable the motion sensor in case I manually overrode the lights and forgot to turn them off. Hmm, I think I’ll add this feature – see the update later in this article.

The motion sensor program flow chart is:

Porch Light Program Flow Chart

The ISY-99i program code is kept in a Folder named ‘Front Porch Light’.

Folder Conditions for 'Front Porch Light'
Add conditions to limit when programs in this folder are allowed to run.

If
   - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition')

Then
   Allow the programs in this folder to run.

Comment:
The programs in this folder are:
1) 'Porch Motion Sensed'
2) 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes'
3) 'Porch Light Switched On'
4) 'Porch Light Switched Fast Off'

===========

Program Content for 'Porch Motion Sensed'

If
   From    Sunset  - 30 minutes
   To      Sunrise + 15 minutes (next day)
   And Control 'Porch Motion Sensor' is switched On
   And (
         Status  'Front Porch Light Switch' is not On
         And Program 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes' is False
       )

Then
   Run Program 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes' (Then Path)

Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

===============

Program Content for 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes'

If
   - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition')

Then
   Set 'Front Porch Light Switch' On
   Wait  10 minutes
   Set 'Front Porch Light Switch' Off
   Run Program 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes' (Else Path)

Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Comment:
Turns the porch light on for 10 minutes. A program is used such that
the 'Wait' isn't reinitialized by new events triggering If conditions.

================

Program Content for 'Porch Light Switched On'

If Control 'Front Porch Light Switch' is switched On

Then
   Stop program 'Porch Motion Sensed'
   Enable Program 'Porch Motion Sensed'
   Run Program 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes' (Else Path)

Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Comment:
This program returns control to the motion sensor and reinitializes
the conditional logic flags.
Run Program (Else Path) to reset the motion on/off flag.

===============

Program Content for 'Porch Light Switched Fast Off'

If Control 'Front Porch Light Switch' is switched Fast Off

Then
   Stop program 'Porch Motion Sensed'
   Disable Program 'Porch Motion Sensed'
   Run Program 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes' (Else Path)

Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Comment:
Double tap (Fast Off) disables the motion sensor such that the
porch light stays off until the switch is manually turned on again.
Purpose of the 'Run Program ... (Else Path)' is to reset the motion
on/off flag.

Bonus Program

I added this new program to turn off porch lights at dawn and reset the motion sensor control in case I manually overrode the motion sensor and forgot to turn OFF the lights. This ensures the motion sensor code is is ready for the next night.

Program Content for 'Porch Light Daily Reset'

If
   Time is Sunrise + 30 minutes

Then
   Set 'Front Porch Light Switch' Off
   Run Program 'Porch Light On 10 Minutes' (Else Path)
   Enable Program 'Porch Motion Sensed'

Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Comment:
Turns off the porch lights 30 minutes after dawn and resets the
program flags in case the lights were manually overridden and left
on all night.

This is how the programs are organized in the ISY-99i Admin Console (click for a full size image):

Porch Light Programs in the ISY-99i Admin Console

For more information on the ISY-99i, the Universal Devices Wiki page is an excellent resource.

Hope this helps,

Bob Jackson

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There are three basic options for home automation software and controllers:

1. A desktop computer software application.
   For example, PowerHome2 or mControl. The user interfaces and features are very nice and powerful. The downside is you have to leave your computer on.
2. A dedicated home automation controller like the ISY-99i by Universal Devices. The advantage is the ISY-99i is a computer, supports remote access via the web, and you can leave your desktop computer off. The disadvantage is it require some programming skill. If you can program in BASIC then you should be successful.
3. SmartLinc – Insteon Central Controller. The SmartLinc enables remote web access to your Insteon devices, supports timers and schedules, and does not require a desktop computer. The limitation is it does not support custom programming.

Universal Devices ISY-99i Home Automation Controller

Reasons for Choosing the ISY-99i Home Automation Controller

Of the three options, the ISY-99i met my criteria because it:

1. Operates without a desktop computer – I didn’t want to leave my PC on all the time.
2. Supports program logic – allowing me to create programs that respond to various event triggers like motion detectors, door open/close sensors, e-mail notifications, etc.
3. Enables Internet access from any web browser to view and control the home automation network. I use my iPhone and laptop to access the ISY-99i web pages.
4. Low cost – about $350.00 with the PowerLinc modem (PLM).
5. Excellent online product support and extensive knowledge base.

ISY-99i Overview

The ISY-99i is a small device that would easily fit into a structured wiring cabinet. The status LEDs are on the front.

ISY-99i Front

The ISY-99i has four ports (left to right):

1. RJ-45 Ethernet port to connect to the home router.
2. DB-9 serial port
3. RJ-45 serial port for connecting to the SmartLinc powerline modem (PLM).
4. Barrel socket for DC power.

Of the four ports, the DB-9 port and DC power socket aren’t normally needed. This ISY-99i is powered via the serial port by the PLM.

ISY-99i - Interface Ports

The ISY-99i has an internal SD memory card for the file system.

SD Memory Card Slot

The ISY-99i is shown here in the center with my other home networking equipment. Left to right: DSL modem, Linksys WRT-54G WiFi router, ISY-99i, NetGear FS-108P switch and NetGear WiFi Phone for Skype base unit.

ISY-99i and Home Network Equipment

Insteon PowerLinc Modem

A PowerLinc Power Line Modem (PLM) is required for the ISY-99i to communicate with Insteon devices over the home power wiring and radio frequency (RF) links. The PLM also powers the ISY-99i via the Ethernet cable.

PowerLinc Modem (PLM)

The PowerLinc PLM plugs into a standard electrical outlet to communicate with the Insteon network. The Set button and status LED is on the side of the unit.

PowerLinc Power Line Modem

The interface port is an RJ-45 connector and uses a standard Cat5 Ethernet cable to connect to the ISY-99i. The communication protocol with the ISY99i is serial, not Ethernet, but this is automatic and transparent to the user.

RJ-45 Port for the Serial Interface to the ISY-99i

The PowerLinc plugs into any electrical outlet. The Ethernet cable plugs into the bottom of the unit and the other end is plugged into the ISY-99i serial port. A pass-through electrical outlet on the front of the unit is provided so you don’t lose an outlet.

PowerLinc Power Line Modem

Next up – working with an Insteon Wireless Motion Sensor and ToggleLinc light switches to automate my front porch lights.

Enjoy,

Bob Jackson

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I’m ready to begin wiring in the ToggleLinc for the porch lights and reconnect the 2nd light switch for the interior light in the double gang box.

Ground Wire Connections

I begin by making the grounding wire connections:

1. The NM 14/2 ground wires from the house wiring are twisted together with a 6 inch pigtail for the 2nd light switch.
2. The ToggleLinc braided ground wire is added to the bundle.

ToggleLinc - Ground Wire Connections

The ground wires are held securely with a wire nut. Notice the ground wire pigtail to the right – this is for the 2nd light switch.

Wire Nut on the Ground Wire Connections

Rewiring the 2nd Light Switch

The 2nd light switch is rewired correctly. What you see here is:

• A pigtail is made from a 6 inch length of black wire and twisted to the black line wire. A wire nut will be added in the following steps.
• The black wire pigtail is back wired to the standard light switch.
• The black load wire (to the lights) is back wired to the light switch.
• The ground wire pigtail is attached to the green ground screw of the light switch.

2nd Light Switch Wired Correctly

ToggleLinc Line Wire

In the next photo, the black “Line” wire from the ToggleLinc is nutted to black line wire from the house. Note that the 2nd light switch is powered by black wire pigtail. This is the correct way to wire the switches.

Line Side (Black) Wire Connections

ToggleLinc Load (Red) and White (Neutral) Wires

The white (neutral) wire from the ToggleLinc is wire nutted to the NM 14/2 wire bundle from the house wiring. The red (load) wire from the ToggleLinc is nutted to the black load wire going to the porch lights. All wiring connections are now complete.

ToggleLinc and Standard Light Switch Wiring Completed

Folding Wires and Installing the Light Switches

The standard light switch for the interior lights doesn’t take up much room inside the electrical box, so it is screwed in first. The wires are gently pressed and folded into the electrical box.

Mounting the Switches

The remaining wires are pressed and folded into the box to make room the ToggleLinc switch.

Wires Folded into the Electrical Box

The ToggleLinc is mounted by two screws like a standard light switch.

ToggleLinc Mounted to the Electrical Box

The switch plate cover is reattached with four screws. The circuit breaker is turned on and the switches are checked for proper operation of the lights. The LED is illuminated when the switch is OFF. Notice how the ToggleLinc switch sits in the center position. It toggles, or clicks like a mouse momentarily when the switch is thrown, returning the center position.

ToggleLinc is now Operational

At this point you can begin “linking” devices by pressing and holding the Set Button. The product page with Quick Start and Owner’s Manual are on the SmartHome product page.

Next Steps

For my home automation project, I will use the ISY-99i home automation controller to integrate an Insteon wireless Motion Sensor to control the outside porch lights with some nifty user friendly features.

Take care,

Bob Jackson

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The Insteon® technology by SmartLabs® uses the existing 120VAC electrical wiring in the home and radio-frequency communication for reliable control of intelligent relays, switches and sensors to control lights, applicances, motors and other things around the house. Insteon is similar in concept to the X10 power-line communication technology and is compatible with X10, but has several reliability advantages.

This How To Guide covers the installation of an Insteon ToggleLinc™ 2466SW light switch relay to control the porch lights. The porch lights will be integrated with an programmable controller and Insteon motion sensor.

Insteon ToggleLinc 2466SW Relay

A Word of Caution!

Working with 120VAC electricity can kill or maim you, burn down the house or deliver an electrical shock that you’ll never forget! If you haven’t studied home electrical wiring, lack a solid knowledge of the electrical building code regulations and don’t know what you are doing, then stop! Hire a professional electrician!

ToggleLinc Relay

I chose a the Insteon ToggleLinc Relay (non-dimming) to control the front porch lights. The ToggleLinc replaces a standard on/off light switch, but operates like a computer mouse in that the toggle switch momentarily clicks on and off, returning the center position by spring action. The ToggleLinc can generate single and double-click events that can be used for advanced features that I’ll explain in future postings.

Referring the above photo, what you receive in the product box is a ToggleLinc switch, Quick Start Guide and wire-nuts. The installation instructions in the Quick Start Guide are very well written.

The ToggleLinc is study and well made. The face and sides of the ToggleLinc are metal, the back is clear plastic – you can see the electronics inside as shown here. The white (neutral) and black (hot) wires are connected to the house wiring like a traditional light switch. The red wire (load) is connected to the porch lights black (hot) wire such that the ToggleLinc can control the lights.

ToggleLinc Relay Switch - rear view

Replacing a Standard Light Switch with a ToggleLinc

First – shut off the power for the circuit by turning off the circuit breaker at the main electrical panel. A simple way to find the right circuit breaker is to turn on the porch light and have an assistant watch the light as you turn off the circuit breakers.

The switch for the porch lights (right side) is adjacent to an interior light switch in the same wall box.

Standard Light Switches

Removing the four switch plate cover screws reveals the two light switches in a double gang electrical box.

Switch Plate Removed

You cannot tell if a wire is hot by looking at it, so I always double check the circuit is dead (i.e. no power) with a voltage detector. The Greenlee GT-11 voltage detector is a nice tool – it beeps and flashes red when voltage is present. The GT-11 costs about $15 at Lowes.

Verifying the Circuit is Dead with a Voltage Detector

Remove the two screws for the light switch and pull it gently out of the electrical box. What the hey!? There’s an obvious problem here, the numbnut “contractor grade” electrician who installed the light switch wired it improperly. He should have used a wire nut and pigtail, but instead ran the hot wire to the 2nd light switch (red dots) from the terminal of 1st switch.

Removing the Porch Light Switch

OK – to correct the wiring I pull the 2nd light switch and see more shoddy, if not hazardous work! Look at the bare copper wire exposed on the back wiring noted by the red arrows! This is begging for an electrical short.

Improper Wiring Job on many points!

To release a back wired connection, insert a small screwdriver into the slot and pull the wire out. Wow! The wire lead is about twice as long as it should be! (See photo below). Whoever wired this switch should be fired! I’ve worked on several switches in the house and haven’t seen a job done this poorly.

Release the Back Wires - Much too long!

Next, the line side wire to the porch light switch is released. Oh my goodness! The guy who did this really sucked! He stripped the line wire insulation in mid-span and looped it under the screw terminal (see red box). Worse, the screw was loose!

What a bad wiring job!

Having removed both light switches, I rewire things correctly by trimming the wires to length. The first cut is at the mid-span of the line side wire.

Trimming the Line Side Wire

The remaining wires are trimmed to length, or about 6 inches in length.

Wires Trimmed to Proper Length

The correct way to wire a light switch is to use the strip gauge on the back of switch. Here the wire is stripped and cut to the length shown on the strip gauge.

Checking the Strip Gauge

After stripping insulation from the black wires, I had my assistant turn on the circuit breaker briefly to verify the line side (main power supply) wire because I didn’t trust anything the original electrician had done here. The voltage detector confirmed this center wire is the line side and the other two black wires were dead – these being the load side wires to the lights. The circuit breaker was turned off and I confirmed the line wire was dead.

Verifying the Line Side Wire

This guide is continued in Part 2.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

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