How to make a deck stair stringer hanger board and install Simpson Strong Tie LSCZ Adjustable Stringer Connectors to support the stairs.
Table of Contents
- Planning and Building Wood Deck Stairs with Landing
- Tear Down Old Wood Deck Stairs and Landing
- Remove Wood Deck Stair Landing Support Posts and Concrete Footers
- Build Deck Stair Landing: Pour Concrete Footers and Install 6×6 Posts
- Deck Stair Landing: Saw Post-to-Beam Support Notches
- Deck Stair Landing Beam and Joist Framing
- Deck Stair Stringer Hanger Board and Simpson Strong-Tie LSCZ Stringer Connectors (you are here)
- Install Wood Deck Stair Stringers and 4×4 Newel Posts
- How to Frame a Wood Deck Stair Landing
- Build Wood Deck Stairs – Layout Solid and Sawn Stringers
- How to Install Deck Stair Stringers and Treads
- Build Wood Deck Stairs and Landing – Completed Job Photos
The deck stair landing basic framing is complete and I’m ready to install the stair stringers. Referring the deck stair diagram below, I’ll build the lower stairs first:
Deck Stair Stringer Hanger Board and Simpson Strong-Tie LSCZ Stringer Connectors
Recall that I’ve tore down the old deck stairs and building a new set. I have several constraints that limit what I can do because of the way the original deck stairs were built:
- The lower stairs must align with the basement patio concrete step.
- The new stair landing is sandwiched between the main deck posts at the front and rear and therefore has to have the same footprint as the original.
Job site conditions are often different from what you see on TV!
Stair Stringer Hanger Board
A hanger board is required to attach the stair stringer because the top step will be below the level of the landing. The hanger board is made with a 2×8 bolted to two 4×4 blocks:
4×4 blockins and 1/2 inch galvanized bolts connect the hanger board to the 2×8 landing joist. The dark stains are Copper-Green Brown wood preservative that’s been swabbed in the drill holes:
The hanger board will only support the right stair stringer due to the alignment with the concrete step, and the 2×10 beam will support the left stringer. Normally both stringers would be fastened to the hanger board.
I’ve temporarily set up a 2×4 to verify the 2×16 stringer dimensions because the concrete step is not level. The lower stair stringers will be made with two 2×16 inch by 10 ft long boards which are expensive if I were to saw incorrectly!
The 2×4 helped me verify the position and dimensions of each stringer to ensure it matched the uneven concrete step.
Simpson Strong-Tie LSCZ Connector Installation
After laying out the steps with a square and stair gauges, the solid stair stringers are cut to match landing and concrete step. I set the stringer in place, checked it was square with the landing and plumb, then marked the bottom of the stringer against the landing. The mark is where the bend in the LSCZ connector will be located.
The LSCZ stringer connector is normally fastened with Simpson Strong-Tie SD #9 x 1-1/2 inch long screws if mounted to a 2x rim board that is 1-1/2 inch thick. Because the stringer must align with the concrete step, I had to fasten it to the 2×10 beam end-grain where the wood isn’t as strong. I therefore used longer SD #9 x 2-1/2 inch screws here:
Take care to install the LSCZ such that the two side tabs are positioned inside the stringer as shown in the above photo.
If I’d realized the stringer mounting issue during the planning phase, I would have built the post footers further apart so both stringers could be attached to a full width hanger board. The hanger board alignment would have been evident if I’d created a detailed deck stair Plan View in addition to the Elevation View.
The ends of the 2×10 beam were treated with Copper-Green Brown preservative before installing the stringer connector:
Stair Stringer Bottom Flashing Tape
The bottom of the stair stringer is wrapped with Grace Vycor Plus flashing tape so it doesn’t soak up moisture from the concrete step. The tape is very sticky but won’t adhere well unless the wood is dry. I bought the 2×16 pressure treated boards a month in advance to let them dry. On a cold day you may need to warm the tape with an electric heat gun and press it with a putty knife:
Notice the pencil lines tracing out the stair treads and risers in the above photo. This is required to know how to saw the ends of the solid stringer and determine where to mount the Simpson Strong-Tie staircase angles. More on this later.
I bought a 4 inch wide by 75 yard roll of flashing tape. It’s easy to cut narrow strips to fit with a utility knife. Lay the tape on a long board, use an aluminum yard stick as a guide and run the knife along the strip:
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