How to Repair a Shorted Electrical Outlet: Insulate the wire with 600 volt rated heat shrink tubing and wiring the new outlet. This repair is continued from How to Repair a Shorted Electrical Outlet – Part 1.
Heat Shrink Tubing Wire Insulation Repair
Before proceeding make certain the electricity is shut off the circuit breaker panel to prevent electrical shock, injury and/or death. If in doubt, hire a licensed electrician.
As described in Part 1 of this project, the insulation on the NM-B 14/2 copper wires will be repaired with Raychem heat-shrink tubing rated for 600 volts and 275°F (135°C), Part #CPGI-RNF-100-ASRT-4N-BLK.
The NM-B 14/2 copper conductor wire insulation will be repaired with two pieces of heat-shrink tubing: 1) 3/32″ section against the wire and 2) 1/8″ section over the 3/32″ piece for a double layer of protection.
The larger piece of 1/8″ diameter tubing about 1-1/2″ in length is slipped over the 14 gauge wire first well away from the end so it’s not prematurely heated and shrunk. The smaller 3/32″ diameter tubing is next positioned over the wire according to the strip gauge on the back of the Leviton Heavy Duty Outlet Model 5252 to expose the correct amount of wire lead. The new outlet will be back wired using the screw-and-clamp method.
I used a butane lighter to carefully shrink the 3/32″ tubing over the wire. Specialized heat-shrink butane torches or an electric heat gun may also be used, however a large heat gun is difficult to control due to the wide cone of hot air. The advantage of a butane torch lighter is the torch jet works in all positions, including upside down for even heating of the heat shrink tubing. Do not use an ordinary Bic butane lighter because it does a poor job of projecting the flame downward.
Work carefully while keeping the end of flame at about 1 inch away while applying heat to all sides of the tubing with a back-and-forth motion to avoid overheating which will cause the tubing to become brittle and crack. I held my other hand about 2 inches behind the wire to judge the amount of heat applied by the torch lighter. The Raychem tubing shrinks at 203°F. Practice heat shrinking first on a scrap piece of wire.
After the 3/32″ inner layer of tubing has been heat shrunk, slide the 1/8″ inch section of tubing into place and heat-shrink it with the butane torch lighter. Notice how the heat-shrink tubing squeezes tightly around the wire:
I coded the repaired white (neutral) wire with a piece of white electrical tape for anyone working on this outlet in the future to indicate it is still the neutral side of the circuit. Otherwise someone might think the black heat shrink tubing on the white neutral wire means it’s been re-purposed as a hot wire. The black (hot) wire insulation has also been repaired with heat-shrink tubing:
Back Wiring the New Wall Outlet
The new Leviton heavy-duty outlet model 5252 is back-wired using the screw-and-clamp system. Each pair of NM-B 14/2 wires for the same circuit are installed in matching positions. I installed the line-side wires from the circuit breaker panel in the middle position of the outlet for a minor degree of electrical balancing for the two feeder circuits on either side; this is just a personal preference.
After checking the wires are securely back-wired to the outlet and the clamp screws are tight, the wires are carefully folded into the outlet box to avoid kinks. The new Leviton model 5252 outlet is fastened to the wall box by the two mounting screws, then power is turned On at the circuit breaker.
The outlet wiring is checked for correctness with a receptacle tester. The two orange lights indicates the outlet is wired correctly:
The cover plate is attached and the receptacle is checked again:
Arc Fault Circuit Breaker Upgrade
My home was built shortly before the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70) required Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) for circuits serving bedrooms and other locations. An AFCI breaker would have tripped when the loose outlet wires in my son’s room caused the arc short.
I purchased several Eaton 15 Amp Single Pole Combination Type FIRE-GUARD AFCI BR Type Breakers that matched my electrical panel (your panel will likely require a different breaker model) for about $38 each and replaced the standard breakers to reduce the future risk of arc shorts. Most homeowners will want to hire a licensed electrician for this advanced task which requires shutting off the power the entire home at the service entrance.
Hope this helps,
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