How to Replace a Sewage Pump Check Valve – install a new sewage pump discharge stand pipe and place the pump back in the sewage basin.
This project is continued from Part 3.
At this point in the project, the old sewage check valve has been removed and the sewage pump pulled out of the basin. The old ~4 foot tall sewage pump discharge pipe will now be removed and new discharge pipe fitted to the pump.
The metal band clamp is loosened and the zip tie securing the pump wires to the discharge pipe is cut off. As noted in the above photo, the PVC threaded adapter screws into the 2 inch sewage pump discharge outlet. I used a large pair of channellocks to loosen the threaded pipe adapter and unscrew the discharge pipe from the pump.
The new 2 inch PVC male thread adapter and a new ~4 foot section of PVC discharge pipe is cut to length and the end deburred. The threaded adapter and pipe will be primed and glued together in this next photo:
The new section of sewage pump discharge pipe is ready to be screwed into the Liberty Pump model LE71A. The Liberty pump comes with an air bleed hole to prevent air lock, so it’s not necessary to drill a small hole in the PVC discharge pipe.
Install the Sewage Ejection Pump
Install the sewage pump by:
- Screw the new PVC discharge pipe into the pump discharge outlet.
Hand-tight is sufficient.
- Slip the metal band clamp over the discharge pipe and secure the pump wiring harness.
- Readjust the height of the black float for the high water alarm.
- Set the pump into the sewage basin.
I found it simpler to remove the rubber gaskets from the sewage basin cover plate to set the pump.
Take care to route the various cables to avoid tangles. I added a heavy plastic zip tie to discharge pipe to better organize things.
Install the rubber gaskets for the wiring harness and discharge pipe in the basin cover. Do not bolt the cover to the basin because the pump will be scooted a little to align the PVC pipes when the new silent check valve is installed.
This project is continued in Part 5.