This project explains how to wire a closet light with Wiremold metal raceway by extending power from an existing electrical outlet in this installment of How To Build a Basement Closet. The wiring rough-in is shown in this tutorial.
This project is continued from Part 1.
Wiremold Wiring Rough-In
After fitting the Wiremold® receptacle boxes, inside elbows and metal raceways, the elbow on the far right is unscrewed from the wall and the NM-B 14/2 electric cable is pushed through each section of raceway. Wiremold is designed to be installed one raceway (channel) at a time in sequence because each component fits together with a tongue and slot system that fits 3/8 inch into each end of the raceway.
Note: Before installing the Wiremold raceway, decide if you want to use the hidden raceway mounting clips or the exposed straps. If using the hidden mounting clips for a cleaner look, install those now. Given that this installation is inside a closet, I chose to use the straps which are installed over the raceway. The raceway clips and straps are purchased separately in Wiremold Metal Raceway Accessory Pack, part # BWH9-10-11.
Closeup of the NM-B 14/2 cable bend inside the Wiremold 90 degree inside elbow. Make the cable bend radius as wide as possible without kinks or pinches.
After running the NM-B 14/2 cable and mounting the raceways, the Wiremold mounting strap is installed with two screws set in drywall anchors and the metal bushing inserted into the ends of the raceway. The bushings are included in the Wiremold accessory pack.
Close-up of the Wiremold outlet box and raceway with the metal bushing. Pull at least 8 inches of cable past the raceways to each outlet box. You can always cut it shorter when making the wiring connections. Remember the cable never gets any longer!
I drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the drywall in the Wiremold back plate, which is centered between the 2×4 wall studs. (BTW, that’s a temporary piece of drywall set in place just to rough-in the wiring.) The next strand of NM-B 14/2 cable from the outlet box to the light switch will enter the wall here. Instead of an “outlet box”, it’s purpose is to make a Wiremold “junction box” for the wiring connections.
View of the Wiremold wiring rough-in from outlet box (left) to the junction box (right) next to the closet door:
Basement Closet Wiring Rough-In
A new span of NM-B 14/2 cable is run from the Wiremold junction box inside the closet to the light switch box. Then another span of electrical cable is run up the 2×4 stud wall to the closet ceiling joists. The NM-B cables are secured by cable staples within 12 inches of the steel switch box.
NM-B 14/2 electric cable run from the switch box to the closet ceiling joists.
The NM-B 14/2 cable is run through the bored holes in the 2×4 ceiling joists to the closet light ceiling box:
The steel octagon box has NM cable Screw Clamps (NMSC) to secure the electrical cable to the box. The NM-B cable is stapled within 12 inches of the ceiling box.
View of the closet ceiling light wiring rough-in from the other side:
Closet light wiring rough-in comprehensive view. Notice the Wiremold raceway along the lower wall.
Basement closet light wiring rough-in with Wiremold to extend power from the existing wall outlet to the light switch and ceiling light using NM-B 14/2 electric cable:
The drywall is installed next so I can mount the ceiling light.
If you want to skip ahead in this series and read about completing the Wiremold electrical wiring, click here.
Thanks for reading,
Bob Jackson
