How to Remove a Leaky Shower Valve Cartridge

By |Last updated on |Bathroom, Shower|55 Comments

The old and leaky Delta Monitor Series 1300/1400 shower valve cartridge is removed in preparation for installing the new cartridge. Remember the water has been shutoff to the entire house.

This project is continued from How to Replace a Leaky Shower Valve Cartridge.

How to Remove a Leaky Shower Valve Cartridge

Remove the Shower Valve Sleeve

The trim sleeve is removed by simply pulling it off the shower valve body to expose the cartridge, bonnet nut and sleeve o-ring. The o-ring centers the sleeve over the shower valve body and holds it in place:

Remove the Shower Valve Sleeve

Remove the Shower Valve Sleeve

Remove the Shower Valve Bonnet Nut

The bonnet nut holds the shower cartridge in the shower valve body. The bonnet can be difficult to remove after years of calcium mineral deposits clog the threads. If the bonnet nut is frozen then wrap a rag soaked with white vinegar around the bonnet nut and wait a few hours. Vinegar is mildly acidic and will dissolve the calcium.

I used channel lock pliers to remove the bonnet nut:

  • One plier on the shower valve body (left side in photo) is held steady for stress relief.
    This prevents the torque (twisting force) from reaching the shower valve mount and copper pipes.
  • The other plier on the bonnet nut to remove it.
Remove the Shower Valve Bonnet Nut with Channel Locks

Remove the Shower Valve Bonnet Nut with Channel Locks

You can also use a pipe strap wrench to remove the bonnet nut but I would be concerned about torquing hard on a frozen nut and stressing the shower valve mount.

This channel locks worked really well and I got the nut off without any problems. Once the nut breaks free it was easy to spin it off by hand. Lot’s of calcium and green copper oxide deposits on the threads after 12 years of use:

Shower Valve Bonnet Nut Removal

Shower Valve Bonnet Nut Removal

Remove the Shower Valve Cartridge

I thought that removing the bonnet nut would be the biggest challenge. Getting out the old shower cartridge was a bit trickier because it was firmly stuck in the shower valve body. I pulled and wiggled on the shower cartridge but it wouldn’t budge, apparently the O-rings were stuck.

My solution was to press the blade of my pocket knife (don’t twist the knife blade or you’ll break it!) between the flange of the white cartridge cap and the brass shower valve body to open a gap large enough to work in the tip of a flat tip screwdriver. Then I worked my way around cartridge cap twisting the tip of the screw driver to pry out the cartridge:

Remove a Stuck Shower Valve Cartridge

Remove a Stuck Shower Valve Cartridge

This broke the seal on the O-rings so I could wiggle the cartridge out by hand:

DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Removal

DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Removal

Here’s the old Delta cartridge after removing it from the shower valve body:

Leaking DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Replacement

Leaking DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Replacement

If you’ve ever wondered what’s inside a shower valve body this closeup illustrates how it works:

  • By convention hot water is on the left and cold water is on the right.
  • Water flows into the shower cartridge through the two valve inlets.
  • The cartridge controls the flow and amount of hot and cold water, while mixing the two for temperature control.
  • The water flows around the exterior of the cartridge body into the shower valve body outlet to the tub faucet or shower head. My valve is for a shower only and therefore doesn’t have an outlet for a bathtub.
Shower Valve Body - Hot and Cold Water Inlets

Shower Valve Body – Hot and Cold Water Inlets

Delta Shower Cartridge Part # RP19804 and RP46074

I bought both the RP46074 cartridge for the Delta Multichoice 13/14 Series and the RP19804 for the Delta Monitor 1300/1400 Series shower so I’d have the correct part. The RP19804 with the blue lower housing is a direct replacement for my old cartridge:

DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Replacement Parts RP19804 and RP46074

DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Replacement Parts RP19804 and RP46074

The new Delta shower cartridge RP19804 includes one page installation instructions. I’ve removed the grey retaining disc and pulled out the Rotational Limit Stop (RLS) for hot/cold temperature adjustment to better illustrate these parts. I explain the temperature adjustment in How to Adjust a Shower Valve Water Temperature.

DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge RP19804

DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge RP19804

Note the lower housing snaps into the cartridge cap with a 1/4 twist and you should be mindful of this when installing the new cartridge in the shower valve body because it’s tempting to twist the new cartridge in to seat O-rings:

Old and New DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Part RP19804

Old and New DELTA Shower Valve Cartridge Part RP19804

This project is continued in How to Install a Shower Valve Cartridge.

Thanks for reading,

Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2018   Reproduction strictly prohibited.


  1. Patrick June 14, 2014 at 9:22 pm - Reply

    Thanks Bob for your very detailed instructions – it gave me confidence to tackle this job myself, and helped me complete it successfully.

    • Bob Jackson June 14, 2014 at 9:51 pm - Reply

      Hi Patrick,
      That’s good news! Thanks for letting me know.

  2. Mark Butler July 29, 2014 at 7:47 pm - Reply

    I am looking for the older delta shower faucet with the shut offs built in. I know about the 2 screws to shut off the water but I ran across a delta faucet with what looks like a shut off valve on each side of the faucet. These have a threaded hole in the center which you to screw the finish ring to. Now, are these an actual shut off valve without the handle on it? Then , do you need a special tool to beable to reach in with to shut off the hot and cold water. Like I said these look like a outdoor water spicket without the handle on it. Please help!!

  3. PlumbedOut! October 5, 2014 at 1:32 pm - Reply

    Thanks for your detailed instructions! We had the same problems, the cartridge was stuck fast and then the replacement didn’t just slide in. We were about ready to hammer it in! So glad we found your page.

    We now have a new problem. Do you have any advice?

    Where we are at now is that the valve cartridge is replaced. The spout pipe is the problem. The L shaped pipe that juts out of the wall for the spout to screw onto has come off. It’s an L shape with about four inches of pipe each way. It isn’t threaded. We have slotted it back on at the top of the L and we can run water through the spout. But, as soon as we use the diverter to switch to shower then the water pressure blows it back off. How do we fix it back on permanently?

    We have a Delta shower with single handle and spout. We have attempted to replace the valve cartridge and the spout. It’s been a nightmare.

    On a side note we have discovered that the shut of valves for that shower/tub don’t work. They handle and stems just spin. That’s something we would really like to replace but the more pressing problem is not being able to use the shower.

    • Bob Jackson October 5, 2014 at 3:28 pm - Reply

      > The spout pipe is the problem. The L shaped pipe that juts out of the wall for the
      > spout to screw onto has come off. It’s an L shape with about four inches of
      > pipe each way. It isn’t threaded. (emphasis added)
      The solder joint has come loose. Unfortunately, you’ll have dry, clean and resolder the pipe joint. It may require opening up the drywall. Probably time to call a plumber.

  4. PlumbedOut! October 5, 2014 at 1:42 pm - Reply

    I did notice that it wasn’t braced to anything and has fittings to brace it. Could we slot it back on and fix a piece of wood behind to brace it too? It has the fittings to brace it.

    • Bob Jackson October 5, 2014 at 3:36 pm - Reply

      Possibly, it depends on the type of shower valve. My master bathroom shower valve isn’t mounted to a block and supported only by the copper pipes.

      For example, see this project where the shower head drop ear elbow is mounted to a bracing block but the shower valve does not require mounting to a wood block.


  5. David Keller January 11, 2015 at 1:27 pm - Reply

    I have a 15 year old Delta 1400 series Monitor faucet that started leaking. I received a free replacement cartridge from Delta since I was the original owner. Delta sent model # RP19804. The old cartridge was difficult to remove. But after pulling on it and for a few minutes it finally came out. Putting in the new one was also a little difficult. It was a tight fit, but after a few minutes it finally went in. The tabs on the cartridge were fully inserted into the notches on the brass body. I turned the water back on and ran the show for a minutes to flush the line. When I turned off the shower it still dripped. Is it possible the new cartridge is defective or is something wrong with the valve itself.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Bob Jackson January 12, 2015 at 12:33 pm - Reply

      Check the following items:
      * Are the upper and lower parts of the shower valve body aligned and fully together?

      “Note the lower housing snaps into the cartridge cap with a 1/4 twist and you should be mindful of this when installing the new cartridge in the shower valve body because it’s tempting to twist the new cartridge in to seat O-rings”

      * Are mineral deposits, scale or rust in the shower valve body interfering with the O-rings of the shower cartridge? If so, try polishing the inside of the shower valve body with a brass wire brush on a Dremel rotary tool.

      Maybe an O-ring on the valve cartridge leg rolled off given the difficulty of inserting the new cartridge? Polishing the valve body with the Dremel tool should solve that.


      • David Keller January 14, 2015 at 12:51 pm - Reply


        Thanks for your reply. I am waiting for another replacement cartridge before I attempt to pull out the cartridge I installed. I am woried that the installaged cartrige may break apart when trying to remove, since such a tight fit, so I don’t want to be in an emergency situation.

        • David Keller January 18, 2015 at 4:15 pm - Reply


          I received the replacement cartridge. I used DANCO waterproof grease on the O-rings prior to inserting the cartridge. I used some cleaners to remove the scale build-up, but did not try to polish the inside of the shower body valve. The new cartridge inserted in relatively easy. The shower still is dripping.

          • Bob Jackson January 19, 2015 at 11:20 am - Reply

            Hmm, sounds like you did everything right. Before removing the shower cartridge again, check the following:

            Step 1:
            After the shower has been Off for 10 mins and dripping, hold the shower handle against the full Off position, wait a 2 or 3 mins and see if it stops dripping. If it stop dripping that means the lower cartridge seats and springs aren’t quite aligned with the mixing plate.

            Step 2:
            If it still drips after Step 1, turn the handle On very slightly. This is also checking alignment with seats and mixing valve. I think it unusual there would be a misalignment problem in Steps 1 and 2 but it’s easy to check.

            Step 3 – remove the cartridge:
            Remove the shower cartridge and polish the hot and cold water inlets with a brass brush on a Dremel tool. Use only brass because steel will scratch the shower valve body. Note that the O-rings on legs of the lower cartridge will rest deeply in the hot and cold water inlets and it’s important to polish this area. Try installing only the bottom part of cartridge in the shower valve body first, remove it and look at the grease line made by the O-rings in the hot & cold water inlets with a flashlight. Are the grease rings even without gaps, dry spots and pits that may highlight a hard to see corrosion or scaling problem?

            Let me know what happens.


            • David Keller January 19, 2015 at 2:19 pm - Reply


              Thanks for your help. Can you clarify what you meant in step 1. How much pressure should I put on the handle when in the off position. I don’t want to cause a different type of problem.

              I plan on buying a brass wire brush for my dremel tool. I will let you know if that works.



              • Bob Jackson January 19, 2015 at 6:32 pm - Reply

                Not too much pressure, say that which can be applied with your index and middle fingers together and straight without bending. It’s just to check going to the full Off position isn’t causing the leak.

                BTW – does your shower valve body have the V-notch on one side only like mine?

                • david keller January 19, 2015 at 10:21 pm


                  The shower valve body has v-notches on both sides for the tabs on the cartridge. The drip did not stop when I put pressure on the handle. I plan to clean the valve body inside with the dremel brass wire brush.

                • David Keller January 22, 2015 at 8:51 am


                  I had partial success with the brass wire brush. It worked good in removing the calcium build-up. On the cold water side, I noticed pitting in the wall where the o-ring makes contact. I re-installed everything after flushing out the valves to remove any brass strands. The shower didn’t leak. I turned the shower on and off a couple of time to test and no dripping. But a couple of hours later the shower was used and the dripping returned. I tried usind the brass brush again just in case, but he shower still drips. Before I call a plumber, would a thicker o-ring maybe seal the gap over the pitting.

                  Thanks for your help.

                • Bob Jackson January 22, 2015 at 12:28 pm

                  You could try a thicker O-ring, but it may roll up when inserting the valve if it’s too thick.

            • Rajan Anand January 3, 2016 at 9:27 pm - Reply

              Hi Bob,

              Happy New Year

              The delta cat ridge I replaced about 5 months ago has started to leak. It stops when I push down on the handle. I see you post that the seats and spring are misaligned to the mixing plate. I re seated the cartridge in the notches and tightened the bonnet nut a quarter turn more. It has not stopped completely but I can open the valve after using it and if I shut it off quickly it turns the water off completely.

              Where is the musing plate? Is it within the cartridge ? Do I need to open the cartridge up? Thanks

              • Bob Jackson January 4, 2016 at 8:40 pm - Reply

                > “It stops [leaking] when I push down on the handle.”

                My guess is when you push down on the handle it’s making a proper seal between the rubber seats and the inlet/mixing plate.

                The shower handle attaches to the metal stem which carries the plastic stem body and the mixing plate. I’m holding a new shower cartridge and notice the mixing plate wiggles slightly as I press on the stem, as if you were pushing down on the handle. Normally the seat springs would press the seals against the mixing plate to prevent a leak but it seems your springs may be weakening or possibly the rubber seats have a rough spot?

                My advice is to replace the cartridge.

                • Rajan January 8, 2016 at 12:57 pm

                  I repolished the valve body and then washed it with about 30 ounces of water and wiped the body down with a cotton cloth till no residue was seen on the cloth. Lightly greased o rings and seated the cartridge. Did not flush the valve without any cartridge since that would cause a mess as I do not have help to cover the valve. Set the cartridge at 50% mix hot and cold and flushed the system once assembled for 4 minutes.

                  The new cartridge is much smoother in movement. Let see how long this lasts.

    • Byron Horter January 10, 2017 at 8:30 pm - Reply


      I can not get the old lower half of the cartridge out. any solutions? It will not budge

  6. donna March 28, 2015 at 5:47 pm - Reply

    I bought this house over ten years ago. It was new. The builder put in the Delta classic moniter 1300 series from what I can see. I have had a water mark on my ceiling for about a year. Had a guy come out and he thought it might just be the tub leaking around the drain. He caulked it. The mark on the ceiling wasn’t getting bigger but darker. Now my spout in the tub is dripping. Not the shower head just the spout. I want to buy a whole new tub/shower kit and have it installed. I’m thinking that is what has been leaking all this time. Can I buy any other kit and it will fit in to the wall the same way or do I have to buy the same kit or another Delta brand? Do you think that drip on the ceiling could be from this or does it sound like something else? Would it just be easier to fix the leak from the spout. From what I read the leak is not actually in the spout but in the handle that turns the water off and on. Is that true? I have no clue what I’m doing.

    • Bob Jackson March 29, 2015 at 12:16 pm - Reply

      > Had a guy come out… he caulked it.
      Was he a licensed plumber? He should have traced the leak source, discussed repair or replace options and provided an estimate of the repair work and cost.

      Tub and shower faucet kits are made to fit standard dimensions for the water valves, spout and drain. You can buy any brand that fits your tub.

      It appears the DIY option isn’t suitable for your situation. I recommend contacting three licensed plumbers, ask them to assess the problem and compare quotes. This could range from repairing the leaking hot water valve (if that’s the leak source) to replacing the tub/shower valve kit.

  7. Don April 7, 2015 at 6:08 pm - Reply

    Hi I am renting a condo, in one shower, when the handle is turned on the water gets hot first. Is it possible that the cartridge has been installed backwards? Can it be switched around?

    • Bob Jackson April 7, 2015 at 8:48 pm - Reply

      If the shower valve cartridge were “flipped over” 180 degrees reversing the “hot side” position it would cause the hot water to flow first. The cartridge alignment notch is supposed to prevent an reversed installation.

      You’ll have to turn off the water to entire condo and remove the cartridge to verify the problem. I recommend replacing the cartridge if you pull out the old one because the part is not expensive and you won’t have to worry about possible leaks due to old O-rings.

  8. Jeff April 11, 2015 at 12:32 pm - Reply

    I have the same problem removing the cartridge from the brass shower valve body. First tried removing it by attaching vise grip pliers to the brass stem protruding from the cartridge and wiggling it. No luck. Then used your suggestion with the screwdriver trying to pry the cartridge out. The cartridge moved less than 1/8 inch even with pulling on the stem with the pliers and twisting with the screw driver. It just seems that something is holding it in. I can’t see any screws or clips anywhere. I’m afraid to pry too hard with the screwdriver and crack the brass shower valve body. What do you suggest?

    • Bob Jackson April 12, 2015 at 10:22 am - Reply

      The O-rings are probably fossilized with calcium and minerals causing it stick in the shower valve. Try this to remove the stuck shower cartridge:
      * Pry the cartridge out with a flat head screw driver(s) as far as you can, or clamp the channel locks around the cartridge body and wiggle/pull. Be patient and work slowly. Ideally you’ll get it out far enough to expose the large O-ring.
      * Wear gloves and place a rag soaked with CLR Calcium, Lime & Rust Remover or household vinegar on the cartridge. Let it soak for an hour. You can find CLR at Home Depot and other stores. The CLR (or vinegar) will dissolve the mineral deposits. In my experience CLR does an amazing job.
      * Pry and wiggle the cartridge again. Hopefully you’re making progress. Once the main O-ring is out of the shower valve body, treat it with more CLR (or vinegar) to dissolve the mineral deposits at the cartridge legs & small O-rings. Let it soak overnight if necessary.

      Resist the temptation to squirt WD-40 or other oil-based lubricants on the shower cartridge because oil can attack and swell the O-rings making it stick worse.


  9. Danny Chisholm April 23, 2015 at 10:39 am - Reply

    Having same issue as most folks getting the old cartridge out. After pulling on the stem the top half of cartridge popped out but the lower half is still in the valve. What approach can I use to get the other half out. Thanks.

    • Bob Jackson April 23, 2015 at 2:56 pm - Reply

      If the cartridge top half isn’t broken, lock it back into the lower cartridge then wiggle and pull the entire cartridge out. If the top half is broken, use a pair of pliers to grasp the neck of the lower cartridge to wiggle & pull.

      You may need to soak the lower cartridge with Calcium Lime Rust (CLR) to dissolve the mineral deposits.

      • Gary King February 20, 2017 at 10:52 pm - Reply

        I had the same problem. By chance, when I was twisting and wiggling, I must have gotten close to the 1/4 turn and partially broke small pieces of the inner part– I was surprised that they were blue, like the replacement cartridge I had on hand, not gray like the photo. I was prepared to go buy a new valve for about $120, but I took the white part and the rubber seats and springs with me to the store. I found a little package of seats and springs that matched for about $3.79 and decided to just replace those. I put the old parts back together with the magic 1/4 twist! The leak has stopped, at least for now.
        I had not read beyond the original directions so I had sprayed some Liquid Wrench into the valve body in hopes of loosening the inner parts. I didn’t have a couple hours to keep soaking and wiggling.
        Bottom line: I’m amazed that the Delta official video does not mention most of the detail discussed here, I’m glad you pointed out the two parts twisting, otherwise I’d have wasted money and time.

  10. Joseph Scotti May 3, 2015 at 10:59 am - Reply

    Hi Bob,
    Nice of you to offer advice to the daring who tackle plumbing fearlessly. I am a retired home builder (translation: I quit before I went broke) and can fix anything except a separated wing while in flight. Love to fix my own stuff and stand outside my cave and roar with satisfaction. I
    I did not notice in your comments a note on preventing struck parts in future repairs.

    To wit: I always use a small amount of lubricant on threads and fittings when replacing valve assembles or any other beasty that will need my attention in the future. I am on your site to review a Delta valve that I added 30 years ago to my cave. It disassembled without effort so I will finish my note here and then step out front to roar my self satisfaction. My best to you and your following of DIY’s. Scotti in Atlanta

  11. JMP June 1, 2015 at 6:17 pm - Reply

    Thanks Bob for the detailed instruction. This has really helped I have the exact same model. I only deviated when I purchased a Danco Delta replacement. Big mistake, it was almost identical and specified for this model but did not fit. I purchased the Delta with blue bottom you show and was a 5 min job.

  12. Darlene July 23, 2015 at 10:41 am - Reply

    I was having a shower head leaking problem and have the Delta 1400 series. I removed the shower valve cartridge but there is a slow steady stream of water coming through the shower valve body outlet. I have already turned off the main water and the water heater. I wiped inside the area and absorbed the water with a paper towel that was in there and 5 seconds later more water keeps coming out.

    Is it normal to have a stream of water coming out of there? I noticed on one of the comments there was mentioning of a “plate open to turn off the water”. Is there another place that I missed? Where is this area?

    I left over night the shower valve body outlet open and this morning there is still a slow steady flow of water coming through it. Help!

    • Bob Jackson July 23, 2015 at 10:23 pm - Reply

      Although you’ve shutoff the main water valve and water heater, water may continue to trickle out of the open shower valve body because:
      * Water is draining from the overhead supply pipes, especially if you have a 2nd story. This usually stops after several minutes when it slows to a drip.
      * The main water shutoff valve inside the home doesn’t completely close. I know that my main shutoff valve in the basement leaks as you described despite closing the valve very tightly.

      Because my basement shutoff valve leaks, I have to shutoff the water supply at the city water meter in the front yard. A slow drip or trickle isn’t a problem when replacing the shower valve but I have to close the water meter valve if I’m soldering copper pipes because any amount of water will create a cold spot and the solder won’t flow.

  13. Rajan July 25, 2015 at 10:04 pm - Reply

    Thanks Bob for the great pictures and explanation. I have the same or similar problem as the post by David Keller. 10 year old 14404 Lewiston leaked. Got the RP19804. Brass bonnet nut stuck. Citric acid and heat allowed me to remove it. Then the cartridge was stuck and broke in half. Applied some more acid and then removed. Now it still it leaks so it would seem the valve body has the calcium deposit or the o-ring has a break or damage. I don’t understand the term when you say the bonnet nut bottoms out. Is that the o-ring on the valve being pushed in?

    • Bob Jackson July 26, 2015 at 11:48 am - Reply

      What I mean by the “bonnet nut bottoms out” is the bonnet nut can be tightened only so much otherwise it will crush the shower cartridge flange that seats against the shower valve body. My index finger is on the cartridge flange in this photo. The alignment notch is molded into the flange.

      The cartridge lower housing with the two legs and o-rings shouldn’t be touching the back of the shower valve body hot & cold water inlets (labeled “H” and “C”) if it’s the correct OEM replacement part… otherwise it would crush the housing or at a minimum stress and deform the plastic cartridge causing a leak.

      > Now it still it leaks so it would seem the valve body has the calcium
      > deposit or the o-ring has a break or damage.
      Try polishing the hot & cold water inlets with brass wire wheel brush attachment on a Dremel tool. Use a brass wheel because a steel wire will scratch the shower valve body. David said Danco waterproof plumbing grease solved his problem.

  14. Rajan Anand July 26, 2015 at 9:58 am - Reply


    Thanks for the site. I have a Lewiston 14404 which leaks after the rp19804 replacement. You had mentioned the o ring seating with the brass bonnet. I did not feel that bottoming out but the leak is from the spout so I don’t think that o ring is the problem but the ones on the spouts?

    • Bob Jackson July 26, 2015 at 12:07 pm - Reply

      The most likely cause for a leak after replacing the shower valve cartridge is one of the small O-rings on the lower housing isn’t sealing properly.

      If the inside surface of the shower valve body hot & cold water inlets is rough with mineral deposits/rust and you have to really force the cartridge into the valve body, the small rubber O-rings can roll, twist and maybe tear. O-rings are designed to be a bit “loose” – the water pressure will squeeze the O-ring into an oval shape for a watertight seal whereas crushed and pinched O-rings won’t seal. Polish the valve body inlets and try the Danco waterproof grease as described in my last reply.

      Please write back with what you did to fix the leak.


      Also take care to insert the shower cartridge straight into the valve body because twisting the cartridge can cause the upper and lower housing to separate.

  15. Rajan Anand July 26, 2015 at 6:08 pm - Reply

    Happy to report that a light polishing with the copper brush you used, about $10 from HD, and silicone grease made the cartridge insertion almost effortless in comparison to the cartridge before.

    However it is not a definitive result as I also used a new cartridge. So perhaps the cartridge is defective. If I have more time I will try the 1st one and try it in the polished seats.

  16. Rajan Anand July 27, 2015 at 12:00 pm - Reply

    Wanted to add Delta rep suggests to flush valve with no cartridge with full force of water pressure for 30 seconds with no deflection! Seems to be dangerous and has a potential to cause more problems.

  17. Shorty September 4, 2015 at 2:30 pm - Reply

    I have a Delta 1400 series shower fawcet. Over the last few months the hot water is getting less and less now there is hardly any hot water coming out at all. I have checked the water setting and it is set at the hottest temp. What is the problem.

    • Bob Jackson September 5, 2015 at 7:20 pm - Reply

      Maybe something is broken or worn out inside the shower valve? Try replacing it.

  18. Leif January 13, 2016 at 3:24 pm - Reply

    I have a Delta 1300/1400 shower faucet that was leaking. After finally going through many steps to remove parts that were stuck on, I finally got the old cartridge out. I have secured a brand new one (with some silicone grease on the o-ring) with a brand new bonnet nut, which I greased the threads of. When I turned on the water and turned the shower on, there is a leak around the bonnet.

    After turning the water off and taking the bonnet nut back off, it looks like I accidentally cut clear through the part of the bonnet when I was having to cut off the bonnet nut. While I have the water off, I am soaking the inside of the faucet assembly where the cartridge goes with a towel dipped in CLR, as you suggested above in the hopes that maybe it just needs to be cleaned in order for the seal to form properly.

    If it doesn’t work, is it likely that, since I cut through the pipe a bit with a dremmel tool that I will need someone to replace that whole piece of the assembly? Thanks for your help!

    • Bob Jackson January 13, 2016 at 6:42 pm - Reply

      > I accidentally cut clear through the part of the bonnet
      > when I was having to cut off the bonnet nut.
      Oh, that is bad! How deep is the cut in the shower valve body?

      The proper way to saw off a frozen nut is to saw shallow notches then pry open the nut as I did in How to Replace a Leaky Toilet Water Shutoff Valve. This method avoids cutting the shower valve body and threads.

      The permanent fix is to replace the shower valve body. Best call a professional plumber because it requires soldering pipe joints with a torch in tight spaces.

      Depending on how wide and long the saw notch is in the shower valve body & threads, you might get by with wrapping the threads with yellow PFTE plumber’s tape to seal the cut. Yellow plumber’s tape is normally used on natural gas lines but it’s thicker than white plumber’s tape used for water pipes. Hopefully the thicker yellow tape will seal the cut.

  19. Jack March 24, 2016 at 10:43 pm - Reply

    Thanks for the details info. It is very helpful. I found it much easier to remove the nut using a strap wrench listed on the ad in this Web page. It is much easier than using 2 channel lock pliers.

  20. Ruth May 24, 2016 at 2:38 pm - Reply

    Bob, I found your video helpful… however, I only was able to remove the front half of cartridge…no amount of tugging will budge the blue end… bonnet cane off nicely with strap wrench /WD 40 …I just soaked it with white vinegar hoping to loosen…any suggestions would be helpful. I’m so near done with this, have new cartridge.

  21. Johnny March 30, 2017 at 5:50 pm - Reply

    Thanks you so much for your guide. I got exactly same thing and this one help me so much.

  22. GaryBob July 11, 2017 at 7:27 am - Reply

    Your post gave me the courage to keep attacking. but here is what I had to do.

    I cut away at the plastic with a dremel. Pulled plastic pieces out with pliers.
    I particularly worked on the plastic that was in contact wit the brass housing, being careful to not damage the brass. Removed every bit of plastic I could, to expose the metal inards.
    Then I used one of the holes in the metal as a starting point and drilled it out, using successively larger drill bits. I broke at least 3 bits. As the metal weakened, I used a screw driver to pry the metal piece out. Still not easy. Then there was the back half of the plastic which still took some significant pulling with pliers to remove.

    Took about an hour, but I got it out.

  23. Ray Sliva November 27, 2017 at 2:50 pm - Reply

    I have a stall shower with a Delta faucet that has a brass cartridge. It must have been manufactured before 2000. Will the replacement cartridge #RP19804 work or should I keep looking?

    • Bob Jackson November 27, 2017 at 5:03 pm - Reply

      If you’ve already taken out the old cartridge, compare it with the models available at the home improvement store. Or contact Delta Faucet Customer Service for help identifying it and if a replacement is available.

  24. Vic potocki February 21, 2018 at 8:29 pm - Reply

    I have a pre 2006 13/1400 series Delta faucet. The bonnet nut won’t break loose (tried break free, vinegar and water and pipe wrenches) hate to cut bonnet, may damage housing? Has anyone tried applying heat (small torch)? Any other ideas?
    Vic Potocki

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