How to replace a built-in oven fan step by step instructions.
The cooling fan on my 10 year old General Electric (GE) Wall Oven started making a loud and annoying rattling sound when the oven is hot and the fan turns on. I suspected the fan motor bearings were going bad. I ordered an original GE replacement part online and was pleased the oven repair was an easy job.
How to Order an Oven Fan Repair Part
The electric oven model number is required to look up the fan replacement part. The model and serial plate for my GE TrueTemp Built-In Oven is located on the oven chassis inside the lower door:
The GE wall oven model and serial number plate:
The GE wall oven model number is JTP27B0A1BB. This tells me the GE oven is a series JTP27. I discovered that the base model number as indexed by replacement parts dealers doesn’t include the zero (0) and is: JTP27BA1BB
I ordered the new oven fan from AppliancePartsPros.com – Part Photos & Diagrams. Live Help. Same Day Shipping. Return Any Part. I quickly located the repair fan part for my oven by:
- Entering the JTP27BA1BB model number in the “Find Your Parts” search box.
- Clicking on the Control Panel Parts diagram.
- Identify the fan in the parts diagram (#32 in my case).
- Scroll down the parts list to the #32 fan assembly.
- Click and view the part photo and description.
- Buy the part.
I received an order confirmation email followed by a shipping confirmation with FedEx tracking number. The fan arrived in 3 days via FedEx with standard shipping. The shipment was over the Thanksgiving holiday and it might have arrived sooner otherwise.
This is the old and new GE Wall Oven Fan Assembly Part Number WB26K5061. The new fan is GE Genuine Replacement Part and identical to the old fan:
The repair part cost about $95 with shipping charges. Fixing the oven is way less expensive compared to buying a new double oven for $1300 or more!
How to Replace a Built-In Oven Fan
Remove the Oven Control Panel
The control panel on my GE TrueTemp wall oven is held in place by the three 1/4 inch hex head sheet metal screws along the bottom of the panel:
Shutoff the Electricity
The electric wall oven is powered by two 40 Amp circuit breakers at 240 volts. Shutoff the electricity at the circuit breaker panel or fuse box before proceeding to prevent electric shock, burns, injury and/or death. If you are unsure or uncomfortable working with electricity, please hire a professional appliance repairman.
Notice the electronic control panel display is blank and the oven light is Off with the door open to indicate the electricity is shutoff. I also tried turning on the oven to be extra sure.
Remove the three control panel screws with a small ratchet wrench and 1/4 inch socket:
The control panel screws with the socket wrench. The wrench extension bar will be needed to reach the fan mounting screws in back of the oven in the following steps.
The ends of the oven control panel have plastic tabs that slide in the sheet metal chassis. Lift the control up a 1/2 inch or so and carefully tip it over and outward. Take care not to touch the electrical wiring and components in case there are stray voltages present.
The control panel is fairly light and I found the many wiring harnesses were sufficient to support the panel. The oven door can be partially closed to let the panel rest on the door.
Remove the Oven Cooling Fan
There’s the culprit! The noisy oven cooling fan is clearly visible at the back of the control panel housing:
Notice the folded paper oven wiring diagram at the far left side of the above photo. It obviously doesn’t get very hot in there.
Closeup of the old and noisy oven fan. Be sure to note the fan orientation, wire colors and motor connections:
Non-Contact Voltage Tester
I’m very cautious when working with electricity and will verify the oven wiring has no dangerous voltages before touching the oven wiring. I checked the non-contact voltage tester was working with good batteries on a live outlet. The red light flashes and the tester beeps indicating voltage is present:
Before touching the oven wiring with my bare hands, I checked for dangerous voltages at all exposed wiring terminals including the fan motor connections. (You’ll literally be up to your elbows inside the oven control housing.) The non-contact voltage tester was silent indicating the electricity is shutoff:
The 1/4″ socket and wrench extension is required to reach the four fan motor mounting screws. The screws came out with no problem. The fan power wires are push-on blade style. Be careful to pull only on the terminal blade, do not pull on the wires. The fit was quite snug.
The new oven fan is installed in Built-In Oven Fan Repair.
Thanks for reading,