Electrical Outlets: Side Wire versus Back Wire

By |Last updated on |Outlets|29 Comments

This article compares the pros and cons of different methods of how to wire an electrical outlet, which are:

  1. Side wiring using the side terminal screws.
  2. Back wiring using the Leviton Quickwire™ push-in feature, colloquially referred to as “backstab”.
  3. Back wiring using the screw-and-clamp system.

Leviton Residential & Industrial Grade Outlets

The two electrical receptacles examined are the Leviton 5230-WCP Residential Grade outlet that sells for around 60 cents and the Leviton 5252-W Industrial Grade (also called “Prograde”) outlet which retails for about $5.50. Both outlets are rated for 15 AMPs and 125 volts.

Leviton Electrical Receptacles: Model 5320-WCP and 5252-W

Don’t be mislead by the “industrial” or “professional” grade label because the Leviton 5252 series are perfectly suitable for residential use, especially in frequently used locations in the home. Which receptacle you choose is mainly a budget issue. Remember, most houses are built by the low bidder!

Electrical Outlets: Side Wire versus Back Wire

The Leviton residential and industrial grade outlets may be wired in three different configurations as illustrated in this photo:

Electrical Outlet Wiring: Back wire, Side wire and Quickwire™ (Backstab)

The Leviton 5230 residential grade outlet (left pair in the photo above) supports:

  • Side wiring via the side screw terminals.
  • Back wiring via the Quickwire™ push-in (screwless push-in terminal), which accepts 14 gauge (NM-B 14/2) wire only. This wiring method is informally known as “backstabbing”.

The Leviton 5252 industrial grade outlet can be:

  • Side wired via the side screw terminals
  • Back wired using the screw and clamp system. Underwriter’s Labs refers to this as a “screw-actuated clamp”.

What’s the difference between the wiring methods and why would anyone care? Let’s take a look!

Side Wiring an Electrical Outlet

To side wire and electrical outlet, the wire is stripped, looped around the side screw and the screw is tightened down on the wire. Side wiring is a secure, reliable and widely employed technique. Side wiring is limited to a single conductor (wire) per screw terminal. Side wiring is the done the same way for both the residential and industrial grade outlets.

Back Wiring: Differences between Residential and Industrial Grade Outlets

Let’s take a look inside the Leviton residential- and industrial grade electrical outlets for significant differences between the back wiring mechanisms of each:

  • The residential outlet (left side) uses a flat spring clamp to capture a 14 gauge only (NM-B 14/2) wire which is pushed in from the back.
  • The industrial grade outlet (right side) uses a screw-and-clamp to capture a 10 to 14 gauge wire inserted in the back.

Back Wiring Outlets: Leviton Quickwire™ versus Screw & Clamp

Here’s another look at the Quickwire spring tab terminals compared to the industrial grade screw-and-clamp system. The sturdiness of the two is mechanisms is quite obvious!

Leviton Quickwire™ versus Screw & Clamp Electrical Outlet Terminals

The industrial grade outlet is built heavier featuring triple-wipe contacts versus the double-wipe contacts on the residential outlet. The triple-wipe contacts hold a plug more securely and are less prone to wearing out.

Back Wiring using the Leviton Quickwire™ Method

Leviton’s Quickwire push-in method, also known as “backstab”, while being simple and fast to wire, is frequently criticized in the electrical trade as being inferior to side wiring because the flat spring only makes contact with the wire at the edge and allows the wire to rotate and/or wiggle. The movement can build up over time as plugs are inserted and removed from the outlet, weakening the connection and possibly coming loose. Loose connections can cause arcing, excessive heating and interrupt power to the outlet. How many outlets do you have in your house that press inward as you plug something in because the wall box was poorly installed? The outlet isn’t at fault, but shoddy workmanship mounting the wall box aggravates the problem.

Electrical Outlet Back Wiring: Leviton Quickwire™ (backstab) Closeup

The Quickwire outlet has a small rectangular hole in the back to insert the tip of a screw driver to release the wire. I’ve found from personal experience the flat spring noticeably weakens when the wire is released and therefore do not recommend reusing the Quickwire method if the wire is ever removed. Best to side wire the outlet instead. The Quickwire hole on the back only accepts a 14 gauge wire because a thicker 12 gauge wire tends to open the spring clamp, causing loose a connection if a thinner 14 gauge were inserted later.

Why would anyone Quickwire an outlet? It’s simple and fast. If time is money and the electrical contractor is squeezing every penny (remember the job went to the low bidder), then backstabbing the wires would be attractive.

Back Wiring: Leviton Screw & Clamp Method

Back wiring the Leviton 5252 series industrial grade electrical outlet is a whole different ballgame compared to the residential grade Quickwire push-in (backstab) system.

The 5252 industrial grade outlets use a screw-and-clamp mechanism which very securely holds the wire in place and equals the reliability of side wiring. Notice in the closeup below how the screw clamp makes positive contact with the wire with a large conductive surface. The clamp also has serrations to bite into the wire for extra holding power. The wire cannot rotate or wiggle.

Electrical Outlet Back Wiring: Screw and Clamp System Closeup

I prefer back wiring with the screw and clamp system because it’s as secure as side wiring, while being simpler and faster.

In my opinion:

  1. Side wiring is always good.
  2. Quickwire push-in (backstab) should be avoided.
  3. Back wiring with the screw and clamp system is my preference.

Note that all three receptacle wiring methods are listed by Underwriter’s Labs. Check with your local building department if in doubt to comply with all electrical codes.

Hope this helps,
Bob Jackson

Copyright © 2018 HandymanHowTo.com   Reproduction strictly prohibited.


  1. R. Work September 19, 2011 at 5:15 pm - Reply

    good article. question. when you back wire an outlet, can you use both the backwire and side wire on the same outlet?

    • Bob Jackson September 20, 2011 at 5:18 pm - Reply

      You can back wire and side wire if it’s a Push-in (backstab) receptacle such as the Leviton 5320 residential grade model because the back wire spring-clamp mechanism is independent of the side screws.

      For a screw & clamp style receptacle such as the Leviton 5252-W Industrial Grade model, the side screw also actuates the back wire clamp. If this receptacle is both back and side wired, the wires are drawn against the copper side plate between the clamp and screw head for a secure connection. I would be careful to only use wire of the same gauge (size) if using both back wire terminals on the same screw to ensure the clamping force is equal across the two back wires. Double check the security of your wiring connections if going with this option.

      See “UL 498 Attachment Plugs and Receptacles” for the technical details.

      If you have so many wires that you need both the side- and back wire connections, consider the parallel wiring method using pigtails about 3/4 ways down the page in this article: Series versus Parallel Electrical Outlet Wiring.

  2. A Harpster October 4, 2011 at 8:43 am - Reply

    Thank you for a most informative article. From it, I was able to identify the existing connection. More importantly, I learned how to get the back-stabbed wires out! Other articles I read told how to put a receptacle in, but not how to remove the back-stabbed wires. I will note that, in this case, the old wires seemed quite firmly set; I could not get them to move although I was trying to. I will use the side screws on the replacement.

  3. Joe Craig November 12, 2011 at 12:44 am - Reply

    Thanks Bob
    You cleared up my confusion over Backwire versus Sidewire nicely.

  4. Celeste January 3, 2014 at 12:29 pm - Reply

    Hey there just wanted to give you a brief heads
    up and let you know a few of the pictures aren’t loading correctly.
    I’m not sure why but I think its a linking issue. I’ve tried it in two
    different internet browsers and both show the same outcome.

  5. Ralph D Jeffords March 9, 2014 at 3:25 pm - Reply

    I just got through troubleshooting a partially dead circuit in my residence. The house was built about 1972 in Centreville VA. Two outlets on this 20 amp circuit were hot and three were dead. In checking the hot outlet closest to a dead one, a neutral wire (obviously the feed-through) popped out of one of the backstab holes and I noted that it had heated up for about 3″ at the end, and that plastic around the backstab hole was disintegrating from the heat. Evidently the wire was either not properly pushed into the backstab hole or the connection disintegrated over time. It seems that all outlets in the house were originally installed “quick and dirty” with the backstab method, even the 20 amp circuits. You mentioned that backstab is intended only for 14 guage (15 amp) circuits. Would you advise replacing all outlets (but especially the 20 amp ones) with sidewired or screw and clamp backwired outlets? By the way, excellent article for the DIYer!

    • Bob Jackson March 9, 2014 at 4:43 pm - Reply

      > Would you advise replacing all outlets (but especially the 20 amp ones) with
      > sidewired or screw and clamp backwired outlets?
      Hi Ralph,
      That’s a two-part question:
      1 – Quality or grade of outlet?
      2 – Sidewire vs backwire?

      Answer #1 – Quality or grade of Electrical Outlet:
      I don’t like the inexpensive residenetial grade outlets that cost as of this writing about 68 cents each due to the lower durability construction. Home builders install these cheap outlets to maximize profit and most people aren’t aware of the difference compared to the professional grade outlet that costs 9 times more at ~$6 per outlet. The 68 cent outlet wears out quickly in high use areas and won’t hold a plug securely.

      The cost savings to hire an electrician to replace an outlet will run $130 to $180 according to this source, so the home builder is passing the total cost of ownership to the homeowner along with risks of arcing/fire due worn out outlets. Consider that if a house has 50 outlets the difference in cost for professional grade outlet is about $265. If an electrician is hired to replace two outlets at $130 each the total is $260 in repairs. That just about erases any cost savings using residential grade (cheap) outlets. With the popularity of consumer electronics outlets are being used much more and there are often not enough outlets where needed. I’m not writing this so much for you Ralph because you’re a conscientious homeowner, but others who read this.

      Answer #2 – Sidewire vs Backwire Screw & Clamp
      Sidewiring by wrapping the wire around the terminal screw in a closed loop and tightening the screw is a secure and durable connection with a large contact area between the wire and outlet. However, it’s slower and requires attention make the loop just right and pinch it closed around the screw with needle nose pliers.

      I prefer the Leviton 5252 professional grade outlet that feature the backwire screw & clamp system. Why? It’s easy to wire and very secure also with a large contact area. It also makes removing the outlet quick and simple by loosening the clamp screw and pulling the wire straight out. Compare to unwiring a sidewired outlet – where you have to bend the wire loop open which stresses the wire. Not good if you’re making wiring rearrangements and need to make a pigtail connection.

      So the main thing is buy the high quality professional grade outlets. I prefer the screw & clamp backwire method but sidewiring is also fine.

      These related projects may be helpful which use the Leviton 5252 Prograde outlet with the backwire screw & clamp method:
      * How to Replace a Worn-Out Electrical Outlet
      * How to Repair a Shorted Electrical Outlet
      * How to Wire an Attic Electrical Outlet and Light

      Sometimes a circuit extension is needed where it’s not possible to fish wire through the walls. Wiremold surface raceways and boxes are a great way to extend power from an existing outlet.

      Centreville, VA – I always look forward to breakfast at Anitas Mexican restaurant when I’m in town. OK it’s actually a mile away in Chantilly.

      Take care,

  6. Jim Samuels May 8, 2014 at 8:46 am - Reply

    Hi Bob, great article and the photos clearly show the difference between the two styles. I have replaced four defective “Push-IN” style duplex outlets in three different residences. In all cases the stamping and forming of the brass mechanism to retain the wire contained micro fractures that over time ( est. 20 years ) grew to the point where it could no longer grip the wire sufficiently and overheating resulted. Also, these outlets do not actually need to be used to develop this condition. That is, when daisy chaining a branch circuit, the current running through an unused outlet will generate heat causing expansion. Once the load is removed you get cooling and thus cycles of expansion/contraction occur which exacerbates the problem. One of the defective outlets I replaced was unused, behind furniture in a room.

    I suspect given the prevalence of these inexpensive outlets that many a household electrical fire resulted from these style outlets. I am in the process of buying about 40 of the Leviton 5252 series to replace the outlets in my girlfriend’s home, for her safety and my peace of mind. thanks again for a great article!

    • Bob Jackson May 8, 2014 at 8:15 pm - Reply

      Hi Jim,
      Oh my! Your suspicions are correct about backstab outlet wiring causing overheating and fires!

      Now I’m going to be pulling all my wall switches and outlets to check and replace them with screw terminal side wire or screw-and-clamp back wire. (Light switches don’t support the screw-and-clamp back wire option, so I’ll side wire those.)

      Who knows what wiring errors I’ll find?

      The problems with backstab wiring are:
      * Small contact area and pressure between the wire conductor and outlet retention spring.
      * The retention spring is weakened if the wire is removed.

      Of interest are several Authorities Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) have forbidden backstab wiring (a.k.a. back-stab, backstabbing or quick stab wiring) in local amendments to the National Electrical Code (NEC). Examples:

      * City of La Porte, TX – page 1:

      Effective March 10, 2007, all electrical devices (including but not limited to outlets and switches) shall be installed with the screw-wrap or approved screw clamp installation.
      Back or quick stab installation is prohibited.

      * City of Warrenville, IL – page 3:

      7.d. Wires terminate at receptacles or switches shall be under the screw of the device. Backstabbing shall not be permitted.

      A Google search for “backstab wall outlets overheating” shows numerous instances of this happening. Several choice items:
      * Have you been “backstabbed”? by Dayton Ohio Infrared Inspections & Thermal Imaging.

      * FIRE! Electrical fires caused by backstab outlets by InspectionNews

      Thank you for bringing this to my attention!

  7. Harry McMackin January 11, 2015 at 7:03 pm - Reply

    One mistake will not kill you. It takes a chain of mistakes. I live in an apartment house where pretty much every outlet is quickwired. However, every outlet is in a metal box with metal conduit. I do believe the time will come when these outlets will get hot enough to melt or have burned looking marks on them. Yet because of the safety of the metal surroundings, I do not believe a fire will start which will spread. So the lesson is to have several layers of safety.

  8. Sergio Cadenas October 14, 2015 at 4:08 pm - Reply

    Before posing the following question here, I surfed everywhere on the web for an answer but couldn’t find one. Does anyone recommend replacing backstab outlets even if they were only connected using sidewire screw method on them? In other words do they still pose a hazard when placed in production due to the small contact area outlet retention spring and its subsequent high resistance even without any wires inserted into the quickwire holes? I’ve got a ton of those cheap Leviton outlets in my house from Home Deport all side wired but with the quickwire feature holes built into them. If they’re still fire hazards, I’ll can easily go to the Home Depot and replace them with the industrial grade Leviton outlets without the quickwire/backstab feature.

    • Bob Jackson October 15, 2015 at 9:22 am - Reply

      Sidewired outlets where the wire is wrapped around the screw doesn’t present a hazard, so there’s no reason to proactively replace the outlets.

      The problem is the backstab wiring method and not with the outlet itself.

      • Ted September 3, 2016 at 3:06 pm - Reply

        Bob, I know I’m ten months late here, but so as to not confuse Sergio and others, I think you meant to say “there’s NO reason to proactively replace the outlets.”

        • Bob Jackson September 4, 2016 at 10:06 am - Reply

          I corrected my original comment to include the word “no”. Thanks!

  9. angela sheppard November 16, 2015 at 7:19 pm - Reply

    So I haven’t been able to figure out why half of the outlets and lights/switches dont work in the house I just moved into. I found that a breaker kept tripping so I changed it out. No fix. I’ve begun to check the outlets on this line and found a strange connection in one of the outlets.
    There are three sets of wires leading into the outlet box.
    All three of the grounds have been connected with a clamp(pigtail?) To make one ground attach to the outlet.
    Two of the white are side wired(one to each screw) with the tab still in place and the third white is backstabbed.
    It is the same with the hot/black wires.
    When I plug in the tester however it lights up that the connection is correct?
    Could this be causing my problem?
    If so…how on earth do you even fix this?!
    Thanks so much,

    • Bob Jackson November 16, 2015 at 9:28 pm - Reply

      > All three of the grounds have been connected with a clamp(pigtail?)
      > To make one ground attach to the outlet.
      That would be a copper crimp sleeve. I don’t like crimp sleeves because the electrician invariably cuts off one or two of the ground wires at the sleeve making it impossible to wire a proper pigtail with wire nut on all ground wires. My outlets have a ground wire crimp sleeve as seen in this photo. Electricians like crimp sleeves because they’re quick and time is money. But the ground wire crimp sleeve probably isn’t the problem.

      As for backstab wired outlets, I always replace those because IMHO backstab connections are not durable.

      > So I haven’t been able to figure out why half of the
      > outlets and lights/switches dont work in the house I just moved into.
      Did you buy or rent the house? Did you buy the house “as-is”? If not, was there a home inspection and report prior to the purchase? The home inspector should’ve written up such an obvious problem. Call the realtor and home inspector to explain what’s going on and ask them to resolve it. If renting, it’s an issue for the landlord to resolve.

      For now – let’s assume it’s up to you to fix it.

      > I found that a breaker kept tripping so I changed it out.
      Circuit breakers rarely fail and it’s telling you there’s an overload condition, caused by either too much load on the circuit or a short circuit. Is the breaker tripping randomly or only under certain conditions? If you can make the breaker trip by turning on a light switch, jiggling a plug in an outlet or other action that narrows the troubleshooting.

      > There are three sets of wires leading into the outlet box.
      The three sets of NM-B 14/2 cables (3 black/hot wires, 3 white/neutral wires and 3 bare copper ground wires) tells me the outlet is wired in series with a branch circuit takeoff like the outlet on the far left in this diagram. The branch circuit on my outlet went to the closet light but we don’t know what your branch circuit is connected to.

      See How to Repair a Shorted Electrical Outlet for instructions on tracing the outlet wires and replacing the outlet with a heavy duty Leviton 5252. You can ignore the burnt wire insulation repair steps.

      Let me know what happens and we can go from there.


  10. Roger Feeley December 4, 2015 at 4:43 pm - Reply

    Great article! I just disassembled my basement shop of 20 years. I tore out about 40 duplex receptacles. About half were for lighting and had never seen much repetitive use. The other half were for machines of one sort or another. The big ones like the table saw were hard wired but the grinders and general purpose outlets were just outlets. Many of these were back-stabbed and you would be amazed at how many times the wire just sort of fell out. I’m amazed that I didn’t have arcing of some sort.

    I will be building a new shop in about a year and I will put the Leviton 5252 on my wish list.

  11. Shaun Cason January 2, 2016 at 3:58 am - Reply

    Hi Bob

    Just wanted to say “thank you” for well written, easy to understand article. I learned a great from this and will be replacing probably ALL the outlets in my home as I’m sure if one has been backstabbed (as I’ve already found), it’s a pretty sure bet they all were. As you’ve said, time is money, but you can’t put a price on safety. Thanks again and Happy New Year!

  12. chris April 4, 2016 at 9:08 pm - Reply

    what about using a back wired ( with a screw and clamp) where one wire is 12g and he other is 14g sharing the same clamp? It’s a neutral terminal for a GE smart switch and the wires are neutral?

    • Bob Jackson April 5, 2016 at 7:55 am - Reply

      The Leviton 5252 receptacle has a total of 8 backwire holes, 4 per side for hot and neutral at 2 holes per screw & clamp. While I don’t see anything in the 5252 data sheet forbidding mixing wire gauges under the same clamp I wouldn’t do it. Better to place the 12 gauge wires under one clamp and the 14 gauge wires under the 2nd clamp. The 4 backwire holes & clamps on each side are bridged internally for continuity.

      > It’s a neutral terminal for a GE smart switch and
      > the wires are neutral?
      Not exactly sure what you mean here. Are the switch wires 14 gauge and line-side receptacle wires 12 gauge? If so, put the switch wires under one screw & clamp and the 12 gauge line-side wires under the other clamp. If you have a lot of wires consider making pigtail connections.

  13. Duane May 12, 2016 at 2:39 pm - Reply

    Have 2 questions. I have a 30 amp breaker with 20 amp receptacles. Is that ok? Next I replaced two of my garage receptacles with the anchor hole type just in case I might need To use a side wired device. If your ok with this, how do I remove the block so I can use the plug? Hopefully your not laughing to much.

    • Bob Jackson May 12, 2016 at 5:29 pm - Reply

      You must use 12 gauge NMB-12/2 electrical cable which is rated for 20 AMPs with 20 AMP receptacles. The 30 AMP breaker is fine but remember it’ll trip if the total load on the circuit across all receptacles exceeds 30 AMPs.

      > receptacles with the anchor hole type
      I think you’re referring to the NEMA 5-20R T-slot receptacle. That’s good for greater plug compatibility.

      > how do I remove the block so I can use the plug?
      Did you buy a tamper-resistant receptacle? The spring-loaded shutter can be stiff on new receptacles and you may have to push the plug in fairly hard to open it. Wiggling the plug may help.

  14. Sam January 26, 2017 at 7:04 pm - Reply

    Have one question. If outlets are back-wired and arc-fault breakers are used on the circuit. Do they still pose a danger or will breaker trip due to loose wire.

  15. Craig Kaiser February 26, 2017 at 1:18 pm - Reply

    Hi Bob,

    Thanks for writing such clear articles with images and diagrams that illustrate the key details. It is frustrating from a prosumer vantage point to even identify the products that are available in order to make an informed choice between price and features. The terminology and product descriptions, even directly from vendors, are often so inconsistent that cross-comparing the products can be almost impossible.

    Every product is described to be “the best” by not mentioning the shortcomings of the lesser models compared to features of higher-end models. Even for a single product, the prices from various suppliers vary so widely that it is hard to differentiate between paying for a better product and price gouging on a similar, but lesser, model. A picture and a part number are worth a thousand words.

    Until recently, I had never seen the Commercial version of the Leviton Decora series outlets. Terms change. I think perhaps what is now Commercial (Decora Plus?) was once called Pro Series for Leviton’s standard outlets.

    Each time I move to a new home, I take another look at the current-day products and try to make new best choices for that home as I make upgrades. Replacing outlets, switches and fixtures has been a part of making each new home my own. I do it to correct deficits such as worn-out outlets, missing or failed GFCI outlets, inefficient rheostat dimmers and multi-bulb fixtures. I also do it to make aesthetic choices such as color, faceplates, and even the sound of throwing a switch.

    Many new devices, such as combined dimmer and variable-speed fan controls, come in the Decora rectangular faceplate design. Aesthetically, I’ve chosen the Decora faceplate for all of my switches and outlets. I understand that this choice inflates the cost of every “standard” outlet and switch. Paying more for pure appearance is a personal choice and I understand anyone who prefers to save the added cost of pure cosmetics.

    Not paying more for a true improvement in quality, reliability and safety, is another thing. I wish I had known that the Commercial version of the Decora line existed for my prior homes. Whether the labor is my own or I pay an electrician, the cost of human effort drowns out the cost of the devices themselves, I want to know that when the job is done, it has been done right for the long term.

    I don’t know about elsewhere, but local building codes here in Michigan now also require outlets to be Tamper Resistant. This comes with yet another bump in cost.

    Please correct me if I am wrong, but I think the current Commercial Leviton Decora Tamper Resistant product that best compares to this article might be TDR15. One vendor describes is as “Leviton Commercial Decora Plus Tamper Resistant Duplex Receptacle Outlet 15A 125V”. As of February 2017, said vendor currently sells this outlet online for $7 each. I’ve seen the same product listed as high as $14. The non-Tamper Resistant model, 16252, is less than half that price at $3.

    The Residential Leviton Decora Tamper Resistant 15A outlets (model T5325) are about $2 each at the local big box store in quantities of ten. The standard face Tamper Resistant (model T5320) outlets are about $1 each at the local big box store in quantities of ten.

    So, the DIY’er might look at replacing 30 outlets, ignore the cost of their own time, and compare 30 x $1 = $30 for Residential grade standard outlets to 30 x $7 = $210 for Commercial grade Decora outlets and “see” a savings of $180 on the project. The project seems to be six times more expensive if you ignore how much more effort it takes to carefully side wire the less-expensive outlets.

    If you consider having an electrician install your outlets in a new or existing home, you will be paying on the order of $100 per outlet. 30 x $100 = $3,000. Asking that electrician to install outlets that cost $6 more increases that cost to 30 x $106 = $3,180. Now how much more expensive is it to have the better product installed? Six percent.

    So, six percent or six hundred percent… which is it? Either way, the quality of the result is night-and-day different in terms of reliable mechanical connections to both the wall wiring and at the plug.

    If you have to pay an electrician to replace just one or two of those outlets, your “savings” are gone. If you have to revisit your outlets and convert them from backstab to side wired, or replace them entirely, you’re doing the entire project again. And if one of those backstabbed outlets fails catastrophically and sets your home on fire, you may have lost it all.

    Are you concerned that your electrician will use backstab installation? Have them install an outlet that cannot be wired backstab. Ask for a per-outlet price with the hardware supplied by you, or have the quote explicitly identify the model of the outlets that will be used and how they will be mechanically wired.

    • Bob Jackson February 26, 2017 at 2:28 pm - Reply

      The Leviton Decora Tamper-Resistant TDR15-W supports screw & clamp back-wiring.

      I installed Decora switches in the bathroom using the screw & clamp wiring method.

  16. Attila November 11, 2017 at 12:54 pm - Reply


    What is the difference between Leviton 5320 WCP and Leviton 5320 CP? In my home I have the same version you are showing on the pictures, but the only version I found in the stores or the internet is the CP. What does WCP or CP stand for? I couldn’t find any information on this on the internet. The receptacle I have does not seem to hold the wires and they got shorted. I never changed them before and this article and your other article the “How to Repair a Shorted Electrical Outlet” helped me a great deal. Thank you very much. Attila

    • Bob Jackson November 11, 2017 at 2:31 pm - Reply

      The “W” in WCP is the color code for White plastic. The CP model is Brown. Otherwise, both are the outlets have identical construction.

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